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[TV static drones]
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[bright tone]
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Downloaded from
YTS.MX
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Official YIFY movies site:
YTS.MX
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[crunching footsteps]
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[feet scraping]
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[suspenseful orchestral music]
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♪ ♪
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Climbing's always
been my first love.
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[hyperventilating and giggling]
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Sasha showing some finesse.
[cheers and applause]
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Since I was 16, I've been
in the limelight of climbing.
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No question, the best
female climber in our country.
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I love the winning.
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First place,
Sasha DiGiulian.
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People were like,
Sasha DiGiulian,
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this little kid
that's crushing everything.
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Every time I climb, it's like
you fall, you fall, you fall.
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Slam into the wall,
and it hurts.
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Kinda frustrated.
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♪ ♪
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I learned in order
to capitalize
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on your achievements,
you need to capture them.
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[upbeat music]
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Social media changed the game.
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This is Sasha DiGiulian
tuning in.
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It's like a level of intimacy
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that never existed
in climbing before.
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She changed
the face of climbing.
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[camera shutter clicking]
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The fact that
I'm marketable...
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Is my hair okay?
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Kind of not, but.
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Enables me to do what I do
and make a living off of it.
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Once you share yourself
with the world,
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people are going to have
a problem with you.
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But if you have haters,
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that's how you know
you made it.
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Her definition of success
is that she gets to the top.
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You have such
an incredible career.
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[cheers and applause]
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She's so polarizing.
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I don't know how much of Sasha
is a crafted public persona.
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[Sasha groans]
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She doesn't
look like a climber.
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Some people say, "Why are
you sexualizing the sport?"
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People criticize her and
call her dumb and anorexic.
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Sasha's story is amazing.
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That's why it's so frustrating
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when Sasha overhypes
some ascents.
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If you omit certain details,
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people are going
to be suspicious.
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It's bullshit.
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I just play the game.
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Okay, don't mess this up.
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You know what to do.
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[cheers and applause]
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Right, left, pull, foot up,
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push, push, push.
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Make it up there,
make it up there.
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[suspenseful ambient music]
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♪ ♪
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[birds singing]
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♪ ♪
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Very good.
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Whoo.
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Yes, summit.
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Our anchor.
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- Yeah.
- Nice.
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[both imitate explosion]
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And it's not dark.
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It's not dark.
Yeah.
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Only almost.
- Almost.
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No, we got time.
- Yeah.
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All right,
so I'm going to tie you in.
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Lynn started out as my idol,
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the woman that I grew up
with a poster of on my wall
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in my childhood bedroom.
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Yes, with one direction.
Here's the X, see?
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Then she became a friend...
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That's how I'm going
to tie in.
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And a mentor.
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- Tying to the end here.
- Yeah.
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As long as
we trust that one sling.
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We can have a backup, though.
- Yeah.
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Lynn did this epic feat
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of climbing the Nose
on El Cap.
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And the Nose had
never been done
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by a man or a woman before.
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She did it over four days.
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Then the next year,
she came back
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and did it in a single day.
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And then she made
this famous quip...
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Good setup.
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♪ ♪
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And I saw that as just--
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I want to do something
like that one day.
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- Hasta la vista.
- Whoo-hoo.
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It's going to be
an exciting rappel.
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Lynn comes from this
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traditional climbing background,
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grew up really
in the outdoor environment.
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And I grew up
climbing in a gym.
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I started climbing when
I was six years old.
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My brother had
a birthday party
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at a climbing gym
called Sportrock
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in Alexandria, Virginia.
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What I remember was
walking in,
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the gym smelling, like,
musty, dirty feet
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and a slight tinge of pizza.
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I really liked it.
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I kept going back in line
to have another turn.
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Sasha quickly progressed
from being
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a child who liked to climb
to being a competitor.
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What's your strategy today?
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Two things: to win
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and to climb as many races
I can so I get 1,000 bucks.
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She loved
the gym competitions.
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She excelled in them.
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It became obvious that
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she wanted to be serious
about that.
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[indistinct PA announcement]
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[cheers and applause]
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- I loved winning.
- Yeah!
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Winning my first
continental championships,
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winning my first nationals,
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it was, like,
the greatest feeling.
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I met Sasha when
she was, I think,
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like 14 or 15 years old.
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We both lived in D.C.
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and were climbing
in the same climbing gym.
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And she was the little squirt
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that was warming up
on my projects.
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[chuckles]
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Yeah, she definitely stood out.
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When Sasha was
building her career,
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she was a young, attractive,
blonde, blue-eyed girl
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doing some really cool things.
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She loves climbing,
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but she uses it
to make a living.
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It's impressive.
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- I want to see that logo.
- Oh, yeah.
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It's just bunched
on this side.
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So maybe just pull your
jacket down and fold it.
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Just curl it up or something.
- Oh, okay.
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Since I had achieved
at that point
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what I wanted to achieve
in indoor climbing
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and I started
using my winter breaks
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and summer breaks
to be outside on rock.
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[suspenseful music]
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I never kind of ventured into
this new world unknown before.
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[energetic ambient music]
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♪ ♪
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The following summer,
I did my first big wall
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with Edu Marin, who is a
professional Spanish climber.
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Bella Vista was classified
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as the hardest big wall
achieved by a woman.
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It was my first female ascent
of a big wall,
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proving to myself that
anything was possible.
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♪ ♪
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It's a serious endeavor
to climb a big wall,
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and it requires a lot
of technical knowledge
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and mental fortitude and then,
of course, the strength.
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Sport climbing is a very
individualistic pursuit.
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Big wall climbing
is about teamwork
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and about partnership.
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So it was a big transition
for Sasha
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because you can't do it
all by yourself anymore.
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And the list of things
that could go wrong...
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[chuckling]
Is pretty much infinite.
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[wind whistling]
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My next climb was the Eiger.
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The route that
I wanted to do was
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one of the hardest
established routes
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on the north face
of the Eiger,
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and it had never been done
by a woman before.
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[tense music]
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That was exciting to me.
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I wanted to do something
that was record-breaking.
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♪ ♪
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And I told my sponsors
about it
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and they were instantly
really excited
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and put in the resources to
filming and making it happen.
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♪ ♪
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I saw the climb that
I wanted to do
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on the north face of the Eiger
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as something that was
under the grade level
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that I climbed.
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I thought, like,
"What's the big deal?"
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There's a lot
to big wall climbing
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that you don't know
until you're out there.
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And all of it I was learning
while literally there.
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♪ ♪
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My climbing partner
was Carlo Traversi,
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and we were going
through these pockets
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of really bad weather,
running out of time,
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so we changed routes
to something easier.
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And it was still
a first female ascent.
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I was like, adjust course,
secure a summit.
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[suspenseful orchestral music]
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♪ ♪
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So all of a sudden,
I come back home
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and there's so much hype.
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Sasha DiGiulian
has just become
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the first woman to free-climb
the north face of the Eiger.
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The first woman ever
to scale the Murder Wall.
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Just days before
starting her senior year
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at Columbia University,
DiGiulian reached the summit.
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My proudest achievement
in my career yet.
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It's the hardest route
on the 5,000-foot north face,
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and DiGiulian has made
the first female ascent.
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My main focus in climbing--
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When you're trying to
make a living off your sport
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00:10:00,058 --> 00:10:03,311
and getting media attention,
you're not going to say no.
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00:10:03,311 --> 00:10:05,146
I've proven to myself that
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00:10:05,146 --> 00:10:08,358
something that I didn't know
was possible was possible.
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00:10:08,358 --> 00:10:10,318
Yes.
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00:10:10,318 --> 00:10:11,403
Whoo!
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00:10:11,403 --> 00:10:13,154
It makes your career grow.
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00:10:13,154 --> 00:10:16,074
But the climbing community
was basically like,
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00:10:16,074 --> 00:10:17,492
"What the fuck?"
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00:10:17,867 --> 00:10:20,245
[suspenseful music]
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00:10:20,245 --> 00:10:22,414
I feel like
every big thing she's done,
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there's always
the weird asterisk,
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00:10:24,833 --> 00:10:26,626
always weird rumors,
and maybe that's people hating.
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00:10:26,626 --> 00:10:27,961
Maybe that's people
being sexist.
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The toughest thing for me
about the criticism
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that I got from the Eiger
was that
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00:10:35,135 --> 00:10:37,679
it was actually
more grounded in fact.
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It wasn't that big of a feat.
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00:10:39,848 --> 00:10:42,392
Carlo Traversi,
my climbing partner,
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00:10:42,392 --> 00:10:44,811
was never mentioned
in the press.
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I was like this outsider
coming into this world
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that was highly protected
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00:10:49,983 --> 00:10:52,444
and all of a sudden,
getting a lot of attention
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00:10:52,444 --> 00:10:55,447
for something
that felt overhyped.
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00:10:55,447 --> 00:10:56,823
So all of this critique
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00:10:56,823 --> 00:11:00,035
made me want to just
keep making a bigger splash.
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00:11:00,035 --> 00:11:03,288
I just saw the negative
as like, watch me.
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00:11:03,288 --> 00:11:04,789
I'll keep going.
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00:11:04,789 --> 00:11:07,917
[dramatic percussive music]
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00:11:07,917 --> 00:11:12,380
♪ ♪
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00:11:12,380 --> 00:11:14,007
[camera shutter clicking]
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00:11:14,507 --> 00:11:15,550
[birds singing]
245
00:11:15,550 --> 00:11:17,635
Hello.
246
00:11:17,635 --> 00:11:19,304
How do you feel?
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00:11:19,304 --> 00:11:20,388
Not bad.
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00:11:20,388 --> 00:11:22,182
[wondrous ambient music]
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00:11:22,182 --> 00:11:23,683
I'm really competitive.
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Little bit sandy.
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00:11:25,435 --> 00:11:28,188
And I also love
feeling in control.
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♪ ♪
253
00:11:30,690 --> 00:11:33,818
What I love about climbing
is in many ways,
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I've always been in control
of my own success.
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00:11:37,113 --> 00:11:42,035
Like, what I get out of it
is up to me.
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00:11:42,035 --> 00:11:44,996
I was racking up first ascents
and first female ascents
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00:11:44,996 --> 00:11:47,499
with male
professional climbers.
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00:11:47,499 --> 00:11:48,708
And that's how
I've kind of grown
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00:11:48,708 --> 00:11:51,169
and expanded in my skill set.
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[panting]
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00:11:53,463 --> 00:11:56,341
We would push each other
really hard,
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00:11:56,341 --> 00:11:57,967
pushing my comfort zone.
263
00:11:57,967 --> 00:11:59,594
♪ ♪
264
00:11:59,594 --> 00:12:03,765
The spring of 2018, I set
out on this crazy objective
265
00:12:03,765 --> 00:12:07,977
of climbing three
of Canada's hardest big walls.
266
00:12:07,977 --> 00:12:11,314
But I broke up
with my climbing partner.
267
00:12:11,314 --> 00:12:13,650
Ah.
268
00:12:13,650 --> 00:12:15,652
And I ended up doing
it on my own
269
00:12:15,652 --> 00:12:17,946
with the support of Blairs.
270
00:12:17,946 --> 00:12:24,244
♪ ♪
271
00:12:24,244 --> 00:12:25,370
Whoo!
272
00:12:25,370 --> 00:12:27,455
After that, I was like,
"Whoa, I feel limitless."
273
00:12:27,455 --> 00:12:29,582
We did it!
274
00:12:29,582 --> 00:12:30,667
Yeah!
275
00:12:30,667 --> 00:12:32,627
I'd put to bed these whispers
276
00:12:32,627 --> 00:12:35,338
of me needing
a male climbing partner
277
00:12:35,338 --> 00:12:36,256
to help get up these walls.
278
00:12:36,256 --> 00:12:37,382
Oh, my God.
279
00:12:37,382 --> 00:12:39,259
Way to go, team!
280
00:12:39,259 --> 00:12:40,885
- Whoo-hoo!
- Whoo!
281
00:12:40,885 --> 00:12:42,303
It was very empowering
in the sense
282
00:12:42,303 --> 00:12:46,433
that I knew I had the skills
and the capacity
283
00:12:46,433 --> 00:12:50,395
to lead an all-female team
on an expedition.
284
00:12:50,395 --> 00:12:53,440
[birds singing]
285
00:12:55,442 --> 00:12:56,901
I guess, yeah.
286
00:12:56,901 --> 00:12:58,528
It was really cool to see
287
00:12:58,528 --> 00:13:00,238
Sash coming off
of the trilogy,
288
00:13:00,238 --> 00:13:03,033
and she really wanted
her next big expedition
289
00:13:03,033 --> 00:13:04,951
to be an all-female team.
290
00:13:04,951 --> 00:13:06,703
Tricams that Lynn gave me.
291
00:13:06,703 --> 00:13:08,246
Sash wants to prove
292
00:13:08,246 --> 00:13:10,123
that she's one of
the most successful
293
00:13:10,123 --> 00:13:13,001
female climbers in the world
and one of the most successful
294
00:13:13,001 --> 00:13:14,502
big wall female climbers
in the world,
295
00:13:14,502 --> 00:13:18,089
which is an even more rarefied
group of individuals.
296
00:13:20,759 --> 00:13:22,010
Okay.
297
00:13:22,010 --> 00:13:24,929
This is the climb
that we're trying.
298
00:13:24,929 --> 00:13:27,140
It's Leve Leve
by the Pou brothers.
299
00:13:27,140 --> 00:13:29,184
[soft upbeat percussive music]
300
00:13:29,184 --> 00:13:33,772
This is all super-vegetated
terrain.
301
00:13:33,772 --> 00:13:36,149
And the rock,
it's hard to tell
302
00:13:36,149 --> 00:13:39,694
how it is
since it's so overgrown.
303
00:13:39,694 --> 00:13:45,950
♪ ♪
304
00:13:45,950 --> 00:13:49,162
I decided
to self-fund the expedition.
