1 00:00:00,913 --> 00:00:03,525 [dramatic music playing] 2 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:07,000 Downloaded from YTS.MX 3 00:00:03,655 --> 00:00:05,396 [Peter Greenberg] It is known 4 00:00:05,527 --> 00:00:06,049 for one of the best preserved Roman ruins 5 00:00:06,180 --> 00:00:08,269 in the world. 6 00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:13,000 Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX 7 00:00:08,399 --> 00:00:10,358 But this isn't Italy. 8 00:00:14,101 --> 00:00:17,452 It's steeped in Greek mythology. 9 00:00:17,582 --> 00:00:19,845 A place where Homer's epics come to life. 10 00:00:22,283 --> 00:00:25,242 But it's not Greece. 11 00:00:25,373 --> 00:00:27,810 It's where a succession of historic empires 12 00:00:27,940 --> 00:00:29,333 have left their mark 13 00:00:30,900 --> 00:00:34,077 and pagan, Christian, Muslim 14 00:00:34,208 --> 00:00:36,645 and Jewish cultures have collided 15 00:00:36,775 --> 00:00:40,214 and coexisted. 16 00:00:40,344 --> 00:00:44,044 A sprawling coastline of incredible beauty, 17 00:00:44,174 --> 00:00:47,438 with stunning landscapes, endless beaches, 18 00:00:47,569 --> 00:00:50,006 and clear turquoise waters 19 00:00:50,137 --> 00:00:53,053 that have been traversed for millennia. 20 00:00:53,183 --> 00:00:56,317 Yet they're still waiting to be discovered. 21 00:00:56,447 --> 00:00:59,059 It's a destination that is equally alluring 22 00:00:59,189 --> 00:01:01,017 and surprising, 23 00:01:01,148 --> 00:01:02,584 where you can explore the past, 24 00:01:02,714 --> 00:01:04,586 live in the present, 25 00:01:04,716 --> 00:01:07,415 and ponder the future. 26 00:01:07,545 --> 00:01:09,460 I'm Peter Greenberg, 27 00:01:09,591 --> 00:01:12,594 and this is Turkey's Hidden Aegean. 28 00:01:15,336 --> 00:01:17,642 [relaxing music playing] 29 00:01:17,773 --> 00:01:22,125 Covering nearly 83,000 square miles, 30 00:01:22,256 --> 00:01:24,388 the Aegean Sea has supported 31 00:01:24,519 --> 00:01:29,001 some of the greatest civilizations in history. 32 00:01:29,132 --> 00:01:31,221 Including the Roman, Byzantine, 33 00:01:31,352 --> 00:01:32,266 and Ottoman empires. 34 00:01:35,182 --> 00:01:37,532 Surrounded by Greece to the north and west, 35 00:01:37,662 --> 00:01:40,056 and the Mediterranean to the south, 36 00:01:40,187 --> 00:01:44,495 the east shore of the Aegean is bounded by Turkey. 37 00:01:44,626 --> 00:01:48,543 This 1,700-mile-long stretch of coastline 38 00:01:48,673 --> 00:01:51,415 marks the western edge of Asia Minor, 39 00:01:51,546 --> 00:01:54,897 the Roman alias for the Anatolian peninsula, 40 00:01:55,027 --> 00:01:56,986 which has figured so prominently in history. 41 00:01:59,554 --> 00:02:02,078 But where ancient armies once marched and clashed, 42 00:02:04,341 --> 00:02:06,822 now only bracing winds off the Aegean 43 00:02:06,952 --> 00:02:09,085 buffet the ruins of the past. 44 00:02:11,087 --> 00:02:13,263 Historically, the sea was more of a connection 45 00:02:13,394 --> 00:02:14,917 than a barrier, 46 00:02:15,047 --> 00:02:19,530 as it was faster and more convenient to travel by boat, 47 00:02:19,661 --> 00:02:22,968 making the ancient regions now defined as Greece and Turkey 48 00:02:23,099 --> 00:02:24,883 more closely intertwined. 49 00:02:28,626 --> 00:02:30,367 I started my journey 50 00:02:30,498 --> 00:02:32,326 at the northern boundary of the Aegean. 51 00:02:32,456 --> 00:02:34,589 The Dardanelles. 52 00:02:34,719 --> 00:02:36,330 Because of its strategic location 53 00:02:36,460 --> 00:02:38,245 between two continents, 54 00:02:38,375 --> 00:02:40,160 Europe and Asia, 55 00:02:40,290 --> 00:02:42,292 and between two seas, 56 00:02:42,423 --> 00:02:44,773 the Black and the Aegean, 57 00:02:44,903 --> 00:02:48,255 this area was settled for thousands of years. 58 00:02:48,385 --> 00:02:51,345 It was also witness to countless wars, 59 00:02:51,475 --> 00:02:54,086 including the nearby battlefields of Gallipoli, 60 00:02:54,217 --> 00:02:57,394 which draws most visitors to this region. 61 00:02:57,525 --> 00:03:00,484 But I'm here to explore something else 62 00:03:00,615 --> 00:03:02,704 that you might not expect to find in Turkey. 63 00:03:04,445 --> 00:03:06,577 You may remember the legendary battle of Troy 64 00:03:06,708 --> 00:03:09,145 from high school Greek mythology, 65 00:03:09,276 --> 00:03:12,496 when the invading Greeks built a huge wooden horse, 66 00:03:12,627 --> 00:03:14,281 filled it with soldiers 67 00:03:14,411 --> 00:03:16,718 and rolled it up to the gates of the city, 68 00:03:16,848 --> 00:03:20,635 sneaking their soldiers inside and defeating the Trojans. 69 00:03:22,680 --> 00:03:24,682 While the horse may be a bit of mythology 70 00:03:24,813 --> 00:03:26,945 and Hollywood fantasy, 71 00:03:27,076 --> 00:03:30,819 the 5,000-year-old city is real 72 00:03:30,949 --> 00:03:32,821 and here in Turkey. 73 00:03:32,951 --> 00:03:37,217 Now we are walking on Troy's walls. 74 00:03:37,347 --> 00:03:39,958 -Be careful. -Yep. 75 00:03:40,089 --> 00:03:42,787 Archaeologist Rustem Aslan 76 00:03:42,918 --> 00:03:45,834 is director of the Troy excavation 77 00:03:45,964 --> 00:03:49,141 and has been working on this site since 1988. 78 00:03:49,272 --> 00:03:51,492 Peter, look, this wall. 79 00:03:51,622 --> 00:03:54,669 You can see the damages through the earthquake. 80 00:03:54,799 --> 00:03:56,584 [Peter] And then that wall over there? 81 00:03:56,714 --> 00:03:59,848 [Rustem] That's a thousand years older than this wall. 82 00:03:59,978 --> 00:04:01,589 -Wow. -Which means 83 00:04:01,719 --> 00:04:03,025 they built and rebuilt... 84 00:04:03,155 --> 00:04:04,374 Again and again. 85 00:04:04,505 --> 00:04:06,071 Again, and in 3,000 years, 86 00:04:06,202 --> 00:04:09,423 we have nine different cities on top of each other. 