305
00:13:49,162 --> 00:13:53,500
♪ ♪
306
00:13:53,500 --> 00:13:56,086
[indistinct chatter]
307
00:13:56,086 --> 00:13:57,212
♪ ♪
308
00:13:57,212 --> 00:13:59,589
The goal is to be
the first woman
309
00:13:59,589 --> 00:14:01,549
to climb a route up
Pico Cao Grande,
310
00:14:01,549 --> 00:14:05,136
which was the largest
volcanic plug in the world.
311
00:14:05,136 --> 00:14:07,055
♪ ♪
312
00:14:07,055 --> 00:14:10,100
I just wanted to go there
with a climbing partner
313
00:14:10,100 --> 00:14:12,352
that I felt comfortable with
and trusted.
314
00:14:12,352 --> 00:14:14,521
Oh, man.
315
00:14:14,521 --> 00:14:16,022
Holy epic-ness.
316
00:14:16,022 --> 00:14:18,483
And you're literally
entrusting your lives
317
00:14:18,483 --> 00:14:20,151
into each other's hands,
318
00:14:20,151 --> 00:14:23,655
and you're all working
together towards this goal.
319
00:14:25,782 --> 00:14:29,285
Oh, my God.
Like, it's like--it's there.
320
00:14:29,285 --> 00:14:30,578
It's so crazy.
- It's there. We're here.
321
00:14:30,578 --> 00:14:32,580
Like, we're looking
at this thing at a picture
322
00:14:32,580 --> 00:14:33,957
in my house, and, like--
323
00:14:33,957 --> 00:14:36,001
When I got the call
from Sasha to go to Africa,
324
00:14:36,001 --> 00:14:37,711
I was over the moon.
325
00:14:37,711 --> 00:14:40,338
When I first saw
Pico Cao Grande,
326
00:14:40,338 --> 00:14:42,674
I was floored.
It was beautiful.
327
00:14:42,674 --> 00:14:45,635
[ethereal ambient music]
328
00:14:45,635 --> 00:14:48,054
♪ ♪
329
00:14:48,054 --> 00:14:50,974
I met Angela on the
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
330
00:14:50,974 --> 00:14:52,934
on an ice climbing trip.
331
00:14:52,934 --> 00:14:55,186
I was pretty green
to ice climbing,
332
00:14:55,186 --> 00:14:58,148
and Angela really mentored me.
333
00:14:58,148 --> 00:14:59,524
The rock.
334
00:14:59,524 --> 00:15:01,359
Oh, I'm so pumped.
335
00:15:01,359 --> 00:15:02,777
God.
336
00:15:02,777 --> 00:15:04,863
♪ ♪
337
00:15:04,863 --> 00:15:06,948
And then--oh, dude!
338
00:15:06,948 --> 00:15:08,742
There's the bolt. First bolt.
- Where?
339
00:15:08,742 --> 00:15:10,910
After that crack system.
340
00:15:10,910 --> 00:15:12,370
- Is that the face?
- Yeah.
341
00:15:12,370 --> 00:15:13,705
That way.
342
00:15:13,705 --> 00:15:16,958
[indistinct chatter]
343
00:15:25,258 --> 00:15:28,011
My thoughts were that
Angela and I would swap leads,
344
00:15:28,011 --> 00:15:31,514
and essentially I would lead
the harder-graded climbs,
345
00:15:31,514 --> 00:15:35,435
and she would lead more
of the adventure terrain.
346
00:15:35,435 --> 00:15:36,936
Oh, the rock.
347
00:15:39,397 --> 00:15:40,315
Jungle.
348
00:15:40,315 --> 00:15:47,364
♪ ♪
349
00:15:49,282 --> 00:15:52,327
I'm spider-webby.
- It's really gravelly.
350
00:15:52,327 --> 00:15:55,747
I fought a lot of spiders
coming up.
351
00:15:55,747 --> 00:15:56,915
You're a little dirty.
352
00:15:56,915 --> 00:15:58,458
Sharp rock.
353
00:15:58,458 --> 00:16:00,418
And it's pouring rain,
and I'm getting a little--
354
00:16:00,418 --> 00:16:01,795
- Yeah, we're getting misted.
- Breeze.
355
00:16:01,795 --> 00:16:02,754
Niagara Falls over here.
356
00:16:02,754 --> 00:16:07,676
♪ ♪
357
00:16:07,676 --> 00:16:10,595
From the moment
we touched down on the ground,
358
00:16:10,595 --> 00:16:12,972
it was just rain.
359
00:16:12,972 --> 00:16:16,351
[suspenseful music]
360
00:16:16,351 --> 00:16:23,441
♪ ♪
361
00:16:25,527 --> 00:16:26,903
[grunts]
362
00:16:26,903 --> 00:16:29,864
♪ ♪
363
00:16:29,864 --> 00:16:30,782
When it rains,
364
00:16:30,782 --> 00:16:35,328
the likelihood of rockfall
goes way up.
365
00:16:35,328 --> 00:16:39,290
♪ ♪
366
00:16:39,290 --> 00:16:41,084
That's a whole
different level of risk
367
00:16:41,084 --> 00:16:42,711
that I never accounted for.
368
00:16:42,711 --> 00:16:44,045
♪ ♪
369
00:16:44,045 --> 00:16:47,298
Not normal protocol
to climb in the rain.
370
00:16:47,298 --> 00:16:48,550
Oh.
371
00:16:48,550 --> 00:16:52,470
My fucking feet won't even
stay on the holds.
372
00:16:52,470 --> 00:16:55,807
Like, this is like
such mossy bullshit.
373
00:17:01,312 --> 00:17:04,899
I'm not sure how wet
this climb is going to be.
374
00:17:04,899 --> 00:17:09,988
It feels like it's
one of the only options.
375
00:17:09,988 --> 00:17:10,989
Right now.
376
00:17:10,989 --> 00:17:14,200
[rain pattering]
377
00:17:33,470 --> 00:17:35,513
You got that.
378
00:17:35,513 --> 00:17:38,141
Oh, everything's so wet.
Holy smokes.
379
00:17:38,141 --> 00:17:42,270
Sasha is one of the most
driven people I've ever met.
380
00:17:42,270 --> 00:17:43,688
♪ ♪
381
00:17:43,688 --> 00:17:48,151
It helps her achieve the goals
that she sets for herself.
382
00:17:48,151 --> 00:17:50,362
And I do believe that
she finds self-worth
383
00:17:50,362 --> 00:17:56,576
and self-value in those goals
that she creates.
384
00:17:56,576 --> 00:17:58,870
Oh, no!
Fucker!
385
00:17:58,870 --> 00:18:00,955
On the grasp!
386
00:18:00,955 --> 00:18:03,541
No fucking way!
387
00:18:03,541 --> 00:18:04,876
Ah!
388
00:18:04,876 --> 00:18:07,796
[stirring orchestral music]
389
00:18:07,796 --> 00:18:14,844
♪ ♪
390
00:18:39,077 --> 00:18:40,620
[softly]
Yes.
391
00:18:40,620 --> 00:18:47,669
♪ ♪
392
00:18:55,552 --> 00:18:56,761
Yes.
393
00:18:56,761 --> 00:18:57,929
Whoo!
394
00:18:57,929 --> 00:19:02,058
Ow, ow, ow, ow!
395
00:19:02,058 --> 00:19:04,185
Sighs]
First pitch.
396
00:19:04,185 --> 00:19:07,772
But, man, that was a fight
through the mud.
397
00:19:07,772 --> 00:19:14,863
♪ ♪
398
00:19:24,831 --> 00:19:27,834
I just don't know if we're
going to get a weather window.
399
00:19:27,834 --> 00:19:30,003
Well, then I'm probably
not going to go to the top
400
00:19:30,003 --> 00:19:31,755
if we don't get
a weather window.
401
00:19:31,755 --> 00:19:34,424
Yeah, I mean,
it is shitty to be, like,
402
00:19:34,424 --> 00:19:36,801
the only one trying
to, like, push our,
403
00:19:36,801 --> 00:19:38,261
like, momentum forward.
404
00:19:38,261 --> 00:19:39,804
Like I said,
I'm super willing
405
00:19:39,804 --> 00:19:41,056
to go up there with you.
406
00:19:41,056 --> 00:19:42,891
I just, like,
want you to be doing it
407
00:19:42,891 --> 00:19:44,768
for the right reasons, girl.
408
00:19:44,768 --> 00:19:46,853
Like, I want you to--
409
00:19:46,853 --> 00:19:50,482
I'm, like, perfectly aware
of my--my, like, risk-taking.
410
00:19:50,482 --> 00:19:52,817
I just, like, if I feel
like something's sketchy,
411
00:19:52,817 --> 00:19:54,027
I come down.
412
00:19:54,027 --> 00:19:55,111
And my only point is that
413
00:19:55,111 --> 00:19:56,821
we don't know
until we check it out.
414
00:19:56,821 --> 00:19:58,823
[rain pattering]
415
00:19:58,823 --> 00:20:01,826
[thunder rumbling softly]
416
00:20:01,826 --> 00:20:04,829
[insects droning]
417
00:20:36,945 --> 00:20:39,864
[tense ambient music]
418
00:20:39,864 --> 00:20:44,744
♪ ♪
419
00:20:44,744 --> 00:20:48,581
Rock!
420
00:20:48,581 --> 00:20:50,041
You guys okay?
421
00:20:50,041 --> 00:20:51,876
[words echoing]
422
00:20:51,876 --> 00:20:53,628
♪ ♪
423
00:20:53,628 --> 00:20:56,006
Angela!
424
00:20:56,006 --> 00:20:57,298
[Sasha panting]
425
00:20:57,298 --> 00:20:59,259
I'm okay.
426
00:20:59,259 --> 00:21:03,179
A TV-sized block
coming off is, like,
427
00:21:03,179 --> 00:21:05,015
not cool.
428
00:21:05,015 --> 00:21:08,351
There was rockfall that almost
killed our photographer.
429
00:21:08,351 --> 00:21:11,479
And that was a very
high point of tension
430
00:21:11,479 --> 00:21:14,858
because Sasha didn't think
anything had gone wrong
431
00:21:14,858 --> 00:21:17,402
because nobody was hurt.
432
00:21:17,402 --> 00:21:20,697
My life partner of many years
433
00:21:20,697 --> 00:21:22,949
went on an expedition
to Pakistan.
434
00:21:22,949 --> 00:21:24,743
And he never came home.
435
00:21:24,743 --> 00:21:27,412
That dramatically
changed the way
436
00:21:27,412 --> 00:21:30,206
that I see the world
of climbing.
437
00:21:30,206 --> 00:21:34,044
I was bold,
and that's how I got my name.
438
00:21:34,044 --> 00:21:36,629
And now I'm very far
from bold.
439
00:21:36,629 --> 00:21:39,174
[somber music]
440
00:21:39,174 --> 00:21:42,427
I just don't really
want anyone to die.
441
00:21:42,427 --> 00:21:44,512
So no one dies on this route,
442
00:21:44,512 --> 00:21:45,847
it's going to be
a sweet summit.
443
00:21:45,847 --> 00:21:48,892
Somebody dies,
I'm going to be super-bummed.
444
00:21:48,892 --> 00:21:51,728
That's kind of where I'm at.
445
00:21:51,728 --> 00:21:54,272
If you feel like
you going up there
446
00:21:54,272 --> 00:21:55,607
is like you dying,
447
00:21:55,607 --> 00:21:57,776
then of course,
I can't push you.
448
00:21:57,776 --> 00:22:00,111
I just have confidence
that we can reach the top
449
00:22:00,111 --> 00:22:02,906
and that
we can mitigate the risk.
450
00:22:02,906 --> 00:22:05,950
I mean, I don't know what
you want me to say.
451
00:22:05,950 --> 00:22:07,994
[insects droning]
452
00:22:07,994 --> 00:22:11,915
At the end of that evening,
Sasha went into her tent
453
00:22:11,915 --> 00:22:16,127
and uploaded the GoPro footage
to Instagram.
454
00:22:16,127 --> 00:22:18,713
[tense music]
455
00:22:18,713 --> 00:22:20,590
Rock!
456
00:22:20,590 --> 00:22:22,884
♪ ♪
457
00:22:22,884 --> 00:22:25,136
You guys okay?
458
00:22:25,136 --> 00:22:27,806
♪ ♪
459
00:22:27,806 --> 00:22:29,808
Angela!
460
00:22:59,754 --> 00:23:02,382
Last night, my ego
was getting in the way
461
00:23:02,382 --> 00:23:04,634
of making a clear decision.
462
00:23:04,634 --> 00:23:07,387
I woke up this morning feeling
like this is against my ethic
463
00:23:07,387 --> 00:23:10,223
and not the example
I want to set.
464
00:23:10,223 --> 00:23:15,687
What hurts right now is
I feel like
465
00:23:15,687 --> 00:23:17,731
all of the preparation I did,
466
00:23:17,731 --> 00:23:22,235
and as much as
I wanted something,
467
00:23:22,235 --> 00:23:24,612
it's just not possible.
468
00:23:24,612 --> 00:23:26,740
And this is the first--
469
00:23:26,740 --> 00:23:29,409
this is the first mission
of mine,
470
00:23:29,409 --> 00:23:31,286
the first big wall
that I've gone on
471
00:23:31,286 --> 00:23:34,873
on a trip that
I haven't succeeded on.
472
00:23:34,873 --> 00:23:36,708
[engine chugging]
473
00:24:01,316 --> 00:24:04,486
[metallic tapping]
474
00:24:13,244 --> 00:24:16,206
[mechanical whirring]
475
00:24:42,107 --> 00:24:44,442
I was at fault
for the failed expedition
476
00:24:44,442 --> 00:24:46,319
because I was supposed to be
477
00:24:46,319 --> 00:24:48,947
keeping everyone
in good spirit.
478
00:24:48,947 --> 00:24:51,783
I wasn't empathetic
to their feelings.
479
00:24:51,783 --> 00:24:55,787
I wasn't the expedition leader
that they needed me to be.
480
00:24:55,787 --> 00:24:57,997
All right!
481
00:24:57,997 --> 00:25:00,041
We put six bolts in today.
482
00:25:00,041 --> 00:25:03,294
All right, let's try.
Let's go down one more.
483
00:25:03,294 --> 00:25:06,297
It was the first trip that
someone was telling me no,
484
00:25:06,297 --> 00:25:08,550
and, like, I didn't like that.
485
00:25:08,550 --> 00:25:11,136
All right, I'll come down.
486
00:25:11,136 --> 00:25:15,432
Growing up, I wanted
to do everything by myself.
487
00:25:15,432 --> 00:25:18,810
[dramatic energetic music]
488
00:25:18,810 --> 00:25:23,148
I wasn't naturally
that much of a team player.
489
00:25:23,148 --> 00:25:26,985
♪ ♪
490
00:25:26,985 --> 00:25:30,572
For instance,
my mom learned how to belay
491
00:25:30,572 --> 00:25:32,991
so that I could
maximize my time climbing
492
00:25:32,991 --> 00:25:35,076
and do laps.
493
00:25:35,076 --> 00:25:37,996
I was just game to help out
in any way I could.
494
00:25:37,996 --> 00:25:42,876
And that turned into
belaying Sasha
495
00:25:42,876 --> 00:25:48,048
so that she didn't take time
belaying another climber.
496
00:25:48,048 --> 00:25:49,674
She didn't really climb
with anyone else.
497
00:25:49,674 --> 00:25:51,134
It was just her mom.
498
00:25:51,134 --> 00:25:53,219
And so all she did was climb.
499
00:25:53,219 --> 00:25:54,679
Usually when you're climbing,
you have your partner
500
00:25:54,679 --> 00:25:57,724
and you take your breaks,
you know, and you rest.
501
00:25:57,724 --> 00:26:00,518
But for Sasha,
it was just like up and down,
502
00:26:00,518 --> 00:26:01,978
up and down, up and down.
503
00:26:01,978 --> 00:26:03,438
Go, Sasha!
504
00:26:03,438 --> 00:26:06,649
Elite athletes have
to have drive.
505
00:26:06,649 --> 00:26:08,943
You have to be selfish.
506
00:26:08,943 --> 00:26:13,531
Like, you have to be thinking
about how to elevate yourself.
507
00:26:13,531 --> 00:26:14,949
♪ ♪
508
00:26:14,949 --> 00:26:18,870
My mom,
she loved being a part of it.
509
00:26:18,870 --> 00:26:23,541
But my dad,
he was busy working.
510
00:26:23,541 --> 00:26:25,543
Didn't come
to my climbing competitions.
511
00:26:25,543 --> 00:26:28,046
He didn't really
understand climbing.
512
00:26:28,046 --> 00:26:31,508
He was scared that
I would go off
513
00:26:31,508 --> 00:26:34,552
and become a dirtbag
and not go to college.
514
00:26:34,552 --> 00:26:35,970
I wanted to prove to him
515
00:26:35,970 --> 00:26:37,889
that climbing was
a legitimate sport
516
00:26:37,889 --> 00:26:41,726
like tennis and hockey
and that I could make a living
517
00:26:41,726 --> 00:26:45,563
off of this sport
that I loved.
518
00:26:45,563 --> 00:26:50,235
What my dad did connect
with was me winning.
519
00:26:50,235 --> 00:26:52,070
♪ ♪
520
00:26:52,070 --> 00:26:54,781
I could say,
"Here's my gold medal."
521
00:26:54,781 --> 00:26:59,452
And he would beam
with a sense of pride.
522
00:26:59,452 --> 00:27:02,122
Our little tradition was
523
00:27:02,122 --> 00:27:05,583
my dad would bring me
to the airport.
524
00:27:05,583 --> 00:27:06,876
We'd talk about things
525
00:27:06,876 --> 00:27:09,629
that have nothing to do
with climbing.
526
00:27:09,629 --> 00:27:13,383
[soft upbeat music]
527
00:27:13,383 --> 00:27:15,844
And whenever
he dropped me off,
528
00:27:15,844 --> 00:27:20,724
he'd say, "Have fun, be safe,
and do your best."
529
00:27:20,724 --> 00:27:22,642
[audience exclaim]
530
00:27:22,642 --> 00:27:25,854
[applause]
531
00:27:25,854 --> 00:27:30,191
♪ ♪
532
00:27:30,191 --> 00:27:32,610
[wind whooshing]
533
00:27:32,610 --> 00:27:36,114
It's such
a beautiful formation.
534
00:27:36,114 --> 00:27:38,158
For Sasha and I
to do a new route here
535
00:27:38,158 --> 00:27:41,369
would be a great achievement
for us,
536
00:27:41,369 --> 00:27:44,789
but also a gift
to the climbers.
537
00:27:47,208 --> 00:27:50,795
Once we've got it all bolted,
the fun part starts.
538
00:27:50,795 --> 00:27:53,298
That's why I wanted Sasha
to be a part of this,
539
00:27:53,298 --> 00:27:56,968
because we can do something
for the community of Boulder
540
00:27:56,968 --> 00:28:00,388
and all the climbers that are
looking for new routes
541
00:28:00,388 --> 00:28:03,433
about that level of difficulty.
542
00:28:03,433 --> 00:28:07,520
Sasha is a young woman who's
still figuring it out.
543
00:28:07,520 --> 00:28:08,980
My feet are actually
still warm.
544
00:28:08,980 --> 00:28:11,900
We share similar goals when
it comes to climbing.
545
00:28:11,900 --> 00:28:13,568
- We're in climbing shoes.
- Yeah.
546
00:28:13,568 --> 00:28:15,653
Once you decide
to do something,
547
00:28:15,653 --> 00:28:17,822
there's no backing down.
548
00:28:17,822 --> 00:28:19,240
That's just part
of our character,
549
00:28:19,240 --> 00:28:23,036
and it's part of what
makes us good climbers.
550
00:28:23,036 --> 00:28:26,664
But we come from a
completely different culture.
551
00:28:26,664 --> 00:28:27,832
The world is
a lot different today
552
00:28:27,832 --> 00:28:30,502
than it was when
I was her age.
553
00:28:30,502 --> 00:28:33,838
[dreamy upbeat rock music]
554
00:28:33,838 --> 00:28:36,341
Back in the days when I
was climbing the big walls
555
00:28:36,341 --> 00:28:39,678
of Yosemite as, like,
an 18-, 19-year-old,
556
00:28:39,678 --> 00:28:41,638
I met this group of climbers
557
00:28:41,638 --> 00:28:45,308
that are now known
as the Stonemasters.
558
00:28:45,308 --> 00:28:48,019
They were pushing the level
of free climbing in America
559
00:28:48,019 --> 00:28:50,105
and finding the routes
that were harder
560
00:28:50,105 --> 00:28:51,856
than what had already
been done.
561
00:28:51,856 --> 00:28:54,275
It was a very inclusive group,
562
00:28:54,275 --> 00:28:56,194
people from different walks
of life.
563
00:28:56,194 --> 00:28:59,864
And where we were bonded was
in our love for climbing.
564
00:28:59,864 --> 00:29:01,866
My first female
climbing partner,
565
00:29:01,866 --> 00:29:05,537
Mari Gingery, she and I were
pretty much the only women
566
00:29:05,537 --> 00:29:07,205
in this group of men.
567
00:29:07,205 --> 00:29:09,708
♪ ♪
568
00:29:09,708 --> 00:29:12,210
It took a while
for people to understand
569
00:29:12,210 --> 00:29:14,004
that climbing
is actually a sport
570
00:29:14,004 --> 00:29:16,256
and that women can do it.
571
00:29:16,256 --> 00:29:18,591
We do what we think
we're capable of.
572
00:29:18,591 --> 00:29:21,386
So we're
telling ourselves stories,
573
00:29:21,386 --> 00:29:24,639
and the story you tell yourself
is the most important one.
574
00:29:24,639 --> 00:29:28,309
♪ ♪
575
00:29:28,309 --> 00:29:30,854
I was just enjoying
being out there
576
00:29:30,854 --> 00:29:33,565
and hanging out with these
people that like to have fun
577
00:29:33,565 --> 00:29:35,275
and just do crazy things.
578
00:29:35,275 --> 00:29:38,319
It was a really beautiful time
in my life
579
00:29:38,319 --> 00:29:41,990
where I felt free
and on the edge of something
580
00:29:41,990 --> 00:29:46,369
that nobody else really cared,
but we cared.
581
00:29:46,369 --> 00:29:47,495
[rowdy rock music]
582
00:29:47,495 --> 00:29:49,539
Then I was part of the first
generation of climbers
583
00:29:49,539 --> 00:29:52,250
that got to
experience competition.
584
00:29:52,250 --> 00:29:53,251
[audience cheering]
585
00:29:53,251 --> 00:29:56,421
And that was very
controversial at first.
586
00:29:56,421 --> 00:29:59,090
Some climbers on one side
that would say
587
00:29:59,090 --> 00:30:01,092
climbing is not
a competitive sport
588
00:30:01,092 --> 00:30:04,971
and how would we judge who's
the best climber anyway?
589
00:30:04,971 --> 00:30:08,808
The only way I was really
making money was prize money.
590
00:30:08,808 --> 00:30:12,103
When I asked the organizers
if the men and women
591
00:30:12,103 --> 00:30:14,564
were getting paid the same
for prize money,
592
00:30:14,564 --> 00:30:16,858
they just said, "Well,
women will get paid the same
593
00:30:16,858 --> 00:30:20,236
if they climb
without their tops on."
594
00:30:20,236 --> 00:30:22,864
When I retired
from competitions,
595
00:30:22,864 --> 00:30:26,076
I decided to do
one last big climb,
596
00:30:26,076 --> 00:30:28,495
the first free ascent
of the most famous route
597
00:30:28,495 --> 00:30:32,248
in the middle of El Capitan
called the Nose.
598
00:30:32,248 --> 00:30:33,958
People said
it couldn't be done.
599
00:30:33,958 --> 00:30:35,919
And when people say
it can't be done,
600
00:30:35,919 --> 00:30:37,796
that's when
I get most motivated.
601
00:30:37,796 --> 00:30:39,631
Oh, really?
It can't be done?
602
00:30:39,631 --> 00:30:40,965
Who would ever say that?
603
00:30:40,965 --> 00:30:42,842
Why would you ever say
something can't be done?
604
00:30:42,842 --> 00:30:44,803
It's just a matter
of finding the way to do it.
605
00:30:44,803 --> 00:30:47,263
Lynn Hill is a legend
amongst climbers.
606
00:30:47,263 --> 00:30:49,933
This morning, a woman
adventure writer Jon Krakauer
607
00:30:49,933 --> 00:30:52,268
called, quote,
"Not just one of the best
608
00:30:52,268 --> 00:30:56,731
female climbers, but one
of the all-time greats."
609
00:30:56,731 --> 00:30:58,191
The first part says,
610
00:30:58,191 --> 00:31:00,360
"Someday, some guy is going
to free the Nose."
611
00:31:00,360 --> 00:31:01,361
Yeah
612
00:31:01,361 --> 00:31:03,363
And at the bottom,
it says, "It goes, boys."
613
00:31:03,363 --> 00:31:04,739
[laughs]
- That's amazing.
614
00:31:04,739 --> 00:31:06,157
Yeah.
615
00:31:06,157 --> 00:31:08,034
You know that's the poster
of you that I grew up with?
616
00:31:08,034 --> 00:31:10,286
It was signed by you.
617
00:31:10,286 --> 00:31:12,414
Yeah.
- Now, this is really funny.
618
00:31:12,414 --> 00:31:14,958
This photo was taken when
I was probably 19.
619
00:31:14,958 --> 00:31:16,835
So they came out to Joshua Tree
and they're like,
620
00:31:16,835 --> 00:31:18,670
"Who wants to get
some free schwag
621
00:31:18,670 --> 00:31:20,505
and take a few photos with us?"
622
00:31:20,505 --> 00:31:21,798
And so I said, "Sure."
623
00:31:21,798 --> 00:31:23,842
So they gave me
those stand up shorts.
624
00:31:23,842 --> 00:31:25,301
I did get sponsored later,
625
00:31:25,301 --> 00:31:28,888
but I wasn't
making enough money to survive
626
00:31:28,888 --> 00:31:30,223
and be a mother.
627
00:31:30,223 --> 00:31:31,891
I always had
to do a side hustle.
628
00:31:31,891 --> 00:31:34,185
And it just got really tiring
629
00:31:34,185 --> 00:31:36,855
to have to always
be answering to a sponsor,
630
00:31:36,855 --> 00:31:39,441
have a side hustle,
and be a mom.
631
00:31:39,441 --> 00:31:41,693
There's a young Sasha.
632
00:31:41,693 --> 00:31:42,861
"Kids of Climbing."
- Yeah.
633
00:31:42,861 --> 00:31:43,862
- How old were you then?
- 2007.
634
00:31:43,862 --> 00:31:44,863
Because of people like Lynn
635
00:31:44,863 --> 00:31:47,032
who really
pioneered the sport,
636
00:31:47,032 --> 00:31:48,908
my generation gets to actually
637
00:31:48,908 --> 00:31:50,994
make a living doing what
you love.
638
00:31:50,994 --> 00:31:53,371
Oh, my goodness,
Little Sasha.
639
00:31:53,371 --> 00:31:57,542
I want women to have
equal access to equity
640
00:31:57,542 --> 00:31:59,461
and equality in sport.
641
00:31:59,461 --> 00:32:01,046
It's not about the money.
642
00:32:01,046 --> 00:32:03,381
Money enables you freedom,
643
00:32:03,381 --> 00:32:07,844
and freedom enables you
to do what you want to do.
644
00:32:07,844 --> 00:32:09,346
[upbeat music]
645
00:32:09,346 --> 00:32:12,932
I took a very business-forward
approach to my career.
646
00:32:12,932 --> 00:32:16,186
And even from a young age,
I had brand principles
647
00:32:16,186 --> 00:32:18,855
and a mission statement
of who I was.
648
00:32:18,855 --> 00:32:20,273
I remember writing out
649
00:32:20,273 --> 00:32:22,942
the mission statement
of Sasha DiGiulian.
650
00:32:22,942 --> 00:32:24,235
I always looked
at professional climbing
651
00:32:24,235 --> 00:32:26,946
as basically
similar to dumpster diving.