87 00:04:09,553 --> 00:04:12,817 The stacked cities look like a layer cake of history 88 00:04:12,948 --> 00:04:14,689 in cross section, 89 00:04:14,819 --> 00:04:16,517 with the oldest cities on the bottom 90 00:04:16,647 --> 00:04:19,998 and the newest at the top. 91 00:04:20,129 --> 00:04:22,914 Excavations here have uncovered artifacts 92 00:04:23,045 --> 00:04:26,266 from the legendary Trojan War in the sixth layer, 93 00:04:26,396 --> 00:04:28,790 dating back to 1200 B.C. 94 00:04:28,920 --> 00:04:30,226 But you're telling me that Troy 95 00:04:30,357 --> 00:04:32,228 actually happened here, not in Greece. 96 00:04:32,359 --> 00:04:34,535 Not in Greece, it's happened, everything's here. 97 00:04:34,665 --> 00:04:37,277 So everything I learned in high school was wrong. 98 00:04:37,407 --> 00:04:38,452 -Yes, maybe. -Wrong. 99 00:04:38,582 --> 00:04:39,714 -Yes. -But... 100 00:04:39,844 --> 00:04:42,325 what does that make Homer's Iliad,fiction? 101 00:04:42,456 --> 00:04:44,327 There's some part of the Iliad 102 00:04:44,458 --> 00:04:46,111 that's based on historical event. 103 00:04:46,242 --> 00:04:47,417 So it's a historical novel. 104 00:04:47,548 --> 00:04:48,897 You can say that, yes. 105 00:04:49,027 --> 00:04:51,116 But everything you're excavating is confirming to you 106 00:04:51,247 --> 00:04:52,640 that it really did happen here. 107 00:04:52,770 --> 00:04:54,903 Everything's happened here. 108 00:04:55,033 --> 00:04:58,210 Besides its strategic geographical location, 109 00:04:58,341 --> 00:05:00,517 the ancient city sat high on a hill, 110 00:05:00,648 --> 00:05:02,954 making it easier to defend. 111 00:05:03,085 --> 00:05:06,697 It also may have benefited from theetesians, 112 00:05:06,828 --> 00:05:10,005 which means "annual winds" in Greek, 113 00:05:10,135 --> 00:05:11,920 gusting from the northeast 114 00:05:12,050 --> 00:05:13,878 and making access to Troy more difficult 115 00:05:14,009 --> 00:05:15,924 for invading ships 116 00:05:16,054 --> 00:05:18,274 and intrepid explorers. 117 00:05:20,363 --> 00:05:22,104 The ancient city was first discovered 118 00:05:22,234 --> 00:05:24,628 by a German architect and treasure hunter 119 00:05:26,151 --> 00:05:27,631 named Heinrich Schliemann, 120 00:05:27,762 --> 00:05:30,852 who left his mark on the site in many ways. 121 00:05:33,028 --> 00:05:36,336 Now we are looking to the Schliemann Trench. 122 00:05:36,466 --> 00:05:41,428 He began his first official exploration in 1871. 123 00:05:41,558 --> 00:05:45,475 The top of the trees was a very high mound. 124 00:05:45,606 --> 00:05:47,129 And he started cutting them. 125 00:05:47,259 --> 00:05:49,827 Yes, he cut to the bedrock 126 00:05:49,958 --> 00:05:52,264 and through the whole side. 127 00:05:52,395 --> 00:05:53,744 [Peter] And what did he find down there? 128 00:05:53,875 --> 00:05:55,485 [Rustem] He found here actually not much, 129 00:05:55,616 --> 00:05:58,532 but let me show where he found and what he stole. 130 00:05:58,662 --> 00:06:01,578 -He stole? -Yes. 131 00:06:01,709 --> 00:06:04,407 Schliemann's search for the legendary treasure of Priam 132 00:06:04,538 --> 00:06:06,583 did not adhere to the methodical 133 00:06:06,714 --> 00:06:09,630 architectural techniques used today, 134 00:06:09,760 --> 00:06:12,328 which allowed important historical information 135 00:06:12,459 --> 00:06:16,941 and artifacts to be lost, destroyed or stolen. 136 00:06:17,072 --> 00:06:21,076 And when Schliemann excavated here, 137 00:06:21,206 --> 00:06:23,339 he found over there at those trees... 138 00:06:23,470 --> 00:06:24,993 -Over there? -Yes. 139 00:06:25,123 --> 00:06:28,823 ...inside of Troy two walls, the treasure. 140 00:06:28,953 --> 00:06:30,520 And what was in there? 141 00:06:30,651 --> 00:06:32,130 It was a very big treasure. 142 00:06:32,261 --> 00:06:34,394 It was more than 10,000 pieces. 143 00:06:34,524 --> 00:06:37,266 Gold, silver, electron bronze. 144 00:06:37,397 --> 00:06:40,225 And he smuggled from Turkey 145 00:06:40,356 --> 00:06:41,879 first to Athens 146 00:06:42,010 --> 00:06:44,839 and then to Germany. 147 00:06:44,969 --> 00:06:45,970 And then what happened? 148 00:06:46,101 --> 00:06:47,450 Just after the Second World War, 149 00:06:47,581 --> 00:06:49,409 all the treasure was disappeared. 150 00:06:49,539 --> 00:06:51,280 No chance of getting it back? 151 00:06:53,238 --> 00:06:54,544 Schliemann's historic photographs 152 00:06:54,675 --> 00:06:55,980 show the treasures, 153 00:06:56,111 --> 00:06:59,549 including an ancient headpiece worn by his wife 154 00:06:59,680 --> 00:07:03,684 that went missing for nearly 50 years, 155 00:07:03,814 --> 00:07:06,034 until it was discovered that Russian soldiers 156 00:07:06,164 --> 00:07:08,384 had taken the treasures back to Moscow, 157 00:07:08,515 --> 00:07:10,255 where they're now being displayed 158 00:07:10,386 --> 00:07:13,345 in the Pushkin Museum. 159 00:07:13,476 --> 00:07:15,913 These treasures may never be returned. 160 00:07:16,044 --> 00:07:18,786 But in 2018, the Troy Museum was built 161 00:07:18,916 --> 00:07:20,875 adjacent to the ancient city 162 00:07:21,005 --> 00:07:23,573 to collect and display the other artifacts 163 00:07:23,704 --> 00:07:26,141 that have been discovered here. 164 00:07:26,271 --> 00:07:28,012 Different levels of the museum 165 00:07:28,143 --> 00:07:30,798 reflect the different layers of this site, 166 00:07:30,928 --> 00:07:33,844 illustrating the complicated history of this area, 167 00:07:33,975 --> 00:07:36,281 as well as the painstaking process 168 00:07:36,412 --> 00:07:39,241 of restoring thousands of ancient artifacts 169 00:07:39,371 --> 00:07:41,983 that will continue to reveal the true story 170 00:07:42,113 --> 00:07:43,550 of this legendary city. 171 00:07:46,770 --> 00:07:48,990 South of Troy is Mount Ida, 172 00:07:49,120 --> 00:07:52,515 a verdant peak, where Homer's writing suggested 173 00:07:52,646 --> 00:07:56,127 that Zeus and his wife Hera watched the battle of Troy. 174 00:07:56,258 --> 00:07:57,868 The mountain offers 175 00:07:57,999 --> 00:07:59,870 commanding views of the Aegean. 176 00:08:00,001 --> 00:08:01,698 But it's hard to make out Troy, 177 00:08:01,829 --> 00:08:04,135 as it's almost 20 miles away. 178 00:08:04,266 --> 00:08:07,399 What you can see is orderly groves of olive trees 179 00:08:07,530 --> 00:08:09,401 blanketing the base of the mountain 180 00:08:09,532 --> 00:08:11,055 in an area that has been called 181 00:08:11,186 --> 00:08:12,796 the Olive Riviera. 