652
00:32:26,946 --> 00:32:29,074
Get in there and see
what you can find.
653
00:32:29,074 --> 00:32:31,576
Sasha was just really good
at diving in the dumpster.
654
00:32:31,576 --> 00:32:33,203
I don't--[laughs]
655
00:32:33,203 --> 00:32:35,455
I said yes to everything.
656
00:32:35,455 --> 00:32:40,085
Tires, makeup brands,
fitness trackers.
657
00:32:40,085 --> 00:32:42,170
Did a deal with Seamless,
which was awesome
658
00:32:42,170 --> 00:32:43,588
because I was in college
659
00:32:43,588 --> 00:32:46,508
and it was like free delivery
for a year.
660
00:32:46,508 --> 00:32:49,427
She's a businesswoman.
She's a self-marketer.
661
00:32:49,427 --> 00:32:54,182
She's the OG millennial
influencer pro climber.
662
00:32:54,182 --> 00:32:56,267
One of the first
people to really
663
00:32:56,267 --> 00:32:59,062
be Insta-famous
in our climbing community
664
00:32:59,062 --> 00:33:01,147
and have a huge following
665
00:33:01,147 --> 00:33:03,358
and be able to leverage
and use that
666
00:33:03,358 --> 00:33:05,443
in ways
that were to her benefit
667
00:33:05,443 --> 00:33:08,905
but also became
extremely isolating.
668
00:33:08,905 --> 00:33:10,782
♪ ♪
669
00:33:10,782 --> 00:33:12,492
Agent Provocateur
approached me
670
00:33:12,492 --> 00:33:15,286
about being a part
of this new campaign,
671
00:33:15,286 --> 00:33:18,289
embracing strength
as not mutually
672
00:33:18,289 --> 00:33:20,542
exclusive from femininity.
673
00:33:20,542 --> 00:33:22,293
It was a fun experience
674
00:33:22,293 --> 00:33:25,005
and one of the most ridiculous
things that I've done.
675
00:33:25,005 --> 00:33:27,799
But I'm, like,
pretty happy that I did it.
676
00:33:38,309 --> 00:33:41,187
Sometimes she's
critiqued by, you know,
677
00:33:41,187 --> 00:33:42,981
the trolls on the internet.
678
00:33:42,981 --> 00:33:44,941
The culture
that I came from,
679
00:33:44,941 --> 00:33:47,152
people didn't boast
about themselves.
680
00:33:47,152 --> 00:33:48,236
There was no social media.
681
00:33:48,236 --> 00:33:51,656
They were very discreet,
and if anything,
682
00:33:51,656 --> 00:33:54,325
understated and humble.
683
00:33:54,325 --> 00:33:57,537
And if you see somebody who's
the opposite of that, you know,
684
00:33:57,537 --> 00:34:00,623
the tendency is to tear
that person down.
685
00:34:05,337 --> 00:34:09,341
I love to climb hard, and
I also love to wear pink.
686
00:34:09,341 --> 00:34:11,176
I love to be outside,
but I also love
687
00:34:11,176 --> 00:34:14,846
to stay in a five-star hotel.
688
00:34:14,846 --> 00:34:19,726
Being true to myself and not
having to dampen my shine
689
00:34:19,726 --> 00:34:25,440
is maybe why I cause friction,
690
00:34:25,440 --> 00:34:28,360
but I'm human,
so I'm always going to be
691
00:34:28,360 --> 00:34:34,366
affected by negative comments.
692
00:34:34,366 --> 00:34:37,702
I have spent a lot of time
anguishing over what
693
00:34:37,702 --> 00:34:40,747
other people think about me.
694
00:34:40,747 --> 00:34:45,251
I went through a really
public cyberbullying incident
695
00:34:45,251 --> 00:34:49,798
that came from a long saga
of someone
696
00:34:49,798 --> 00:34:54,427
in our community mocking,
essentially, me being obese.
697
00:34:54,427 --> 00:34:56,971
And I crafted a post about it.
698
00:34:56,971 --> 00:35:02,185
What resulted in that was fury
towards me and towards him.
699
00:35:02,185 --> 00:35:06,398
I have been dealing
with someone who has treated me
700
00:35:06,398 --> 00:35:10,318
poorly through harassment,
online and offline,
701
00:35:10,318 --> 00:35:13,363
over the last eight years.
702
00:35:13,363 --> 00:35:18,410
And I exposed something
that was posted online.
703
00:35:18,410 --> 00:35:21,287
And my opinion
about social media
704
00:35:21,287 --> 00:35:25,041
is that what is posted
online is posted
705
00:35:25,041 --> 00:35:26,584
to a public forum.
706
00:35:26,584 --> 00:35:30,213
Whether from a public account
or a private account,
707
00:35:30,213 --> 00:35:34,092
we all have to face the
accountability of our actions.
708
00:35:34,092 --> 00:35:38,430
She fought back,
709
00:35:38,430 --> 00:35:41,683
fucking nuked him
on social media.
710
00:35:41,683 --> 00:35:44,894
That person lost
their entire livelihood.
711
00:35:44,894 --> 00:35:47,397
People had a hard time
with that fact,
712
00:35:47,397 --> 00:35:48,940
because it was
a well-loved person
713
00:35:48,940 --> 00:35:52,444
in the climbing community.
714
00:35:52,444 --> 00:35:55,697
Something that Sasha
will always be associated with
715
00:35:55,697 --> 00:35:57,532
and never escape,
but at the same time,
716
00:35:57,532 --> 00:36:02,120
she was right
to stand up for herself.
717
00:36:02,120 --> 00:36:06,708
I'm glad I stood up
for myself.
718
00:36:06,708 --> 00:36:10,628
But I felt like an outsider
within my own community.
719
00:36:10,628 --> 00:36:13,381
[exhales]
720
00:36:13,381 --> 00:36:15,467
The way that I deal
with things is trying
721
00:36:15,467 --> 00:36:19,679
to compartmentalize what
is going on under the surface.
722
00:36:19,679 --> 00:36:23,767
Because my job is to be
a professional climber.
723
00:36:23,767 --> 00:36:26,144
And if I'm not climbing
something of significance
724
00:36:26,144 --> 00:36:29,647
each year, like,
I feel inadequate
725
00:36:29,647 --> 00:36:32,650
and not deserving
of the support that I have.
726
00:36:32,650 --> 00:36:34,235
[exhales]
727
00:36:34,235 --> 00:36:36,696
Seeing pressure as a reason
728
00:36:36,696 --> 00:36:41,368
to hit the gas harder is--
729
00:36:41,368 --> 00:36:43,661
has always been my mentality.
730
00:36:44,996 --> 00:36:46,164
[indistinct chatter]
731
00:36:46,164 --> 00:36:49,209
She has unbelievable goals
that are going to push her
732
00:36:49,209 --> 00:36:51,461
mentally and physically
and push female climbing
733
00:36:51,461 --> 00:36:53,380
and push climbing in general.
734
00:36:53,380 --> 00:36:56,508
She also is very aware of the
fact that she's getting older,
735
00:36:56,508 --> 00:36:58,385
and she's aware
of what transpires
736
00:36:58,385 --> 00:37:02,639
and how brand relationships
transition as you get older
737
00:37:02,639 --> 00:37:04,516
and maybe you become
slightly less relevant.
738
00:37:04,516 --> 00:37:07,519
She is very much
grasping with like, well,
739
00:37:07,519 --> 00:37:10,522
what does it mean if some day
I'm not as relevant?
740
00:37:10,522 --> 00:37:13,274
And I think she's thinking
of all that emotionally,
741
00:37:13,274 --> 00:37:15,235
and I think she's also
thinking about it financially.
742
00:37:15,235 --> 00:37:17,987
I'm in the prime
of my career,
743
00:37:17,987 --> 00:37:21,449
and I want to take advantage
of that as much as possible.
744
00:37:21,449 --> 00:37:26,538
And that's going after
these first female ascents.
745
00:37:26,538 --> 00:37:28,665
When I see a woman
has done a climb,
746
00:37:28,665 --> 00:37:31,668
it all of a sudden connects
the dots that it's like,
747
00:37:31,668 --> 00:37:34,379
oh, wow,
if she did it, I can do it.
748
00:37:34,379 --> 00:37:35,922
And so in a way,
it kind of opens
749
00:37:35,922 --> 00:37:37,799
this floodgate of possibility.
750
00:37:37,799 --> 00:37:40,760
[light music]
751
00:37:40,760 --> 00:37:46,141
♪ ♪
752
00:37:46,141 --> 00:37:49,144
Sao Tome didn't work out,
and I came home
753
00:37:49,144 --> 00:37:52,230
hungry to go
and lead another big wall,
754
00:37:52,230 --> 00:37:54,566
all-female expedition.
755
00:37:54,566 --> 00:37:58,903
And that came in the form
of Logical Progression,
756
00:37:58,903 --> 00:38:02,866
the most badass sport
big wall in the world,
757
00:38:02,866 --> 00:38:06,411
a 3,000-foot face climb
up a monolith
758
00:38:06,411 --> 00:38:10,040
called El Gigante in Mexico.
759
00:38:10,040 --> 00:38:11,708
The route
hadn't been free-climbed
760
00:38:11,708 --> 00:38:13,251
by a woman before.
761
00:38:13,251 --> 00:38:15,295
And all the men
that had done it
762
00:38:15,295 --> 00:38:17,130
were these big names
that I respected,
763
00:38:17,130 --> 00:38:19,424
like Josh Wharton,
Alex Honnold,
764
00:38:19,424 --> 00:38:23,219
Sonnie Trotter,
Hayden Kennedy.
765
00:38:23,219 --> 00:38:27,640
I was dead set on going there
and trying it.
766
00:38:27,640 --> 00:38:29,392
♪ ♪
767
00:38:29,392 --> 00:38:30,894
The Logical Progression
will suit you really well,
768
00:38:30,894 --> 00:38:32,479
because it's, like,
techy vert fingery.
769
00:38:32,479 --> 00:38:35,565
And it's like technical and
sort of meander back and forth.
770
00:38:35,565 --> 00:38:37,442
But overall, I remember
the whole route basically
771
00:38:37,442 --> 00:38:39,152
being small edges up the face.
772
00:38:39,152 --> 00:38:40,195
- Okay, so like--
- You know, like--like,
773
00:38:40,195 --> 00:38:41,279
miles of just creeping up
a vertical wall.
774
00:38:41,279 --> 00:38:42,614
- Climb vertical--
- Yeah.
775
00:38:42,614 --> 00:38:44,032
And then I remember
that the first pitches
776
00:38:44,032 --> 00:38:47,786
is are more thought-provoking
than the rating would imply.
777
00:38:47,786 --> 00:38:49,287
You know, you're like,
"Oh, 11-A, that'll be fast."
778
00:38:49,287 --> 00:38:50,246
And then you get up there,
you're like,
779
00:38:50,246 --> 00:38:51,706
"Where are the holds?"
It's all confusing.
780
00:38:51,706 --> 00:38:53,333
Yeah.
781
00:38:57,712 --> 00:38:58,922
If someone's
a professional climber,
782
00:38:58,922 --> 00:39:02,384
you can kind of tell by
the way they move on a rock.
783
00:39:02,384 --> 00:39:03,802
That's how I judge
a professional climber
784
00:39:03,802 --> 00:39:07,806
is if they can just show up
at the crag and climb well.
785
00:39:07,806 --> 00:39:09,683
Boy.
786
00:39:09,683 --> 00:39:10,725
Sasha definitely has that.
787
00:39:10,725 --> 00:39:12,310
You watch her climb,
and you can tell
788
00:39:12,310 --> 00:39:14,354
that she's really good at it.
789
00:39:14,354 --> 00:39:18,983
[breathing heavily]
790
00:39:18,983 --> 00:39:21,653
I think I'm dying, because my
right hip is really throbbing.
791
00:39:21,653 --> 00:39:24,489
Like, last night, like, I had
to take three Advil at night.
792
00:39:24,489 --> 00:39:26,032
I kind of, like, went cold.
793
00:39:26,032 --> 00:39:29,202
I was like, "I can't go
to Mexico with this.
794
00:39:29,202 --> 00:39:32,539
I need to get
a cortisone shot."
795
00:39:32,539 --> 00:39:35,166
Finally went in,
and it turned out I needed
796
00:39:35,166 --> 00:39:37,293
a total hip reconstruction.
797
00:39:37,293 --> 00:39:39,504
because my femur head
was essentially
798
00:39:39,504 --> 00:39:41,673
popping out of the socket.
799
00:39:41,673 --> 00:39:44,759
It would be a series of five
surgeries over the course
800
00:39:44,759 --> 00:39:45,802
of about a year.
801
00:39:45,802 --> 00:39:47,679
And the surgeon
didn't know if I
802
00:39:47,679 --> 00:39:49,639
would be able
to return to the level
803
00:39:49,639 --> 00:39:52,308
of climbing that I was at.
804
00:39:52,308 --> 00:39:55,311
[somber music]
805
00:39:55,311 --> 00:39:59,733
But since I already had done
all of the damage to my hips,
806
00:39:59,733 --> 00:40:02,986
two weeks wasn't going to make
it necessarily much worse.
807
00:40:02,986 --> 00:40:05,488
So I could go to Mexico,
complete the climb,
808
00:40:05,488 --> 00:40:09,701
and then return for surgery.
809
00:40:09,701 --> 00:40:11,870
I was in a state
of total disarray
810
00:40:11,870 --> 00:40:14,539
and trying to process the
news that I had just gotten
811
00:40:14,539 --> 00:40:18,418
about the potential
career-ending set of surgeries
812
00:40:18,418 --> 00:40:20,170
that I'd have to go through.
813
00:40:20,170 --> 00:40:21,338
So that's--yeah.
814
00:40:21,338 --> 00:40:24,174
And then I got
the call about Nolan.
815
00:40:24,174 --> 00:40:25,383
♪ ♪
816
00:40:25,383 --> 00:40:27,594
Nolan was
a really beloved member
817
00:40:27,594 --> 00:40:31,056
of the community in climbing
and in base jumping.