182 00:08:15,843 --> 00:08:17,409 Tucked in amongst the olive groves 183 00:08:17,540 --> 00:08:19,150 is Adatepe, 184 00:08:19,281 --> 00:08:21,892 a village where you'll find old Greek houses 185 00:08:22,023 --> 00:08:25,896 and an unusual tasting opportunity. 186 00:08:26,027 --> 00:08:27,550 But I'm not talking about ice cream. 187 00:08:27,681 --> 00:08:29,073 Later. 188 00:08:29,204 --> 00:08:31,772 So head past the stands at the base of the village. 189 00:08:31,902 --> 00:08:34,165 Then up the hill 190 00:08:34,296 --> 00:08:36,211 to the narrow winding streets 191 00:08:36,341 --> 00:08:37,560 towards the end of the road. 192 00:08:39,431 --> 00:08:41,912 Be sure to say hello to all the locals. 193 00:08:42,043 --> 00:08:43,131 [smooching] 194 00:08:43,261 --> 00:08:46,047 And then head towards a small house 195 00:08:46,177 --> 00:08:48,745 shaded by a dense canopy of trees. 196 00:08:48,876 --> 00:08:50,094 Hello. 197 00:08:50,225 --> 00:08:52,619 Hello. Welcome to my village. 198 00:08:52,749 --> 00:08:54,490 -It's a beautiful village. -Yes. 199 00:08:54,621 --> 00:08:55,839 How long have you been here? 200 00:08:55,970 --> 00:08:57,624 Maybe 35 years. 201 00:08:57,754 --> 00:08:58,799 That's a long time. 202 00:08:58,929 --> 00:08:59,843 Yeah. 203 00:08:59,974 --> 00:09:02,193 Huseyin Meral came to Adatepe 204 00:09:02,324 --> 00:09:04,500 to retire in the 1980s. 205 00:09:04,631 --> 00:09:06,807 But the preponderance of olive orchards 206 00:09:06,937 --> 00:09:10,158 inspired him to produce olive oil, 207 00:09:10,288 --> 00:09:13,727 just as they did in early Roman times, 208 00:09:13,857 --> 00:09:16,425 by taking a large quantity of olives, 209 00:09:16,556 --> 00:09:18,427 then lightly stone-grinding them 210 00:09:18,558 --> 00:09:21,169 to produce the highest quality oil. 211 00:09:21,299 --> 00:09:24,433 -That's what this is? -Yeah, that's it. 212 00:09:24,564 --> 00:09:26,304 And we call it the flower of the oil. 213 00:09:26,435 --> 00:09:28,089 How many kilos of olives in here? 214 00:09:28,219 --> 00:09:31,614 About 20, 30 kilos olives 215 00:09:31,745 --> 00:09:34,399 to get one kilo of flower of the oil. 216 00:09:34,530 --> 00:09:36,271 So this is high-test olive oil. 217 00:09:36,401 --> 00:09:38,795 Yeah, that's extra virgin. 218 00:09:38,926 --> 00:09:40,710 No, extra extra extra virgin. 219 00:09:40,841 --> 00:09:42,494 -Is it good? -Yeah. 220 00:09:42,625 --> 00:09:43,583 Would you like taste? 221 00:09:43,713 --> 00:09:46,368 -Sure. -Yeah, okay. 222 00:09:46,498 --> 00:09:48,936 Huseyin has developed a regimented process 223 00:09:49,066 --> 00:09:50,328 for tasting olive oil, 224 00:09:50,459 --> 00:09:52,940 which is similar to wine tasting 225 00:09:53,070 --> 00:09:54,855 and uses the same glasses. 226 00:09:54,985 --> 00:09:56,204 Whoa! 227 00:09:56,334 --> 00:10:00,164 But with a generous serving of olive oil. 228 00:10:00,295 --> 00:10:03,167 This is the first time I've toasted olive oil. 229 00:10:03,298 --> 00:10:06,127 -You do like the wine? -Yeah. 230 00:10:06,257 --> 00:10:08,651 You take some and then you... 231 00:10:08,782 --> 00:10:09,826 Ah. 232 00:10:09,957 --> 00:10:11,785 And then you take some air. 233 00:10:11,915 --> 00:10:13,743 [inhales sharply] 234 00:10:13,874 --> 00:10:15,266 And then you take the taste. 235 00:10:15,397 --> 00:10:16,877 Just a little, right? 236 00:10:17,007 --> 00:10:21,142 And first you have to look at the color. 237 00:10:21,272 --> 00:10:22,447 Beautiful. 238 00:10:22,578 --> 00:10:24,406 And then you have to... 239 00:10:26,147 --> 00:10:27,235 Yep. 240 00:10:27,365 --> 00:10:29,803 Huseyin has lots of instructions, 241 00:10:29,933 --> 00:10:33,023 and it's obvious he also has something that I lack. 242 00:10:33,154 --> 00:10:35,373 Patience. 243 00:10:35,504 --> 00:10:37,811 -Okay, here we go. Ready? -Yeah. 244 00:10:37,941 --> 00:10:40,727 Finally, we get to taste it. 245 00:10:40,857 --> 00:10:42,859 I only hope that I'm doing it correctly. 246 00:10:42,990 --> 00:10:45,906 The swishing... the breathing... 247 00:10:46,036 --> 00:10:47,734 Nice. 248 00:10:47,864 --> 00:10:48,952 Very smooth. 249 00:10:49,083 --> 00:10:51,433 You're still going. 250 00:10:51,563 --> 00:10:54,566 [chuckles] You're still going. 251 00:10:54,697 --> 00:10:58,396 Homer referred to olive oil as liquid gold. 252 00:10:58,527 --> 00:11:00,834 And clearly Huseyin agrees. 253 00:11:00,964 --> 00:11:03,053 I like that olive oil. 254 00:11:03,184 --> 00:11:05,621 I think you do. I think I do. 255 00:11:05,752 --> 00:11:07,405 [laughing] Thank you. 256 00:11:09,756 --> 00:11:12,715 The village of Adatepe and Huseyin 257 00:11:12,846 --> 00:11:15,718 have been greatly influenced by Greek and Roman culture, 258 00:11:15,849 --> 00:11:18,112 and that didn't stop here. 259 00:11:20,201 --> 00:11:23,247 Eighty miles from Adatepe, you can find 260 00:11:23,378 --> 00:11:25,728 the Greco-Roman city of Pergamon, 261 00:11:27,817 --> 00:11:31,299 with striking ruins perched high on a hilltop, 262 00:11:31,429 --> 00:11:35,738 towering over the modern town of Bergama below. 263 00:11:35,869 --> 00:11:37,740 While the impressive temple of Trajan 264 00:11:37,871 --> 00:11:40,134 and the 10,000-seat theater 265 00:11:40,264 --> 00:11:42,484 draped dramatically down the hillside 266 00:11:42,614 --> 00:11:44,051 may catch your eye, 267 00:11:44,181 --> 00:11:45,443 you can easily miss 268 00:11:45,574 --> 00:11:48,316 what this ancient city was best known for. 269 00:11:48,446 --> 00:11:50,666 A library that was once considered 270 00:11:50,797 --> 00:11:53,625 one of the world's main centers of learning. 271 00:11:53,756 --> 00:11:56,672 Only the rubble foundation remains, 272 00:11:56,803 --> 00:11:58,935 but in the third century B.C., 273 00:11:59,066 --> 00:12:02,373 it held over 200,000 volumes, 274 00:12:02,504 --> 00:12:05,768 rivaling the great library in Alexandria. 275 00:12:05,899 --> 00:12:08,510 This infuriated King Ptolemy, 276 00:12:08,640 --> 00:12:11,295 so he forbade the export of Egyptian papyrus 277 00:12:11,426 --> 00:12:12,470 used for scrolls, 278 00:12:12,601 --> 00:12:15,560 forcing Pergamon to use animal skins 279 00:12:15,691 --> 00:12:18,476 to create writing materials. 280 00:12:18,607 --> 00:12:20,696 Although the tradition of making parchment 281 00:12:20,827 --> 00:12:22,437 is still practiced by an old master 282 00:12:22,567 --> 00:12:24,961 and his young apprentice, 283 00:12:25,092 --> 00:12:27,485 today Bergama may be best known 284 00:12:27,616 --> 00:12:29,705 for traditional Turkish carpets. 285 00:12:34,710 --> 00:12:36,712 In small towns like Bergama, 286 00:12:36,843 --> 00:12:38,583 I like to get off the tourist track 287 00:12:38,714 --> 00:12:41,935 and discover where the locals like to eat. 288 00:12:42,065 --> 00:12:44,851 And the best place to find a local who speaks English 289 00:12:44,981 --> 00:12:47,984 is often the nearest carpet seller. 290 00:12:48,115 --> 00:12:50,552 -Hello. -[woman speaking Turkish] 291 00:12:50,682 --> 00:12:52,946 -Hi. How are you? -Hi. 292 00:12:53,076 --> 00:12:55,122 -Good. -Nice to meet you. 293 00:12:55,252 --> 00:12:56,558 Peter. Nice to meet you. 294 00:12:56,688 --> 00:12:58,081 -My mother. -Ah! Hi, Mom. 295 00:12:58,212 --> 00:12:59,256 -She's here. -Mama. 296 00:12:59,387 --> 00:13:01,563 Mama. Okay, beautiful. 297 00:13:01,693 --> 00:13:04,261 Let me show you some of our rugs, 298 00:13:04,392 --> 00:13:06,176 which are from Bergama area. 299 00:13:06,307 --> 00:13:08,831 I'm sure Feral Emir and her mama 300 00:13:08,962 --> 00:13:11,007 will know the best places to eat, 301 00:13:11,138 --> 00:13:12,748 as they've had a store in Bergama 302 00:13:12,879 --> 00:13:14,141 since the 1960s. 303 00:13:14,271 --> 00:13:16,404 Beautiful. 304 00:13:16,534 --> 00:13:18,754 -Another one. -They are always same design 305 00:13:18,885 --> 00:13:21,975 but always the tools are different as you see. 306 00:13:22,105 --> 00:13:24,542 But it still may be a challenge to get lunch... 307 00:13:24,673 --> 00:13:26,936 What do you think? Did you like them? 308 00:13:27,067 --> 00:13:29,025 -Nice. -Yes. 309 00:13:29,156 --> 00:13:32,246 ...as Turkish carpet sellers rarely take no for an answer. 310 00:13:32,376 --> 00:13:33,464 [speaking Turkish] 311 00:13:33,595 --> 00:13:35,162 In any language. 312 00:13:35,292 --> 00:13:36,641 This is another Bergama carpet. 313 00:13:36,772 --> 00:13:38,600 We call it Arpadaria... 314 00:13:38,730 --> 00:13:39,906 Arpadaria. 315 00:13:40,036 --> 00:13:42,343 And with these two double-teaming me, 316 00:13:42,473 --> 00:13:44,649 I can't hold out for long. 317 00:13:54,268 --> 00:13:57,793 But Feral can toss these heavy carpets all day. 318 00:13:57,924 --> 00:14:00,013 So I might have a chance. 319 00:14:00,143 --> 00:14:02,145 Peter, would you like apple tea 320 00:14:02,276 --> 00:14:03,625 or would you like a rug? 321 00:14:03,755 --> 00:14:05,409 -[chuckles] -Maybe? [laughs] 322 00:14:05,540 --> 00:14:07,281 Well, you know what, apple tea later, 323 00:14:07,411 --> 00:14:09,500 rug later, but we're going to get some lunch. 324 00:14:09,631 --> 00:14:11,720 I know a place, follow me. 325 00:14:11,851 --> 00:14:14,636 Bergama has great places for food. 326 00:14:14,766 --> 00:14:17,465 Like this shop that serves fresh, creamy cheese 327 00:14:17,595 --> 00:14:19,467 smothered in honey. 328 00:14:19,597 --> 00:14:24,167 And it's known for its meatballs, called kofte. 329 00:14:24,298 --> 00:14:26,909 But Feral takes me to try a local dish 330 00:14:27,040 --> 00:14:29,085 with an interesting name. 331 00:14:29,216 --> 00:14:31,131 Patlicanchigirtma , 332 00:14:31,261 --> 00:14:34,308 which translates to "screaming eggplant," 333 00:14:34,438 --> 00:14:37,659 and a family restaurant run by Abdullah Gozkaya 334 00:14:37,789 --> 00:14:39,226 and his son, Muhsin. 335 00:14:39,356 --> 00:14:41,489 -Muhsin, Peter. -Nice to meet you. 336 00:14:41,619 --> 00:14:43,317 -Nice to meet you. -Local chef. 337 00:14:43,447 --> 00:14:45,710 He prepares aubergine chigirtma. 338 00:14:45,841 --> 00:14:47,234 -Eggplant. -Eggplant. 339 00:14:47,364 --> 00:14:49,845 And the name comes from, 340 00:14:49,976 --> 00:14:53,849 when we put it into boiling-hot olive oil, 341 00:14:53,980 --> 00:14:55,068 it is screaming. 342 00:14:55,198 --> 00:14:56,591 Whooo!Like that. 343 00:14:56,721 --> 00:14:58,941 -It almost explodes, okay. -Yeah, if you like to see? 344 00:14:59,072 --> 00:15:01,030 [Peter] Yeah, let's do it. All right. What's cooking? 345 00:15:01,161 --> 00:15:02,162 [Muhsin] This is soup. 346 00:15:02,292 --> 00:15:03,293 What kind of soup? 347 00:15:03,424 --> 00:15:04,773 -This is sheep. -Sheep? 348 00:15:04,904 --> 00:15:06,644 Yes. 349 00:15:06,775 --> 00:15:08,255 I actually prefer it when my soup 350 00:15:08,385 --> 00:15:09,734 doesn't look back at me, 351 00:15:09,865 --> 00:15:11,475 so I'm going to stick with thechigirtma . 352 00:15:11,606 --> 00:15:13,042 Okay, ready? Just put it in? 353 00:15:13,173 --> 00:15:14,609 -[sizzling] -Whoa! 354 00:15:14,739 --> 00:15:16,959 -Oh! Very dangerous. -I know. 355 00:15:18,830 --> 00:15:20,223 -It's angry. -Yes. 356 00:15:20,354 --> 00:15:23,052 With this boiling-hot oil, 357 00:15:23,183 --> 00:15:25,576 it's not just the eggplant that's screaming. 358 00:15:25,707 --> 00:15:27,665 -Oh, man, I can feel it. -Yes. 359 00:15:27,796 --> 00:15:30,277 And in no time, it's nicely browned 360 00:15:30,407 --> 00:15:32,540 and ready to come out. 361 00:15:32,670 --> 00:15:34,716 -They're still screaming at me. -Yes. 362 00:15:34,846 --> 00:15:37,284 Then we quickly fry some green peppers. 363 00:15:37,414 --> 00:15:38,633 -Just throw them in? -Yes. 364 00:15:38,763 --> 00:15:40,417 [Feral] Attention, please. 365 00:15:40,548 --> 00:15:41,984 And tomatoes with garlic. 366 00:15:42,115 --> 00:15:43,377 Can never have enough garlic. 367 00:15:43,507 --> 00:15:45,596 Okay. We got it. 368 00:15:45,727 --> 00:15:47,511 And put it all together. 369 00:15:47,642 --> 00:15:49,339 So you put the peppers on the eggplants? 