818
00:40:31,056 --> 00:40:37,228
He had gone ahead to hang
static lines for my team.
819
00:40:37,228 --> 00:40:40,398
♪ ♪
820
00:40:40,398 --> 00:40:42,359
He was climbing the route,
821
00:40:42,359 --> 00:40:46,071
and a major ledge
that he was on broke.
822
00:40:46,071 --> 00:40:48,698
He fell from over 1,000 feet.
823
00:40:48,698 --> 00:40:51,576
[helicopter blades whirring]
824
00:40:51,576 --> 00:40:54,579
We had left Mexico
the next morning.
825
00:40:54,579 --> 00:40:59,334
Nolan's whole family
flew down.
826
00:40:59,334 --> 00:41:01,211
After we recovered
Nolan's body,
827
00:41:01,211 --> 00:41:04,923
we shut the expedition down,
and we all flew home.
828
00:41:04,923 --> 00:41:09,844
I felt extremely lost
and confused and broken.
829
00:41:09,844 --> 00:41:13,723
♪ ♪
830
00:41:17,936 --> 00:41:23,900
[birds chirping]
831
00:41:23,900 --> 00:41:26,653
I had hardly gotten home
from Mexico,
832
00:41:26,653 --> 00:41:31,533
and I went in
for my first hip surgery.
833
00:41:33,326 --> 00:41:38,748
[machine beeping]
834
00:41:45,213 --> 00:41:49,551
[machine beeping]
835
00:41:57,183 --> 00:42:02,939
[saw whirring]
836
00:42:05,942 --> 00:42:07,318
[hammer clacking]
837
00:42:07,318 --> 00:42:10,321
[light music]
838
00:42:10,321 --> 00:42:12,866
♪ ♪
839
00:42:12,866 --> 00:42:16,453
Sasha's tagline was,
you're not the boss of me.
840
00:42:16,453 --> 00:42:17,787
♪ ♪
841
00:42:17,787 --> 00:42:20,081
She said it all the time.
842
00:42:20,081 --> 00:42:23,001
My husband would say something
that she didn't want to do.
843
00:42:23,001 --> 00:42:25,837
She'd say, well, "I'm going
to get a new family."
844
00:42:25,837 --> 00:42:28,131
Such a very tiny little girl.
845
00:42:28,131 --> 00:42:29,466
Sasha?
846
00:42:29,466 --> 00:42:30,884
Oh, she's waking up.
847
00:42:30,884 --> 00:42:32,344
Sasha?
848
00:42:32,344 --> 00:42:36,056
Hey, good morning.
849
00:42:36,056 --> 00:42:37,515
Can you wiggle your toes?
850
00:42:37,515 --> 00:42:39,768
Oh, there we go.
Lift them up.
851
00:42:39,768 --> 00:42:41,519
♪ ♪
852
00:42:41,519 --> 00:42:43,021
Push down with the arms
all the way.
853
00:42:43,021 --> 00:42:44,606
No weight on that leg.
854
00:42:44,606 --> 00:42:48,443
Sasha doesn't like
to not do something well.
855
00:42:48,443 --> 00:42:51,571
And she doesn't like
to be imperfect.
856
00:42:51,571 --> 00:42:54,324
So she'll just do it
and do it and do it.
857
00:42:54,324 --> 00:42:57,702
Surgery number two,
here we go.
858
00:42:57,702 --> 00:43:00,372
Here I had this little kid
going off on weekends
859
00:43:00,372 --> 00:43:02,123
climbing up these mountains.
860
00:43:02,123 --> 00:43:05,418
She gave up her senior prom
to go on a climbing trip.
861
00:43:05,418 --> 00:43:06,795
Like, there was no choice.
862
00:43:06,795 --> 00:43:09,964
Like, "I'm not going to prom."
863
00:43:09,964 --> 00:43:11,424
- Yay.
- Yay.
864
00:43:11,424 --> 00:43:14,219
[exhales]
865
00:43:14,219 --> 00:43:16,054
Watch this, Mom.
866
00:43:16,054 --> 00:43:17,847
Press into this.
867
00:43:17,847 --> 00:43:20,225
I allowed her to do
what she wanted.
868
00:43:20,225 --> 00:43:21,893
I allowed her to go to Europe
869
00:43:21,893 --> 00:43:25,438
with her boyfriend
when she was just 16.
870
00:43:25,438 --> 00:43:27,399
She came back with
another boyfriend too.
871
00:43:27,399 --> 00:43:29,192
It was, like, a Norwegian.
872
00:43:29,192 --> 00:43:33,321
I trusted myself,
and I trusted her.
873
00:43:33,321 --> 00:43:37,659
And I really didn't care
about what anybody else said.
874
00:43:37,659 --> 00:43:40,203
Here we go again.
875
00:43:40,203 --> 00:43:42,455
Love you.
876
00:43:42,455 --> 00:43:43,998
♪ ♪
877
00:43:43,998 --> 00:43:45,709
When she told me
she was planning
878
00:43:45,709 --> 00:43:47,585
on doing Logical Progression,
879
00:43:47,585 --> 00:43:50,797
I wasn't so sure
I really wanted her to,
880
00:43:50,797 --> 00:43:54,050
but Sasha just sets her goals.
881
00:43:54,050 --> 00:43:57,095
And who am I to say
you can't do it
882
00:43:57,095 --> 00:44:00,682
when that's what she wants
to do?
883
00:44:00,682 --> 00:44:02,434
Good.
[laughs]
884
00:44:02,434 --> 00:44:04,102
I could lay on
a whole lot of guilt,
885
00:44:04,102 --> 00:44:09,899
but I'm going to save that
for when I really need it.
886
00:44:09,899 --> 00:44:16,948
♪ ♪
887
00:44:26,708 --> 00:44:29,294
I was really
in an emotional state
888
00:44:29,294 --> 00:44:32,213
after the surgeries
and not really knowing, like,
889
00:44:32,213 --> 00:44:35,008
what life would look like.
890
00:44:35,008 --> 00:44:38,053
I started thinking about
what I could control,
891
00:44:38,053 --> 00:44:43,183
so I started thinking more
about what impact my nutrition
892
00:44:43,183 --> 00:44:45,894
could have on my body
accelerating
893
00:44:45,894 --> 00:44:50,690
through the recovery process.
894
00:44:50,690 --> 00:44:53,818
The deep,
dark undercurrent of climbing
895
00:44:53,818 --> 00:44:55,236
that's the elephant
in the room
896
00:44:55,236 --> 00:44:59,157
to a lot of climbers
and myself included,
897
00:44:59,157 --> 00:45:03,703
is the conversation
about weight.
898
00:45:03,703 --> 00:45:08,500
For group A
with Sasha DiGiulian,
899
00:45:08,500 --> 00:45:10,293
[indistinct].
900
00:45:10,293 --> 00:45:14,422
2010, I was, like,
at the top of my podiums,
901
00:45:14,422 --> 00:45:20,303
and I was 94 pounds.
902
00:45:20,303 --> 00:45:23,306
Being skinny on the wall
meant less weight to pull up
903
00:45:23,306 --> 00:45:29,062
the wall, but it also meant a
future of just health issues
904
00:45:29,062 --> 00:45:33,942
that were unavoidable
if I kept on that track,
905
00:45:33,942 --> 00:45:36,861
what I'm going to eat, how
much food I'm going to eat,
906
00:45:36,861 --> 00:45:39,614
thinking that I needed
to keep losing weight.
907
00:45:39,614 --> 00:45:41,991
[speaking in native language]
908
00:45:41,991 --> 00:45:44,077
The people who are winning
the world cups
909
00:45:44,077 --> 00:45:47,789
were way thinner than I was.
910
00:45:47,789 --> 00:45:48,748
[cheers and applause]
911
00:45:48,748 --> 00:45:50,792
I think there was maybe,
like, a period
912
00:45:50,792 --> 00:45:52,794
where I hadn't seen her in,
like, a year or two,
913
00:45:52,794 --> 00:45:54,546
and I bumped into her.
914
00:45:54,546 --> 00:46:00,343
And I almost didn't
recognize her.
915
00:46:00,343 --> 00:46:05,265
And, you know,
my heart just kind of dropped,
916
00:46:05,265 --> 00:46:09,561
because she just looked
917
00:46:09,561 --> 00:46:13,064
so skinny and not healthy.
918
00:46:13,064 --> 00:46:18,278
As I progressed in my 20s,
I wanted to build my strength
919
00:46:18,278 --> 00:46:19,946
instead of lose weight.
920
00:46:19,946 --> 00:46:22,407
My experience
with malnutrition
921
00:46:22,407 --> 00:46:23,783
led me to really want to learn
922
00:46:23,783 --> 00:46:26,911
a lot more about nutrition.
923
00:46:26,911 --> 00:46:30,874
And it's only really been
over the last few years
924
00:46:30,874 --> 00:46:32,083
that I've felt, like,
925
00:46:32,083 --> 00:46:34,753
really confident
in my own skin.
926
00:46:34,753 --> 00:46:38,548
♪ ♪
927
00:46:38,548 --> 00:46:40,967
I love waking up,
moving my body,
928
00:46:40,967 --> 00:46:43,094
taking part in everyday life.
929
00:46:43,094 --> 00:46:46,931
And when you're injured,
you don't get to do that.
930
00:46:46,931 --> 00:46:51,644
And so it makes you feel
super vulnerable.
931
00:46:51,644 --> 00:46:54,356
I can't really explain
very well
932
00:46:54,356 --> 00:46:59,277
why I'm so inspired
to climb Logical Progression.
933
00:46:59,277 --> 00:47:01,696
It's just a climb
that represents a lot.
934
00:47:01,696 --> 00:47:03,448
It represents
this entire journey
935
00:47:03,448 --> 00:47:04,949
of what I've gone through.
936
00:47:04,949 --> 00:47:08,578
And it represented
this driving force for me
937
00:47:08,578 --> 00:47:11,414
before my injury.
938
00:47:11,414 --> 00:47:14,000
And it represented something
that I wanted to do,
939
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:16,711
that I was committed to,
that I was training for.
940
00:47:16,711 --> 00:47:23,009
And it's almost like the climb
itself is what separates me
941
00:47:23,009 --> 00:47:26,596
before all of this and me now.
942
00:47:26,596 --> 00:47:29,057
Just by being
on Logical Progression,
943
00:47:29,057 --> 00:47:31,768
I get to confront my fears
head on.
944
00:47:31,768 --> 00:47:34,771
♪ ♪
945
00:47:34,771 --> 00:47:39,442
It's totally insane
for her to be
946
00:47:39,442 --> 00:47:41,194
pursuing a goal like this
947
00:47:41,194 --> 00:47:44,614
on the heels
of five surgeries.
948
00:47:44,614 --> 00:47:45,907
It's beyond dark comedy.
949
00:47:45,907 --> 00:47:48,076
It's kind of like,
"What are we doing here?
950
00:47:48,076 --> 00:47:49,536
"Like, your hips aren't ready.
951
00:47:49,536 --> 00:47:50,995
"You don't have a partner.
952
00:47:50,995 --> 00:47:53,790
Like,
give it a couple months."
953
00:47:53,790 --> 00:47:55,417
- [chuckles]
- Okay.
954
00:47:55,417 --> 00:47:58,837
To have one surgery
where they break her hip
955
00:47:58,837 --> 00:48:02,674
and reconstruct it,
putting in four big screws,
956
00:48:02,674 --> 00:48:03,717
recovered from that,
957
00:48:03,717 --> 00:48:05,802
second hip, same thing,
958
00:48:05,802 --> 00:48:09,097
those are pretty
major operations.
959
00:48:09,097 --> 00:48:13,184
She's an elite athlete,
and I think she probably,
960
00:48:13,184 --> 00:48:17,897
like me, recovers faster
than most people.
961
00:48:17,897 --> 00:48:21,693
Hopefully, I'll be ready
to go to Mexico in April.
962
00:48:21,693 --> 00:48:23,361
You'll see how it goes.
963
00:48:23,361 --> 00:48:26,197
I think it's not bad
to go and look at it
964
00:48:26,197 --> 00:48:29,367
and suss it out
and check it out and,
965
00:48:29,367 --> 00:48:31,953
you know,
do a survey and, like,
966
00:48:31,953 --> 00:48:33,413
maybe climb some pitches.
967
00:48:33,413 --> 00:48:36,875
But I don't expect you
to complete it.
968
00:48:36,875 --> 00:48:41,254
[breathing heavily]
969
00:48:41,254 --> 00:48:48,303
♪ ♪
970
00:48:55,352 --> 00:48:57,145
You know, I went to Boulder,
and I spent time with her,
971
00:48:57,145 --> 00:49:00,065
like, watching her recovery,
and, like,
972
00:49:00,065 --> 00:49:03,068
she was a long ways away
973
00:49:03,068 --> 00:49:05,111
from getting
to the point where
974
00:49:05,111 --> 00:49:07,238
she could do
Logical Progression.
975
00:49:07,238 --> 00:49:08,239
♪ ♪
976
00:49:08,239 --> 00:49:10,742
For the last year,
she's been sitting still
977
00:49:10,742 --> 00:49:12,243
and waiting
and trying to heal.
978
00:49:12,243 --> 00:49:15,205
Like, I know she needs this.
979
00:49:15,205 --> 00:49:17,957
She needs a challenge that's
not just a small challenge.
980
00:49:17,957 --> 00:49:19,417
She needs something that,
like,
981
00:49:19,417 --> 00:49:24,005
is just on the ragged edge
of insanity.
982
00:49:24,005 --> 00:49:25,382
It's binary for her.
983
00:49:25,382 --> 00:49:26,383
Like, this is it.
984
00:49:26,383 --> 00:49:28,551
Like, she's either going
to do this and pull it off
985
00:49:28,551 --> 00:49:31,596
and she's back,
or she's not going to do it,
986
00:49:31,596 --> 00:49:34,683
and these hip surgeries
were the end of her
987
00:49:34,683 --> 00:49:35,809
professional climbing.
988
00:49:35,809 --> 00:49:38,603
Like, it almost feels like
she's that fixated on it.