370 00:15:49,470 --> 00:15:50,645 Okay. 371 00:15:52,647 --> 00:15:53,604 -Good. -Good. 372 00:15:53,735 --> 00:15:55,476 Oh, yeah, look at that. 373 00:15:55,606 --> 00:15:56,825 -The whole thing? -Yes. 374 00:15:56,956 --> 00:15:58,261 The whole thing! 375 00:15:58,392 --> 00:16:00,872 -Done. -This is chigirtma. 376 00:16:01,003 --> 00:16:02,613 Wow. Whoa! 377 00:16:02,744 --> 00:16:04,485 -[Muhsin laughs] -Beautiful. 378 00:16:04,615 --> 00:16:06,182 -Beautiful. -Yes. 379 00:16:06,313 --> 00:16:08,968 -Okay, one for you. -[laughs] 380 00:16:09,098 --> 00:16:11,579 -One for you. -Thank you. 381 00:16:11,709 --> 00:16:12,754 And two for me. 382 00:16:15,148 --> 00:16:16,236 I like it. 383 00:16:16,366 --> 00:16:17,280 You approve? 384 00:16:17,411 --> 00:16:19,761 -Yeah. -Good. 385 00:16:19,891 --> 00:16:21,632 [rhythmic music playing] 386 00:16:21,763 --> 00:16:23,243 There's much more to Bergama 387 00:16:23,373 --> 00:16:25,462 than restaurants and carpet stores, 388 00:16:25,593 --> 00:16:29,466 as it also has history dating back thousands of years. 389 00:16:29,597 --> 00:16:33,340 These ancient Roman ruins, known as the Red Hall, 390 00:16:33,470 --> 00:16:35,385 may have originally been built 391 00:16:35,516 --> 00:16:37,431 as a temple to the Egyptian gods 392 00:16:37,561 --> 00:16:39,520 in the second century A.D. 393 00:16:39,650 --> 00:16:41,391 But 300 years later... 394 00:16:43,306 --> 00:16:45,004 a Christian basilica was built 395 00:16:45,134 --> 00:16:47,223 inside the massive hall, 396 00:16:47,354 --> 00:16:50,096 one of the infamous seven churches of the Apocalypse 397 00:16:50,226 --> 00:16:54,274 mentioned in the book of Revelation. 398 00:16:54,404 --> 00:16:55,666 Bergama also has 399 00:16:55,797 --> 00:16:57,973 the longest-running outdoor market in Turkey, 400 00:16:58,104 --> 00:17:00,323 which is a popular hangout for the locals 401 00:17:00,454 --> 00:17:02,978 and filled with much of what you might expect. 402 00:17:03,109 --> 00:17:05,328 Tea shops, coffee shops. 403 00:17:05,459 --> 00:17:06,764 [Peter] Yep, and the dog. 404 00:17:06,895 --> 00:17:08,375 [Feral laughs] 405 00:17:08,505 --> 00:17:10,029 But Feral wants to show me 406 00:17:10,159 --> 00:17:12,553 something further off the beaten path. 407 00:17:12,683 --> 00:17:14,424 What catches my attention first 408 00:17:14,555 --> 00:17:16,383 is a sign that says parking costs 409 00:17:16,513 --> 00:17:18,211 seven Turkish lira a day. 410 00:17:18,341 --> 00:17:19,734 -Merhaba. -Merhaba. 411 00:17:19,864 --> 00:17:21,823 [Peter] That's about 40 cents. 412 00:17:21,953 --> 00:17:24,826 Definitely not a New York City rate. 413 00:17:24,956 --> 00:17:27,350 Of course, Feral has something else in mind. 414 00:17:27,481 --> 00:17:29,135 Surprise! 415 00:17:29,265 --> 00:17:30,701 Carpets. 416 00:17:30,832 --> 00:17:32,268 These are being made 417 00:17:32,399 --> 00:17:35,880 by master weaver and teacher Hat ice Tok 418 00:17:36,011 --> 00:17:39,493 using a special knot that is a Bergama tradition. 419 00:17:39,623 --> 00:17:41,060 -Merhaba. -Peter, may I introduce you 420 00:17:41,190 --> 00:17:43,105 to my friend Hatice? 421 00:17:43,236 --> 00:17:46,108 She is master of knitting. 422 00:17:46,239 --> 00:17:48,589 And she will show us double knot. 423 00:17:48,719 --> 00:17:52,288 -This is the double knot. -Gordian knot also we call it. 424 00:17:52,419 --> 00:17:54,334 [Peter] The term "Gordian knot" 425 00:17:54,464 --> 00:17:56,075 comes from an ancient Greek legend 426 00:17:56,205 --> 00:17:58,077 about Alexander the Great. 427 00:17:58,207 --> 00:18:01,819 It was such a complex knot that no one could undo it. 428 00:18:01,950 --> 00:18:05,127 Until Alexander came and sliced it in half 429 00:18:05,258 --> 00:18:07,999 with a single stroke of his sword. 430 00:18:08,130 --> 00:18:10,611 The double knot isn't as complex 431 00:18:10,741 --> 00:18:12,091 but it doesn't look easy. 432 00:18:12,221 --> 00:18:14,789 -Do you want to try? -Do I want to try this? 433 00:18:14,919 --> 00:18:17,183 -Mm-hmm. -Okay, I'm coming. 434 00:18:17,313 --> 00:18:18,184 I'm coming. 435 00:18:18,314 --> 00:18:20,534 I'm not an arts and crafts guy, 436 00:18:20,664 --> 00:18:22,710 so I definitely need some instruction. 437 00:18:22,840 --> 00:18:25,016 -Double line. -[Peter] Double line. 438 00:18:25,147 --> 00:18:26,844 [Hatice] Show you that it should be... 439 00:18:26,975 --> 00:18:28,585 -Then I put that through there? -Bottom. 440 00:18:28,716 --> 00:18:30,413 [Peter] Oh, bottom. 441 00:18:30,544 --> 00:18:32,459 -Uh, look at me. -Yeah. 442 00:18:32,589 --> 00:18:35,418 Watching Hatice, it's clear she's the master weaver. 443 00:18:35,549 --> 00:18:37,464 [Peter] Oh, I see. 444 00:18:37,594 --> 00:18:39,248 And I need more practice. 445 00:18:39,379 --> 00:18:41,642 Okay, we'll try again. 446 00:18:41,772 --> 00:18:43,731 -Okay, I do that like so. -Uh-huh. 447 00:18:43,861 --> 00:18:46,429 [Peter] Right? 448 00:18:46,560 --> 00:18:49,476 Then I put this down below. 449 00:18:49,606 --> 00:18:50,738 -Uh-huh. -[Peter] Yes? 450 00:18:50,868 --> 00:18:52,261 [Hatice] Yes, exactly. 451 00:18:52,392 --> 00:18:54,959 Then I pull it all the way down and I did it? 452 00:18:55,090 --> 00:18:56,657 -Yes. -[Feral claps] 453 00:18:56,787 --> 00:18:57,875 Wow! 454 00:18:58,006 --> 00:19:00,661 I was able to tie one double knot, 455 00:19:00,791 --> 00:19:02,619 but there are thousands to go, 456 00:19:02,750 --> 00:19:06,057 so I'll let the pro finish this carpet. 457 00:19:06,188 --> 00:19:08,930 I'll see you in two weeks, when it's done. 458 00:19:09,060 --> 00:19:11,802 And even though I won't be weaving a carpet, 459 00:19:11,933 --> 00:19:14,588 I can't avoid buying one. 460 00:19:14,718 --> 00:19:17,156 Oh, thank you. 461 00:19:17,286 --> 00:19:21,290 Feral may offer a fair price for her carpets, 462 00:19:21,421 --> 00:19:23,684 but I have a little trick to make sure I get 463 00:19:23,814 --> 00:19:26,121 the best deal for my purchases. 464 00:19:26,252 --> 00:19:28,167 -Hello again. -Hello. 465 00:19:28,297 --> 00:19:30,212 -Now a carpet. -Now a carpet. 466 00:19:30,343 --> 00:19:31,909 All right, how much for that one? 467 00:19:32,040 --> 00:19:33,737 This is $700. 468 00:19:33,868 --> 00:19:36,479 $700. All right. 469 00:19:36,610 --> 00:19:39,352 I get the best price by starting with a credit card. 470 00:19:39,482 --> 00:19:41,745 -American Express? -American Express? 471 00:19:41,876 --> 00:19:43,138 No. 472 00:19:43,269 --> 00:19:44,705 Mom says no, okay. 473 00:19:44,835 --> 00:19:46,924 Uh... a discount for Visa? 474 00:19:47,055 --> 00:19:48,926 Visa...? 475 00:19:49,057 --> 00:19:51,190 And then I ask for the cash discount. 476 00:19:51,320 --> 00:19:52,626 All right, how much for cash? 477 00:19:52,756 --> 00:19:56,325 Cash, I can do it for $600 for you. 478 00:19:56,456 --> 00:19:57,892 -Okay, deal. -It's good. 479 00:19:58,022 --> 00:19:59,937 -Deal? Thank you. -Good? 480 00:20:00,068 --> 00:20:01,591 Good. Very good. 481 00:20:04,333 --> 00:20:05,421 Much of the Aegean coast 482 00:20:05,552 --> 00:20:08,468 is dotted with small towns like Bergama. 483 00:20:08,598 --> 00:20:10,992 But just 70 miles to the south, 484 00:20:11,122 --> 00:20:13,995 you'll find the thriving metropolis of Izmir... 485 00:20:14,125 --> 00:20:15,605 [upbeat music playing] 486 00:20:15,736 --> 00:20:17,694 ...Turkey's third largest city 487 00:20:17,825 --> 00:20:21,263 and home to the country's biggest port. 488 00:20:21,394 --> 00:20:24,701 The city's roots go back 8,500 years. 489 00:20:24,832 --> 00:20:28,009 Once known as the ancient Greek city of Smyrna, 490 00:20:28,139 --> 00:20:30,141 it was a cosmopolitan center of trade 491 00:20:30,272 --> 00:20:32,318 that numerous cultures called home. 492 00:20:35,582 --> 00:20:38,454 During the Roman era in the 4th century B.C., 493 00:20:38,585 --> 00:20:40,674 the agora was constructed, 494 00:20:40,804 --> 00:20:42,197 an open-air market 495 00:20:42,328 --> 00:20:44,068 thought to be the biggest of its kind 496 00:20:44,199 --> 00:20:45,461 in the ancient world. 497 00:20:45,592 --> 00:20:48,508 Today, you can see its remains, 498 00:20:48,638 --> 00:20:51,598 as well as its sophisticated Roman plumbing. 499 00:20:54,383 --> 00:20:57,560 And the agora has evolved, along with the growing city, 500 00:20:57,691 --> 00:20:59,214 into the Kemeralti, 501 00:20:59,345 --> 00:21:01,695 the biggest outdoor market in Turkey. 502 00:21:01,825 --> 00:21:03,305 Oh, merhaba. 503 00:21:03,436 --> 00:21:06,874 Oh, thanks, man. Appreciate that. 504 00:21:07,004 --> 00:21:11,574 The Kemeralti is home to 15,000 shops, 505 00:21:11,705 --> 00:21:13,446 three times the amount 506 00:21:13,576 --> 00:21:16,318 in Istanbul's grand bazaar. 507 00:21:16,449 --> 00:21:18,755 Down these labyrinthian corridors, 508 00:21:18,886 --> 00:21:20,714 it's easy to get overwhelmed 509 00:21:20,844 --> 00:21:23,717 by the aromas of endless fresh produce and meat 510 00:21:25,762 --> 00:21:28,896 and the clatter of artisans at work. 511 00:21:29,026 --> 00:21:31,725 But some of the merchandise needs to be handled 512 00:21:31,855 --> 00:21:32,943 very carefully. 513 00:21:33,074 --> 00:21:35,859 [electric sharpener buzzing] 514 00:21:35,990 --> 00:21:37,208 Ooh, sharp. 515 00:21:37,339 --> 00:21:38,732 Very sharp. 516 00:21:38,862 --> 00:21:40,429 I know. Whoo! 517 00:21:40,560 --> 00:21:42,431 [Asian music playing] 518 00:21:42,562 --> 00:21:45,304 Out on the streets, it's easy to spot the mosque 519 00:21:45,434 --> 00:21:47,958 soaring above the bazaar. 520 00:21:48,089 --> 00:21:50,439 But right in the middle of this bustling market, 521 00:21:50,570 --> 00:21:53,486 there's an almost forgotten hidden corner, 522 00:21:53,616 --> 00:21:56,706 with some amazing history if you know where to look 523 00:21:56,837 --> 00:21:58,839 or you have someone to show you. 524 00:21:58,969 --> 00:22:00,493 -Tilda? -Hi, Peter. 525 00:22:00,623 --> 00:22:01,494 Nice to meet you. 526 00:22:01,624 --> 00:22:03,278 So, where are we going? 527 00:22:03,409 --> 00:22:05,280 Well, come with me, I'll show you, 528 00:22:05,411 --> 00:22:07,978 because it's not easy to find on your own. 529 00:22:08,109 --> 00:22:09,980 [peaceful music playing] 530 00:22:10,111 --> 00:22:12,113 Once you enter Havra Street, 531 00:22:12,243 --> 00:22:15,899 turn at the fish vendors and walk less than 50 feet 532 00:22:16,030 --> 00:22:18,337 and you will see the beginning of a wall. 533 00:22:18,467 --> 00:22:20,817 That's just the first synagogue. 534 00:22:20,948 --> 00:22:24,343 Tilda Koenka is leading me into the old Jewish quarter, 535 00:22:24,473 --> 00:22:28,085 an almost forgotten enclave where her mother grew up, 536 00:22:28,216 --> 00:22:30,653 that's filled with historic synagogues. 537 00:22:30,784 --> 00:22:32,394 Boy, lots of surprises here. 538 00:22:32,525 --> 00:22:35,223 And I have here even more for you. 539 00:22:37,573 --> 00:22:40,707 Here is something not everyone sees, Peter. 540 00:22:40,837 --> 00:22:42,709 -You see these three walls? -Yeah. 541 00:22:42,839 --> 00:22:45,842 These are the outer walls of three different synagogues. 542 00:22:45,973 --> 00:22:47,757 -Right next to each other. -Right next to each other. 543 00:22:47,888 --> 00:22:49,672 And you only have to turn your head 544 00:22:49,803 --> 00:22:51,544 to see a fourth synagogue, 545 00:22:51,674 --> 00:22:54,198 a strange cluster in the heart of the city. 546 00:22:54,329 --> 00:22:56,375 [Peter] So why were they all so close to together? 547 00:22:56,505 --> 00:23:00,161 Well, the Jewish community did not come to Izmir at once. 548 00:23:00,291 --> 00:23:02,424 They came in different time periods. 549 00:23:02,555 --> 00:23:04,470 Sometimes even in different centuries. 550 00:23:04,600 --> 00:23:07,995 Tens of thousands of Sephardic Jews 551 00:23:08,125 --> 00:23:10,171 made their way to Ottoman territories 552 00:23:10,301 --> 00:23:13,000 after being expelled from Spain and Portugal, 553 00:23:13,130 --> 00:23:15,306 at the height of the Spanish Inquisition. 554 00:23:15,437 --> 00:23:17,570 The Jewish population in Izmir 555 00:23:17,700 --> 00:23:19,441 peaked at nearly 40,000 556 00:23:19,572 --> 00:23:21,530 at the end of the 18th century. 