989
00:49:38,603 --> 00:49:40,188
♪ ♪
990
00:49:40,188 --> 00:49:43,274
Getting on challenging climbs
991
00:49:43,274 --> 00:49:45,694
is good for me,
because then I just get
992
00:49:45,694 --> 00:49:48,279
that fitness and power back.
993
00:49:48,279 --> 00:49:51,241
It's, like, a humbling
experience, I think.
994
00:49:51,241 --> 00:49:54,327
I mean, I'm just so happy
to be back on rock,
995
00:49:54,327 --> 00:50:00,458
but I don't feel my most
in shape or anything like that.
996
00:50:00,458 --> 00:50:04,129
And remembering that I did
go through five surgeries
997
00:50:04,129 --> 00:50:06,506
and a lot of time
off climbing,
998
00:50:06,506 --> 00:50:09,259
like, it's important for me
to remember that.
999
00:50:09,259 --> 00:50:10,301
♪ ♪
1000
00:50:10,301 --> 00:50:13,096
Returning to
Logical Progression for me
1001
00:50:13,096 --> 00:50:16,850
is how I could get back
and through
1002
00:50:16,850 --> 00:50:20,645
this really trying time
in my own life.
1003
00:50:20,645 --> 00:50:23,732
♪ ♪
1004
00:50:23,732 --> 00:50:27,652
Me, I would have delayed
Mexico a couple of months.
1005
00:50:27,652 --> 00:50:28,987
I've never made her decisions.
1006
00:50:28,987 --> 00:50:30,905
She knows when she's ready.
1007
00:50:30,905 --> 00:50:33,324
If she says she's ready,
she's ready.
1008
00:50:35,577 --> 00:50:39,622
Sasha called me to ask me to
be a part of this expedition
1009
00:50:39,622 --> 00:50:42,417
to Logical Progression.
1010
00:50:42,417 --> 00:50:45,003
The problem was,
I wasn't really thinking
1011
00:50:45,003 --> 00:50:47,088
about climbing at that level.
1012
00:50:47,088 --> 00:50:49,174
It could have been
a great adventure
1013
00:50:49,174 --> 00:50:51,384
but just wasn't the time
for me.
1014
00:50:51,384 --> 00:50:52,427
Nice.
1015
00:50:52,427 --> 00:50:54,429
I knew Sasha
was disappointed,
1016
00:50:54,429 --> 00:50:59,476
but I had to follow
my instincts.
1017
00:50:59,476 --> 00:51:05,357
I feel like we've got
everything in place.
1018
00:51:05,357 --> 00:51:10,737
And yeah, if you have a
last-minute change of heart--
1019
00:51:10,737 --> 00:51:11,821
Okay, I'm going.
1020
00:51:11,821 --> 00:51:13,573
Yeah, you're like,
"Guys, wait."
1021
00:51:13,573 --> 00:51:16,701
[laughter]
1022
00:51:16,701 --> 00:51:19,662
[light music]
1023
00:51:19,662 --> 00:51:24,209
♪ ♪
1024
00:51:24,209 --> 00:51:26,086
[indistinct chatter]
1025
00:51:26,086 --> 00:51:28,922
Dude,
less than two weeks out.
1026
00:51:28,922 --> 00:51:32,384
We can find
another spot, right?
1027
00:51:32,384 --> 00:51:34,969
So, Vian,
you want to go first?
1028
00:51:34,969 --> 00:51:36,262
No, you can go first
if you want.
1029
00:51:36,262 --> 00:51:37,263
You're tying in.
You go.
1030
00:51:37,263 --> 00:51:38,390
I know, but you want to go?
1031
00:51:38,390 --> 00:51:40,308
Vian's a badass climber.
1032
00:51:40,308 --> 00:51:44,145
And I've known her
for over ten years.
1033
00:51:44,145 --> 00:51:48,066
And we met when she stole
my Swedish Fish at the crag.
1034
00:51:48,066 --> 00:51:50,985
You just have to tell
everybody that,
1035
00:51:50,985 --> 00:51:54,030
like I'm a Swedish Fish thief
or something.
1036
00:51:54,030 --> 00:51:55,073
It was one time.
1037
00:51:55,073 --> 00:51:56,574
I never did it again.
1038
00:51:56,574 --> 00:51:58,618
[laughs]
1039
00:52:00,912 --> 00:52:04,582
11, including--
1040
00:52:06,334 --> 00:52:10,588
Vian said she could
maybe make Mexico work.
1041
00:52:10,588 --> 00:52:15,427
You're actually, like, the
first person that when I said,
1042
00:52:15,427 --> 00:52:17,345
like, anything about
Mexico that's actually
1043
00:52:17,345 --> 00:52:20,598
expressed enthusiasm
around going.
1044
00:52:20,598 --> 00:52:21,599
But I'm down.
1045
00:52:21,599 --> 00:52:24,269
[laughs]
1046
00:52:24,269 --> 00:52:26,104
We'll be safe.
Okay, I got to get going.
1047
00:52:26,104 --> 00:52:28,023
- Okay.
- You clipping this?
1048
00:52:28,023 --> 00:52:29,357
You want a stick clip?
1049
00:52:29,357 --> 00:52:30,442
But I have one too.
1050
00:52:30,442 --> 00:52:32,193
We're talking about, like,
weeks away
1051
00:52:32,193 --> 00:52:33,611
from this expedition.
1052
00:52:33,611 --> 00:52:37,115
And I come back from work,
and she's like,
1053
00:52:37,115 --> 00:52:38,116
"Vian wants to go."
1054
00:52:38,116 --> 00:52:39,951
And I'm like, "Who is Vian?"
1055
00:52:39,951 --> 00:52:42,287
I've never even heard of Vian.
1056
00:52:42,287 --> 00:52:44,456
I mean, as I understand it,
like,
1057
00:52:44,456 --> 00:52:47,417
Vian hasn't done
a big wall before.
1058
00:52:55,800 --> 00:52:58,386
The first time I met anybody,
like, "famous,"
1059
00:52:58,386 --> 00:53:00,138
it was actually Sasha.
1060
00:53:00,138 --> 00:53:02,766
And I just, like,
went up and introduced myself.
1061
00:53:02,766 --> 00:53:03,975
I was like, "Hi, I'm Vian."
1062
00:53:03,975 --> 00:53:05,769
And, like,
we hit it off really well,
1063
00:53:05,769 --> 00:53:08,313
and we were both climbing
in the Pipe Dream a lot,
1064
00:53:08,313 --> 00:53:12,484
and we were just, like,
good friends after that.
1065
00:53:12,484 --> 00:53:15,862
But yeah, I don't know
what really inspires me.
1066
00:53:15,862 --> 00:53:19,407
I can't say for sure,
like, why I climb, like,
1067
00:53:19,407 --> 00:53:22,118
there's some grand thing
behind it.
1068
00:53:22,118 --> 00:53:24,704
I'm just kind of compelled.
1069
00:53:24,704 --> 00:53:26,456
♪ ♪
1070
00:53:26,456 --> 00:53:30,251
I never had the ambition
to be a professional climber,
1071
00:53:30,251 --> 00:53:34,547
and I would never
want to be famous.
1072
00:53:34,547 --> 00:53:38,051
I would not be able
to put on a happy face
1073
00:53:38,051 --> 00:53:42,514
if I had to go to a crag and
there were ten people there
1074
00:53:42,514 --> 00:53:44,808
who knew who I was
and expected me to climb
1075
00:53:44,808 --> 00:53:48,728
really hard
and take photos with them.
1076
00:53:48,728 --> 00:53:53,858
I think Sasha's handled fame
with a lot of grace and class.
1077
00:53:53,858 --> 00:53:57,696
She's a really public figure,
and so a lot of shade
1078
00:53:57,696 --> 00:53:59,906
gets thrown her way.
1079
00:53:59,906 --> 00:54:05,704
I told Sasha, heavy is the
head that wears the crown.
1080
00:54:05,704 --> 00:54:08,707
[gentle music]
1081
00:54:08,707 --> 00:54:15,714
♪ ♪
1082
00:54:19,718 --> 00:54:24,514
I was stubborn, independent.
1083
00:54:24,514 --> 00:54:27,017
I guess it's just
the way that I am.
1084
00:54:27,017 --> 00:54:29,811
♪ ♪
1085
00:54:29,811 --> 00:54:33,565
I think I got a lot
of my ability to not see no
1086
00:54:33,565 --> 00:54:37,193
as an option from my dad.
1087
00:54:37,193 --> 00:54:39,738
♪ ♪
1088
00:54:39,738 --> 00:54:42,407
Was always, "See the light
at the end of the tunnel,
1089
00:54:42,407 --> 00:54:45,410
and that's the option that
you're going to arrive at."
1090
00:54:45,410 --> 00:54:47,078
There's going to be roadblocks
along the way,
1091
00:54:47,078 --> 00:54:50,582
but it's always going to be
leading towards this goal.
1092
00:54:50,582 --> 00:54:54,544
And then it's, by any means
possible, achieve it.
1093
00:54:54,544 --> 00:54:56,421
♪ ♪
1094
00:54:56,421 --> 00:54:59,758
When I was 22,
my dad took me to the airport
1095
00:54:59,758 --> 00:55:03,553
to fly to Wyoming,
our little tradition.
1096
00:55:03,553 --> 00:55:05,597
♪ ♪
1097
00:55:05,597 --> 00:55:07,432
I was climbing in Wyoming,
1098
00:55:07,432 --> 00:55:09,351
and my mom called me
to tell me
1099
00:55:09,351 --> 00:55:12,020
that my dad had had a stroke.
1100
00:55:12,020 --> 00:55:13,104
♪ ♪
1101
00:55:13,104 --> 00:55:16,900
I flew back immediately,
was there in the hospital.
1102
00:55:16,900 --> 00:55:18,151
♪ ♪
1103
00:55:18,151 --> 00:55:20,403
And we were asking all these
questions about what his state
1104
00:55:20,403 --> 00:55:23,907
would be when he woke up,
and the surgeon was like,
1105
00:55:23,907 --> 00:55:27,410
"You're not asking
the right questions."
1106
00:55:27,410 --> 00:55:30,163
He never woke up.
1107
00:55:30,163 --> 00:55:34,084
♪ ♪
1108
00:55:34,084 --> 00:55:40,548
I mean, I felt the most gutted
that I have felt in my life.
1109
00:55:40,548 --> 00:55:43,134
My response was just
to suppress all my feelings
1110
00:55:43,134 --> 00:55:47,764
and just keep going, because
that's what I knew how to do.
1111
00:55:53,812 --> 00:55:57,857
The first time I met Sasha,
she had just lost her father,
1112
00:55:57,857 --> 00:56:02,487
and she gave a presentation
that was so, like, together.
1113
00:56:02,487 --> 00:56:04,698
Like,
she didn't cry or anything.
1114
00:56:04,698 --> 00:56:07,575
And it just made me think,
"Wow, she's really good
1115
00:56:07,575 --> 00:56:10,578
"at compartmentalizing
her emotions
1116
00:56:10,578 --> 00:56:12,997
and setting that
off to the side,"
1117
00:56:12,997 --> 00:56:16,376
which you do have to do
on a scary route sometimes.
1118
00:56:16,376 --> 00:56:18,420
You have to just say,
"Okay, I'm really scared,
1119
00:56:18,420 --> 00:56:22,257
but I can't focus on that."
1120
00:56:22,257 --> 00:56:25,343
[birds chirping]
1121
00:56:25,343 --> 00:56:26,469
- What's up, dude?
- What's up?
1122
00:56:26,469 --> 00:56:28,346
Dude,
we're going to Mexico today.
1123
00:56:28,346 --> 00:56:29,389
Yeah.
1124
00:56:29,389 --> 00:56:30,932
Okay, I'm going to--
1125
00:56:30,932 --> 00:56:31,808
I'll be in--
1126
00:56:31,808 --> 00:56:33,518
I'll go get the bars too.
- Okay.
1127
00:56:33,518 --> 00:56:35,311
Feel free
to come inside whenever.
1128
00:56:35,311 --> 00:56:36,438
Come on, Moose.
1129
00:56:36,438 --> 00:56:38,356
Wednesday,
we arrive to Chihuahua.
1130
00:56:38,356 --> 00:56:41,651
Thursday, we drive
from Chihuahua to Basaseachi.
1131
00:56:41,651 --> 00:56:46,031
Friday, we drive to the top of
the wall and rapp down to here.
1132
00:56:46,031 --> 00:56:47,407
Down to the bottom.
1133
00:56:47,407 --> 00:56:50,243
I was really excited
to do a big wall.
1134
00:56:50,243 --> 00:56:53,371
I had never been
on a big wall before.
1135
00:56:53,371 --> 00:56:58,376
I thought 300 bolts,
portaledge, no problem.
1136
00:56:58,376 --> 00:57:01,755
I'd known Vian
for about a decade.
1137
00:57:01,755 --> 00:57:06,301
She climbs super hard,
and she's been an incredibly
1138
00:57:06,301 --> 00:57:07,635
supportive and loyal friend.
1139
00:57:07,635 --> 00:57:10,221
And so I was excited
by the idea
1140
00:57:10,221 --> 00:57:11,431
of getting to know her better
1141
00:57:11,431 --> 00:57:13,808
and going on
this big adventure with her.
1142
00:57:15,727 --> 00:57:17,687
Oh,
she's got something equivalent.
1143
00:57:17,687 --> 00:57:19,689
Sasha's never been
in this much pain.
1144
00:57:19,689 --> 00:57:21,566
She's never been
in a situation
1145
00:57:21,566 --> 00:57:25,028
where she's this out of shape
before a climb.
1146
00:57:25,028 --> 00:57:28,990
And seeing this audacious goal
that she's thrown on herself,
1147
00:57:28,990 --> 00:57:30,533
it's just scary.
1148
00:57:30,533 --> 00:57:35,830
And I think everyone
that loves her is terrified.
1149
00:57:35,830 --> 00:57:37,082
[tense music]
1150
00:57:37,082 --> 00:57:40,752
She needs to go prove
to herself that she's still
1151
00:57:40,752 --> 00:57:45,298
a professional climber,
that this injury hasn't
1152
00:57:45,298 --> 00:57:49,010
ripped away her identity.