557 00:23:21,661 --> 00:23:23,532 But as the community dispersed, 558 00:23:23,663 --> 00:23:26,970 the synagogues were abandoned and almost lost. 559 00:23:27,101 --> 00:23:29,451 But not forgotten. 560 00:23:29,582 --> 00:23:31,366 So, are all the synagogues in this area 561 00:23:31,497 --> 00:23:32,759 in this state of disrepair? 562 00:23:32,889 --> 00:23:35,022 [Tilda] No. Let me show you. 563 00:23:35,152 --> 00:23:37,720 We know there are nine synagogues in the area. 564 00:23:37,851 --> 00:23:41,332 We are now working on restoring as many as we can. 565 00:23:41,463 --> 00:23:43,770 It is a process that will take years, 566 00:23:43,900 --> 00:23:46,381 but we at least have started. 567 00:23:46,512 --> 00:23:48,252 [woman singing folk song] 568 00:23:48,383 --> 00:23:51,865 The Jewish population today, less than a thousand. 569 00:23:51,995 --> 00:23:54,041 But Tilda's work with the Jewish Heritage Project 570 00:23:54,171 --> 00:23:56,130 is helping to build what remains 571 00:23:56,260 --> 00:23:57,958 of these historic synagogues 572 00:23:58,088 --> 00:24:00,351 and their disappearing culture. 573 00:24:00,482 --> 00:24:02,223 -[music continues] -You hear that? 574 00:24:02,353 --> 00:24:03,572 Yeah. 575 00:24:03,703 --> 00:24:05,052 Come with me. 576 00:24:09,012 --> 00:24:11,928 [singing in Ladino] 577 00:24:27,509 --> 00:24:30,512 This traditional music is sung in Ladino, 578 00:24:30,643 --> 00:24:32,427 the language of the Sephardic Jews 579 00:24:32,558 --> 00:24:35,386 who were exiled from Spain and Portugal. 580 00:24:35,517 --> 00:24:37,824 The song, "Adio Querida," 581 00:24:37,954 --> 00:24:39,869 is a farewell to a former love 582 00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:42,350 and perhaps a former home. 583 00:24:46,746 --> 00:24:49,836 [Tilda] Most people never see these hidden synagogues 584 00:24:49,966 --> 00:24:53,666 and never hear this music in its original language, 585 00:24:53,796 --> 00:24:56,277 but we try to keep them all alive 586 00:24:56,407 --> 00:24:58,453 so we can celebrate 587 00:24:58,584 --> 00:25:03,458 and remember our history, our religion, our culture. 588 00:25:03,589 --> 00:25:05,373 It is something that we should never forget. 589 00:25:09,812 --> 00:25:12,249 Beautiful. Beautiful, thank you. 590 00:25:12,380 --> 00:25:13,686 -Isn't that great? -Yeah. 591 00:25:13,816 --> 00:25:15,339 -And you knew all the words. -Yes. 592 00:25:18,168 --> 00:25:19,779 [Peter] These hidden synagogues 593 00:25:19,909 --> 00:25:23,173 are an unexpected escape from the modern city, 594 00:25:23,304 --> 00:25:25,915 but to really get away, the locals head out 595 00:25:26,046 --> 00:25:28,483 to the nearby Cesme peninsula. 596 00:25:28,614 --> 00:25:30,833 Just an hour west of Izmir, 597 00:25:30,964 --> 00:25:33,357 you'll find the picturesque town of Alaçat1, 598 00:25:33,488 --> 00:25:35,490 a 19th-century village, 599 00:25:35,621 --> 00:25:38,711 once know for its olive oil and soothing breezes, 600 00:25:38,841 --> 00:25:43,324 that has now become a mecca for wind surfing and food. 601 00:25:43,454 --> 00:25:45,935 The cobblestone streets are lined with small cafes, 602 00:25:46,066 --> 00:25:47,763 and it's not hard to find 603 00:25:47,894 --> 00:25:49,896 a great farm-to-table restaurant, 604 00:25:50,026 --> 00:25:52,551 sometimes right on the farm. 605 00:25:52,681 --> 00:25:54,204 But I head further east, 606 00:25:54,335 --> 00:25:58,078 into the sprawling farmland along the coast, near Urla, 607 00:25:58,208 --> 00:26:00,341 using the giant wind turbines 608 00:26:00,471 --> 00:26:02,386 to guide me towards a piece of history 609 00:26:02,517 --> 00:26:04,432 that few people get to see. 610 00:26:06,347 --> 00:26:07,609 It sounds easy enough. 611 00:26:07,740 --> 00:26:11,047 You just hang a right before the third turbine, 612 00:26:11,178 --> 00:26:15,356 then follow the dirt road to the giant olive tree. 613 00:26:15,486 --> 00:26:17,793 -Hi. Welcome, Peter. -Thank you, John. 614 00:26:17,924 --> 00:26:20,230 -This is quite a place. -Thank you. 615 00:26:20,361 --> 00:26:21,754 That's quite a tree. 616 00:26:21,884 --> 00:26:23,712 It is the oldest olive tree here, 617 00:26:23,843 --> 00:26:25,235 1,800 years old. 618 00:26:25,366 --> 00:26:27,324 Wow! Still produces olives? 619 00:26:27,455 --> 00:26:28,935 Very tasty ones, 620 00:26:29,065 --> 00:26:31,459 but I have older things to show you. 621 00:26:35,942 --> 00:26:38,901 Can Orbitach started the Uzbas Arboretum 622 00:26:39,032 --> 00:26:40,860 in 1996, 623 00:26:40,990 --> 00:26:43,819 to grow 1900 different types of plants. 624 00:26:46,648 --> 00:26:48,476 But as they tilled these grounds, 625 00:26:48,607 --> 00:26:50,783 they made a surprising discovery. 626 00:26:54,221 --> 00:26:57,398 [Can] One day, when we were digging up here, 627 00:26:57,528 --> 00:27:00,619 we found this, amphoras. 628 00:27:00,749 --> 00:27:03,186 More than 2,000 years old. 629 00:27:03,317 --> 00:27:05,580 -Still smelling of wine. -Amazing. 630 00:27:05,711 --> 00:27:09,366 The culture was lost, but the proof was here. 631 00:27:09,497 --> 00:27:10,890 So you knew they'd made wine. 632 00:27:11,020 --> 00:27:13,501 Yes, yes, people were making wine 633 00:27:13,632 --> 00:27:16,417 for centuries here in Anatolia. 634 00:27:16,547 --> 00:27:19,246 Although the Egyptians may first come to mind 635 00:27:19,376 --> 00:27:21,640 when you think of ancient viticulture, 636 00:27:21,770 --> 00:27:24,207 archaeologists have found evidence of wine production 637 00:27:24,338 --> 00:27:27,123 dating back nearly 10,000 years, 638 00:27:27,254 --> 00:27:30,736 at the site of the world's first city in Anatolia. 639 00:27:30,866 --> 00:27:33,826 So these ancient vessels, with the scent of wine, 640 00:27:33,956 --> 00:27:36,567 inspired John to take a chance. 641 00:27:36,698 --> 00:27:39,962 The terroir, night and day differences. 642 00:27:40,093 --> 00:27:42,182 Sea breezes, soil. 643 00:27:42,312 --> 00:27:44,924 We knew we can do it again. 644 00:27:45,054 --> 00:27:46,273 And you did. 645 00:27:46,403 --> 00:27:51,365 [relaxing music playing] 646 00:27:53,541 --> 00:27:56,370 In 2000, Can started his first vineyard, 647 00:27:56,500 --> 00:28:01,027 using historic varieties of local grapes. 