1153
00:57:49,010 --> 00:57:51,846
I don't know where you click
into that drive and that fire,
1154
00:57:51,846 --> 00:57:55,141
but she has it,
and she clicks into it.
1155
00:57:55,141 --> 00:57:57,102
It's why she is who she is.
1156
00:57:57,102 --> 00:58:04,109
♪ ♪
1157
00:58:05,235 --> 00:58:08,446
Why I do what I do?
1158
00:58:08,446 --> 00:58:12,075
That's a big question.
1159
00:58:12,075 --> 00:58:15,161
♪ ♪
1160
00:58:15,161 --> 00:58:21,418
I think that proving a goal,
that's what drives me.
1161
00:58:21,418 --> 00:58:28,466
♪ ♪
1162
00:58:28,633 --> 00:58:30,176
I'm nervous for the rappel
more than the climb
1163
00:58:30,176 --> 00:58:34,305
right now, because that's
what's the first thing to do,
1164
00:58:34,305 --> 00:58:36,099
and it's a lot of weight.
1165
00:58:36,099 --> 00:58:40,562
It's, like, maybe more weight
than I'm used to rapping with.
1166
00:58:40,562 --> 00:58:42,397
You got this.
1167
00:58:42,397 --> 00:58:43,398
Thanks, Vian.
1168
00:58:43,398 --> 00:58:45,025
Mm-hmm.
1169
00:58:45,025 --> 00:58:47,527
Achieving something
eats away at me.
1170
00:58:47,527 --> 00:58:53,616
Like, that's the way
that I approach my life.
1171
00:58:58,371 --> 00:58:59,372
Yeah.
1172
00:58:59,372 --> 00:59:00,331
The death of my hips.
1173
00:59:00,331 --> 00:59:01,583
Ohh.
1174
00:59:02,500 --> 00:59:05,420
Ow, my fingers.
1175
00:59:05,420 --> 00:59:07,464
I hate this bag.
1176
00:59:07,464 --> 00:59:10,800
We've officially started
the descent down.
1177
00:59:10,800 --> 00:59:15,430
We all have
pretty heavy haul bags.
1178
00:59:15,430 --> 00:59:21,061
And yeah, it's pretty
phenomenal being here.
1179
00:59:21,061 --> 00:59:24,064
[light music]
1180
00:59:24,064 --> 00:59:31,112
♪ ♪
1181
00:59:32,280 --> 00:59:36,659
The hips are so sore.
1182
00:59:36,659 --> 00:59:40,872
That's pretty.
1183
00:59:40,872 --> 00:59:42,832
- Yeah.
- Do you copy?
1184
00:59:42,832 --> 00:59:46,670
After a night of no sleep,
we're racking up to rapp down
1185
00:59:46,670 --> 00:59:48,463
these first eight pitches.
1186
00:59:48,463 --> 00:59:55,720
♪ ♪
1187
00:59:57,722 --> 01:00:00,350
Made it to the bottom.
1188
01:00:00,350 --> 01:00:01,434
We're at the bottom.
1189
01:00:01,434 --> 01:00:03,353
Do you want to go first,
or should I?
1190
01:00:03,353 --> 01:00:05,063
Whatever.
Want to Roshambo for it?
1191
01:00:05,063 --> 01:00:06,648
Yeah.
1192
01:00:06,648 --> 01:00:14,989
Rock, paper, scissors, shoot.
1193
01:00:14,989 --> 01:00:16,116
I go first.
1194
01:00:16,116 --> 01:00:23,164
♪ ♪
1195
01:00:24,624 --> 01:00:28,545
Top of the second,
pulling Vian up.
1196
01:00:28,545 --> 01:00:30,588
There she is.
1197
01:00:30,588 --> 01:00:33,842
This is what's ahead of us.
1198
01:00:33,842 --> 01:00:37,303
♪ ♪
1199
01:00:37,303 --> 01:00:38,847
We'll see how it goes.
1200
01:00:38,847 --> 01:00:45,895
♪ ♪
1201
01:00:59,117 --> 01:01:02,662
We are here sitting
forever in the sun.
1202
01:01:02,662 --> 01:01:03,997
There's the sun.
1203
01:01:03,997 --> 01:01:05,248
Ow.
1204
01:01:05,248 --> 01:01:06,583
That hurt your eyes, didn't it?
You weren't expecting that.
1205
01:01:06,583 --> 01:01:10,587
You two would have been
like fried chicken.
1206
01:01:10,587 --> 01:01:12,589
It was definitely
really hot.
1207
01:01:12,589 --> 01:01:15,342
The sun is just baking,
and the rock temperature
1208
01:01:15,342 --> 01:01:17,177
just goes way up.
1209
01:01:17,177 --> 01:01:19,596
And it's just a lot harder
when the rock temperature
1210
01:01:19,596 --> 01:01:22,515
is a lot higher.
1211
01:01:22,515 --> 01:01:27,354
And it's so hot right now.
1212
01:01:41,534 --> 01:01:44,496
[tense music]
1213
01:01:44,496 --> 01:01:51,711
♪ ♪
1214
01:01:55,173 --> 01:01:57,217
Come on,
work that right foot in.
1215
01:01:57,217 --> 01:02:00,095
Come on, Digi, come on.
1216
01:02:00,095 --> 01:02:02,514
♪ ♪
1217
01:02:02,514 --> 01:02:03,515
Ahh!
1218
01:02:03,515 --> 01:02:04,766
Oh, shit.
1219
01:02:04,766 --> 01:02:07,602
Fuck.
- All right.
1220
01:02:07,602 --> 01:02:13,233
♪ ♪
1221
01:02:13,233 --> 01:02:16,611
Right foot high.
1222
01:02:16,611 --> 01:02:20,240
[exhales]
1223
01:02:20,240 --> 01:02:22,492
[groans]
1224
01:02:22,492 --> 01:02:29,541
♪ ♪
1225
01:02:31,459 --> 01:02:34,337
I see the next draw.
1226
01:02:34,337 --> 01:02:38,717
[exhales]
1227
01:02:38,717 --> 01:02:43,263
♪ ♪
1228
01:02:43,263 --> 01:02:46,224
[breathing heavily]
1229
01:02:46,224 --> 01:02:51,146
Okay. All right.
1230
01:02:51,146 --> 01:02:53,565
[exhales]
1231
01:02:53,565 --> 01:02:56,651
Okay.
1232
01:02:56,651 --> 01:03:01,656
♪ ♪
1233
01:03:01,656 --> 01:03:07,120
[indistinct].
1234
01:03:07,120 --> 01:03:08,747
Whoo!
1235
01:03:08,747 --> 01:03:11,750
I'm at the anchor.
1236
01:03:11,750 --> 01:03:14,544
Nice job.
1237
01:03:14,544 --> 01:03:18,423
Oh, my God.
1238
01:03:18,423 --> 01:03:20,342
I'm, like, shaking.
1239
01:03:20,342 --> 01:03:24,804
That's probably as hard
as I've ever seen her try.
1240
01:03:24,804 --> 01:03:28,391
And it just showed
to me how, like,
1241
01:03:28,391 --> 01:03:31,936
how fragile she was or how much
she just wanted this,
1242
01:03:31,936 --> 01:03:34,272
how badly she wanted this,
you know,
1243
01:03:34,272 --> 01:03:35,607
and for some people,
it's just, like,
1244
01:03:35,607 --> 01:03:36,608
it's just a climb,
you know.
1245
01:03:36,608 --> 01:03:39,277
It's okay to say-- to stop,
you know?
1246
01:03:39,277 --> 01:03:42,739
You know, you just-- you just
had surgery not that long ago.
1247
01:03:42,739 --> 01:03:45,450
It's, like, maybe it was too--
1248
01:03:45,450 --> 01:03:46,993
too early.
1249
01:03:46,993 --> 01:03:49,954
You know, but for Sasha,
she just really needed this.
1250
01:03:49,954 --> 01:03:52,374
What made you keep going?
1251
01:03:52,374 --> 01:03:53,792
I think I just--
1252
01:03:53,792 --> 01:03:56,961
I literally just could think
right foot,
1253
01:03:56,961 --> 01:04:00,924
right hand,
left foot, left hand.
1254
01:04:00,924 --> 01:04:04,511
Like, I couldn't think
of anything else.
1255
01:04:04,511 --> 01:04:06,888
And then I was like,
you made it through the crux.
1256
01:04:06,888 --> 01:04:09,099
Like, just keep it together.
1257
01:04:09,099 --> 01:04:11,476
It'll be one less pitch
for tomorrow.
1258
01:04:11,476 --> 01:04:14,479
[birds chirping]
1259
01:04:18,817 --> 01:04:21,111
Day three, we don't know
whose spoon this is.
1260
01:04:21,111 --> 01:04:22,028
That's all.
1261
01:04:22,028 --> 01:04:23,738
I wasn't trying to, like--
1262
01:04:23,738 --> 01:04:25,323
Day three, I don't know
whose spoon this is.
1263
01:04:25,323 --> 01:04:26,658
I wasn't trying to make
you feel bad or anything.
1264
01:04:26,658 --> 01:04:28,952
That'd be my spoon,
but we can share.
1265
01:04:28,952 --> 01:04:30,829
Sharing is caring.
1266
01:04:30,829 --> 01:04:32,747
Man, I'm, like,
triple-fisting.
1267
01:04:32,747 --> 01:04:35,500
I got my dirty Chai
with collagen,
1268
01:04:35,500 --> 01:04:39,754
my trail mix, and my Red Bull.
1269
01:04:39,754 --> 01:04:41,840
Mm-hmm.
1270
01:04:41,840 --> 01:04:44,801
And Kevin's over there
taking a shit.
1271
01:04:44,801 --> 01:04:47,846
Kevin?
1272
01:04:47,846 --> 01:04:50,348
We're just one big,
happy family.
1273
01:04:50,348 --> 01:04:52,434
[light music]
1274
01:04:52,434 --> 01:04:58,773
After my surgeries,
I lost touch with who I was.
1275
01:04:58,773 --> 01:05:01,067
♪ ♪
1276
01:05:01,067 --> 01:05:05,947
And I lost touch with what it
even feels like to succeed.
1277
01:05:05,947 --> 01:05:08,408
During the whole time
of being injured,
1278
01:05:08,408 --> 01:05:11,536
I didn't have
any feeling of success.
1279
01:05:11,536 --> 01:05:13,246
♪ ♪
1280
01:05:13,246 --> 01:05:15,540
You got it.
1281
01:05:15,540 --> 01:05:16,583
Left hand up.
1282
01:05:16,583 --> 01:05:19,377
I put my right foot high.
1283
01:05:19,377 --> 01:05:20,712
Yeah.
1284
01:05:20,712 --> 01:05:22,672
[indistinct].
1285
01:05:22,672 --> 01:05:26,176
Two finger,
get your right foot up.
1286
01:05:26,176 --> 01:05:30,221
♪ ♪
1287
01:05:30,221 --> 01:05:32,724
We got into a situation
where we had to climb
1288
01:05:32,724 --> 01:05:35,393
a little bit at night.
1289
01:05:35,393 --> 01:05:39,397
And we went into the area
where Nolan had his accident.
1290
01:05:39,397 --> 01:05:41,441
And I know Sasha didn't want
to climb
1291
01:05:41,441 --> 01:05:43,151
that pitch in the dark.
1292
01:05:43,151 --> 01:05:48,114
It was pretty scary.
1293
01:05:48,114 --> 01:05:53,870
I just passed Nolan's
rock scar where the rock broke.
1294
01:05:53,870 --> 01:05:57,165
It's pretty visible,
but I couldn't see
1295
01:05:57,165 --> 01:05:58,416
what happened with the bolt.
1296
01:05:58,416 --> 01:06:01,628
My guess would be
that really big rock
1297
01:06:01,628 --> 01:06:04,089
picked off and cut his rope.
1298
01:06:04,089 --> 01:06:07,300
It was really scary,
because as I was passing that,
1299
01:06:07,300 --> 01:06:11,763
my headlamp flashed
that it was dying.
1300
01:06:11,763 --> 01:06:16,768
♪ ♪
1301
01:06:16,768 --> 01:06:21,481
Nolan didn't make
any mistakes,
1302
01:06:21,481 --> 01:06:25,110
yet he died climbing.
1303
01:06:25,110 --> 01:06:28,488
It affected me
in a really heavy way,
1304
01:06:28,488 --> 01:06:32,450
because everything
was done right.
1305
01:06:32,450 --> 01:06:39,499
♪ ♪
1306
01:06:41,376 --> 01:06:44,462
So many nights
of not sleeping is killing me.
1307
01:06:44,462 --> 01:06:46,923
I think I was in the harness
for 20 hours.
1308
01:06:46,923 --> 01:06:51,886
We've got three more
really long 5.12 pitches
1309
01:06:51,886 --> 01:06:54,889
that we need to do tomorrow
to then kind of
1310
01:06:54,889 --> 01:06:59,644
be back in the running to feel
like the rest of this route
1311
01:06:59,644 --> 01:07:03,189
is possible on free.
1312
01:07:09,279 --> 01:07:11,322
I went left foot pocket.
1313
01:07:11,322 --> 01:07:14,034
Yeah.
1314
01:07:17,579 --> 01:07:19,873
Augh! God!
1315
01:07:19,873 --> 01:07:21,666
That's a really hard
transition.
1316
01:07:21,666 --> 01:07:22,709
It's hard.
1317
01:07:24,627 --> 01:07:26,296
Nice.
1318
01:07:26,296 --> 01:07:28,465
[grunts]
1319
01:07:28,465 --> 01:07:30,425
Good job.
1320
01:07:30,425 --> 01:07:31,426
Fuck, yeah.
1321
01:07:31,426 --> 01:07:32,427
Hell, yeah.
1322
01:07:32,427 --> 01:07:36,097
Good job.
1323
01:07:36,097 --> 01:07:38,683
- Pitch 13.
- Done.
1324
01:07:38,683 --> 01:07:39,809
[chuckles]
1325
01:07:39,809 --> 01:07:41,686
[laughs]
1326
01:07:41,686 --> 01:07:44,689
Strenuous 45 minutes.
1327
01:07:44,689 --> 01:07:48,902
Holy guacamole.
1328
01:07:48,902 --> 01:07:50,278
Ohh.
1329
01:07:50,278 --> 01:07:53,031
Another pitch bites the dust.
1330
01:07:53,031 --> 01:07:56,117
So we've officially
crossed this side.
1331
01:07:56,117 --> 01:08:01,373
Now we're coming up
to finger to fist, route 17.
1332
01:08:03,083 --> 01:08:06,836
Going to--
1333
01:08:08,630 --> 01:08:14,886
[grunting]
1334
01:08:22,644 --> 01:08:24,813
Oh, yeah, we're going
to do the Spread Eagle.
1335
01:08:24,813 --> 01:08:25,814
Augh!
1336
01:08:25,814 --> 01:08:26,815
[laughs]
1337
01:08:26,815 --> 01:08:27,899
Ahh!
1338
01:08:27,899 --> 01:08:29,192
Augh.
1339
01:08:29,192 --> 01:08:32,570
That was a serious crag.
1340
01:08:37,409 --> 01:08:38,660
Augh!
1341
01:08:38,660 --> 01:08:40,578
[laughs]
1342
01:08:40,578 --> 01:08:41,705
Yeah, girl.
1343
01:08:41,705 --> 01:08:42,997
Augh!
1344
01:08:42,997 --> 01:08:48,378
Yes, sun.
1345
01:08:48,378 --> 01:08:49,504
Whoo.
1346
01:08:49,504 --> 01:08:51,339
Yeah. Okay.
1347
01:08:51,339 --> 01:08:52,507
That's it.
- Whoo!
1348
01:08:52,507 --> 01:08:54,592
Whoo!
1349
01:08:54,592 --> 01:08:56,886
Pow!
1350
01:08:56,886 --> 01:08:58,638
You're a good lead.
1351
01:08:58,638 --> 01:09:00,390
Thanks.
1352
01:09:00,390 --> 01:09:01,474
Move.
1353
01:09:01,474 --> 01:09:02,726
Am I in your face
with my butt?
1354
01:09:02,726 --> 01:09:03,768
Oh!
1355
01:09:03,768 --> 01:09:04,853
Jesus.
1356
01:09:04,853 --> 01:09:06,563
That thing did look good.
1357
01:09:06,563 --> 01:09:09,065
Sure wasn't, though.
1358
01:09:09,065 --> 01:09:12,068
[tense music]
1359
01:09:12,068 --> 01:09:13,945
♪ ♪
1360
01:09:13,945 --> 01:09:16,698
Just a little choss left.
1361
01:09:16,698 --> 01:09:19,826
I'm trying, Mom.
1362
01:09:19,826 --> 01:09:21,786
[laughs]
1363
01:09:21,786 --> 01:09:23,788
Got your spot.
1364
01:09:23,788 --> 01:09:25,331
I actually just did.
1365
01:09:25,331 --> 01:09:27,667
I think it saved you.
1366
01:09:27,667 --> 01:09:34,758
♪ ♪
1367
01:09:41,306 --> 01:09:42,223
Stay with it.
1368
01:09:42,223 --> 01:09:43,808
You got it.
1369
01:09:43,808 --> 01:09:48,063
[breathing heavily]
1370
01:09:48,063 --> 01:09:49,022
Nice, Sasha.
1371
01:09:49,022 --> 01:09:53,818
Come on.
1372
01:09:53,818 --> 01:09:58,823
Ahh! Fuck.
1373
01:09:58,823 --> 01:09:59,824
Nothing broke.
1374
01:09:59,824 --> 01:10:00,825
Nothing.
1375
01:10:00,825 --> 01:10:01,826
So much stuff broke.
1376
01:10:01,826 --> 01:10:04,245
It's so hard there.
1377
01:10:04,245 --> 01:10:05,955
Try that again.
1378
01:10:05,955 --> 01:10:06,956
Okay.
1379
01:10:06,956 --> 01:10:08,249
Ahh!
1380
01:10:08,249 --> 01:10:10,043
Such a big move.
1381
01:10:10,043 --> 01:10:11,044
Yeah.
1382
01:10:11,044 --> 01:10:12,587
Holy shit.
1383
01:10:12,587 --> 01:10:15,048
Yeah.
1384
01:10:15,048 --> 01:10:16,216
♪ ♪
1385
01:10:16,216 --> 01:10:19,719
Man, I thought I could
get that last pitch.
1386
01:10:19,719 --> 01:10:23,515
Such a bummer.
1387
01:10:23,515 --> 01:10:26,518
If it sticks once,
it won't be as good.
1388
01:10:26,518 --> 01:10:31,815
So start in the back
and then end in the back.
1389
01:10:33,483 --> 01:10:38,697
I'm just like
your personal assistant here.
1390
01:10:38,697 --> 01:10:40,198
[laughs]
1391
01:10:40,198 --> 01:10:42,450
No, I said,
you're my best friend.
1392
01:10:42,450 --> 01:10:43,827
- Okay.
- Short of Moose.
1393
01:10:43,827 --> 01:10:46,246
You tell that to all
your climbing partners.
1394
01:10:46,246 --> 01:10:48,998
I don't have
climbing partners.
1395
01:10:54,212 --> 01:10:57,340
When I met her
in 2011 when she was 16,
1396
01:10:57,340 --> 01:11:01,720
she was very much
a protected kid.
1397
01:11:01,720 --> 01:11:07,892
♪ ♪
1398
01:11:07,892 --> 01:11:13,648
But now Sasha is so strong,
and she's capable of anything.
1399
01:11:13,648 --> 01:11:20,697
♪ ♪
1400
01:11:24,075 --> 01:11:28,538
And I'll just climb over here.
1401
01:11:28,538 --> 01:11:35,587
♪ ♪
1402
01:12:01,279 --> 01:12:04,949
After my dad died,
1403
01:12:04,949 --> 01:12:07,827
I recognized that you're
mourning this space
1404
01:12:07,827 --> 01:12:12,290
that they left behind.
1405
01:12:12,290 --> 01:12:14,501
And that space
that they leave behind is--
1406
01:12:14,501 --> 01:12:16,461
it's really painful
to think about, like,
1407
01:12:16,461 --> 01:12:21,466
it never being filled again.
1408
01:12:21,466 --> 01:12:25,303
That space is what
I keep trying to fill.
1409
01:12:25,303 --> 01:12:28,264
[inspirational music]
1410
01:12:28,264 --> 01:12:35,480
♪ ♪
1411
01:12:45,990 --> 01:12:48,827
We did it.
1412
01:12:48,827 --> 01:12:54,791
♪ ♪
1413
01:12:54,791 --> 01:12:58,420
It's kind of crazy.
1414
01:12:58,420 --> 01:13:02,507
I didn't even know
if I'd be climbing again
1415
01:13:02,507 --> 01:13:06,261
when I went in
for all those surgeries.
1416
01:13:06,261 --> 01:13:07,345
I really didn't.
1417
01:13:07,345 --> 01:13:11,057
I didn't know what to expect.
1418
01:13:11,057 --> 01:13:13,643
[chuckles]
1419
01:13:13,643 --> 01:13:16,688
[sobbing]
1420
01:13:26,531 --> 01:13:29,617
[light music]
1421
01:13:29,617 --> 01:13:36,666
♪ ♪
1422
01:13:44,507 --> 01:13:46,593
Climbing's opened
a lot of doors for me
1423
01:13:46,593 --> 01:13:48,261
to go down this journey...
1424
01:13:48,261 --> 01:13:51,556
♪ ♪
1425
01:13:51,556 --> 01:13:54,392
But also to realize that
a lot of satisfaction
1426
01:13:54,392 --> 01:13:57,687
and joy that I get
out of life
1427
01:13:57,687 --> 01:13:58,980
doesn't need to always come
1428
01:13:58,980 --> 01:14:03,651
from the physical sense
of sending.
1429
01:14:03,651 --> 01:14:08,365
And my path forward
doesn't necessarily center
1430
01:14:08,365 --> 01:14:10,283
around climbing.
1431
01:14:10,283 --> 01:14:16,039
♪ A million little knives ♪
1432
01:14:16,039 --> 01:14:17,957
♪ Carve out your name ♪
1433
01:14:17,957 --> 01:14:21,336
[all shouting]
1434
01:14:21,336 --> 01:14:25,632
♪ In the small of my back ♪
1435
01:14:25,632 --> 01:14:29,052
I needed to learn
purpose beyond a wall.
1436
01:14:29,052 --> 01:14:33,056
And I think that that does
come with a sense of security.
1437
01:14:33,056 --> 01:14:35,725
And I would argue
that it comes with a sense
1438
01:14:35,725 --> 01:14:40,855
of career and sense of home.
1439
01:14:40,855 --> 01:14:43,900
♪ ♪
1440
01:14:43,900 --> 01:14:45,902
I didn't want to tell
the City of Boulder
1441
01:14:45,902 --> 01:14:48,530
that we're done,
because I just want
1442
01:14:48,530 --> 01:14:50,365
to be complete
with the whole project.
1443
01:14:50,365 --> 01:14:51,950
- Yeah.
- And at that point,
1444
01:14:51,950 --> 01:14:56,454
we can address this issue
of possibly changing the name,
1445
01:14:56,454 --> 01:14:59,624
because they have it registered
as Vamos Chicas.
1446
01:14:59,624 --> 01:15:03,211
And Queen Line
might be a better name
1447
01:15:03,211 --> 01:15:05,088
just because
it's on the maiden.
1448
01:15:05,088 --> 01:15:07,716
And it is the best line,
I think,
1449
01:15:07,716 --> 01:15:09,342
on that whole formation.
1450
01:15:09,342 --> 01:15:11,594
And you always hear
King Line.
1451
01:15:11,594 --> 01:15:13,054
- Yeah.
- Why not Queen Line?
1452
01:15:13,054 --> 01:15:14,139
Or, like, the queen.
1453
01:15:14,139 --> 01:15:16,141
The queen, the queens.
1454
01:15:16,141 --> 01:15:17,225
The queens.
1455
01:15:17,225 --> 01:15:19,602
Yeah, I like it, Queen Line.
1456
01:15:19,602 --> 01:15:24,315
I think it's a perfect name.
1457
01:15:24,315 --> 01:15:27,318
[light music]
1458
01:15:27,318 --> 01:15:29,821
♪ ♪
1459
01:15:29,821 --> 01:15:31,656
This is the day.
We're going to do it.
1460
01:15:31,656 --> 01:15:33,867
Let's go.
The queen on the line.
1461
01:15:33,867 --> 01:15:37,787
Ladies and gentlemen,
the first pitch.
1462
01:15:37,787 --> 01:15:40,415
Here we go.
1463
01:15:40,415 --> 01:15:42,709
♪ ♪
1464
01:15:42,709 --> 01:15:45,003
Lynn's shown to me
how to age gracefully
1465
01:15:45,003 --> 01:15:46,838
within the sport
and still be involved
1466
01:15:46,838 --> 01:15:51,968
and still be a steward
of the community
1467
01:15:51,968 --> 01:15:55,180
and be out there pushing
new lines
1468
01:15:55,180 --> 01:15:57,390
and supporting climbers.
1469
01:15:57,390 --> 01:16:04,647
♪ ♪
1470
01:16:19,662 --> 01:16:22,874
Sasha has a chance
to really look at periods
1471
01:16:22,874 --> 01:16:27,087
of life and what her
actual goals are..
1472
01:16:27,087 --> 01:16:30,173
♪ ♪
1473
01:16:30,173 --> 01:16:32,634
What she wants to do,
not what's expected of her,
1474
01:16:32,634 --> 01:16:36,554
but what she wants to do,
what makes her happy.
1475
01:16:36,554 --> 01:16:40,725
♪ ♪
1476
01:16:40,725 --> 01:16:42,811
She's young
and still ambitious
1477
01:16:42,811 --> 01:16:44,854
and wanting to do more
and more.
1478
01:16:44,854 --> 01:16:46,981
At 30,
she's still got a lot of time
1479
01:16:46,981 --> 01:16:51,236
to do a lot of really
amazing things.
1480
01:16:51,236 --> 01:16:58,284
♪ ♪
1481
01:17:00,120 --> 01:17:05,583
We each have
that thing that drives us.
1482
01:17:05,583 --> 01:17:07,377
And that thing
that drives us,
1483
01:17:07,377 --> 01:17:14,426
that passion is what I feel
really strongly about
1484
01:17:14,551 --> 01:17:18,763
harnessing and embracing and nurturing.
1485
01:17:18,763 --> 01:17:21,725
And that's more important
than any summit,
1486
01:17:21,725 --> 01:17:24,227
than any achievement.
1487
01:17:24,227 --> 01:17:31,276
♪ ♪
1488
01:17:37,240 --> 01:17:40,160
[Weval's "Days"]
1489
01:17:40,160 --> 01:17:47,208
♪ ♪
1490
01:17:53,631 --> 01:17:59,763
♪ No, no, no, no, no ♪
1491
01:17:59,763 --> 01:18:04,851
♪ And I will never be ♪
1492
01:18:04,851 --> 01:18:11,358
♪ And I will never see ♪
1493
01:18:11,358 --> 01:18:15,820
♪ And every choice I make ♪
1494
01:18:15,820 --> 01:18:21,409
♪ Consequences negative ♪
1495
01:18:21,409 --> 01:18:26,664
♪ Battle zone is known to me ♪
1496
01:18:26,664 --> 01:18:32,462
♪ And you to me ♪
1497
01:18:32,462 --> 01:18:37,300
♪ Most important feel, feel ♪
1498
01:18:37,300 --> 01:18:44,349
♪ ♪
1499
01:18:51,314 --> 01:18:52,649
♪ No, no, no, no, no, ♪
1500
01:18:52,649 --> 01:18:56,486
♪ No no, no, no,
no no, no, no, no ♪
1501
01:18:56,486 --> 01:18:58,530
[bright tone]