648 00:28:01,157 --> 00:28:03,551 Today, the vines are thriving 649 00:28:03,682 --> 00:28:05,814 and in need of constant attention. 650 00:28:05,945 --> 00:28:07,773 So, how many vines are we talking about here? 651 00:28:07,903 --> 00:28:10,471 170 acres. 652 00:28:10,601 --> 00:28:11,951 That's a lot. 653 00:28:12,081 --> 00:28:14,170 And those ladies out there, what are they doing? 654 00:28:14,301 --> 00:28:17,043 [Can] They are getting ready for green harvesting. 655 00:28:17,173 --> 00:28:19,828 [Peter] And that's where you work directly with the grapes? 656 00:28:19,959 --> 00:28:24,224 With the grapes, to have more concentration. 657 00:28:25,921 --> 00:28:27,531 Although it may seem counterintuitive, 658 00:28:27,662 --> 00:28:29,446 during green harvest, 659 00:28:29,577 --> 00:28:31,666 unripe grapes are pruned from the vines. 660 00:28:31,797 --> 00:28:33,929 This allows the remaining grapes to thrive 661 00:28:34,060 --> 00:28:36,976 and produce a more concentrated wine. 662 00:28:37,106 --> 00:28:38,978 Can wanted me to give it a try, 663 00:28:39,108 --> 00:28:41,284 but my experience is drinking wine, 664 00:28:41,415 --> 00:28:43,025 not making it. 665 00:28:43,156 --> 00:28:45,332 So I just come right over here to the bunches here? 666 00:28:45,462 --> 00:28:46,986 -[Can] Mm-hmm. -So, what, I cut this one? 667 00:28:47,116 --> 00:28:49,249 -[Can] Peter, you decide. -Okay, this is the one. 668 00:28:49,379 --> 00:28:51,512 Yes, this is the right one. 669 00:28:51,642 --> 00:28:53,601 -Okay, I just throw that out? -Yeah. 670 00:28:53,732 --> 00:28:55,821 And go on. 671 00:28:55,951 --> 00:28:58,214 [Peter] This one right here. Okay. Right? 672 00:28:58,345 --> 00:28:59,738 -Okay. -Yes. This one. 673 00:28:59,868 --> 00:29:01,217 -Right. -Out it goes. 674 00:29:01,348 --> 00:29:03,698 -Of course. -How many vines are out here? 675 00:29:03,829 --> 00:29:06,005 [Can] We're going to be here for a while. 676 00:29:07,876 --> 00:29:11,750 With ancient vineyards that are older then Egypt's, 677 00:29:11,880 --> 00:29:16,189 and Greek mythology that didn't happen in Greece, 678 00:29:16,319 --> 00:29:18,713 the Turkish Aegean makes me reconsider 679 00:29:18,844 --> 00:29:21,237 my entire understanding of world history. 680 00:29:21,368 --> 00:29:23,936 And just 60 miles down the coast from Urla 681 00:29:24,066 --> 00:29:26,590 is the ancient city of Ephesus, where you'll find 682 00:29:26,721 --> 00:29:29,593 one of the world's best preserved Roman ruins. 683 00:29:33,423 --> 00:29:35,643 Set on a strategic trade route, 684 00:29:35,774 --> 00:29:39,516 Ephesus was once a cultural and religious crossroads 685 00:29:39,647 --> 00:29:41,605 and the most important Greco-Roman city 686 00:29:41,736 --> 00:29:44,565 in the eastern Mediterranean. 687 00:29:44,695 --> 00:29:47,698 These days, the ancient city is besieged 688 00:29:47,829 --> 00:29:49,700 by nearly a half million tourists 689 00:29:49,831 --> 00:29:51,528 that pour off cruise ships each summer 690 00:29:51,659 --> 00:29:54,227 to see the ruins, 691 00:29:54,357 --> 00:29:57,578 including the original version of a pay toilet. 692 00:29:57,708 --> 00:30:01,016 So if you gotta go... every pun intended... 693 00:30:01,147 --> 00:30:02,888 it's best to get there on a day 694 00:30:03,018 --> 00:30:05,107 when the cruise ships aren't in port. 695 00:30:08,067 --> 00:30:10,852 And if you want to skip the crowds altogether, 696 00:30:10,983 --> 00:30:12,854 you can head an hour down the coast 697 00:30:12,985 --> 00:30:15,726 to Lake Bafa and the Buyuk Menderes, 698 00:30:15,857 --> 00:30:18,338 also known as the Meander River. 699 00:30:18,468 --> 00:30:20,209 If the name sounds familiar, 700 00:30:20,340 --> 00:30:22,168 it's because the word "meander" 701 00:30:22,298 --> 00:30:25,432 was inspired by the winding course of this river. 702 00:30:25,562 --> 00:30:29,479 Originating from springs nearly 200 miles inland, 703 00:30:29,610 --> 00:30:32,439 the Meander takes a sinuous path to the coast, 704 00:30:32,569 --> 00:30:35,529 depositing silt that created fertile farmland 705 00:30:35,659 --> 00:30:39,272 and filled an ancient bay. 706 00:30:39,402 --> 00:30:41,274 Three thousand years ago, 707 00:30:41,404 --> 00:30:44,538 the Aegean pushed almost 20 miles up this river valley, 708 00:30:44,668 --> 00:30:46,975 but silt carried by the Meander 709 00:30:47,106 --> 00:30:48,759 slowly filled the ancient bay, 710 00:30:48,890 --> 00:30:51,675 leaving only the isolated Lake Bafa. 711 00:30:51,806 --> 00:30:53,677 This pocket of salty water 712 00:30:53,808 --> 00:30:56,550 has managed to retain all of its Aegean culture, 713 00:30:56,680 --> 00:30:58,900 transporting you to another world 714 00:30:59,031 --> 00:31:01,076 far from the throngs of tourists 715 00:31:01,207 --> 00:31:03,296 and the pressures of modern-day life. 716 00:31:03,426 --> 00:31:06,647 Along its shores are thousands of years of history. 717 00:31:06,777 --> 00:31:09,128 From the ancient port city of Herakleia, 718 00:31:09,258 --> 00:31:13,610 to the prehistoric Kerdemlik cave paintings, 719 00:31:13,741 --> 00:31:16,483 as well as monasteries and frescoes 720 00:31:16,613 --> 00:31:18,746 created by the Byzantines. 721 00:31:27,886 --> 00:31:31,324 If the shores are a monument to the distant past, 722 00:31:31,454 --> 00:31:34,414 out on the water is a living present. 723 00:31:37,156 --> 00:31:39,245 Fishermen like Akin Karakaya 724 00:31:39,375 --> 00:31:42,074 set out every day from the nearby village of Sercin 725 00:31:42,204 --> 00:31:44,903 in pursuit of an unexpected delicacy. 726 00:31:45,033 --> 00:31:46,948 We try to catch the eels. 727 00:31:47,079 --> 00:31:50,473 -You've got traps all over here. -All over here are traps, yeah. 728 00:31:50,604 --> 00:31:52,998 To catch these Lake Bafa eels, 729 00:31:53,128 --> 00:31:55,696 Akin comes in the afternoon to set the traps 730 00:31:55,826 --> 00:31:58,612 and then returns in the early morning to check them. 731 00:31:58,742 --> 00:32:00,831 -Aha, you got some. -Yep, yep. 732 00:32:00,962 --> 00:32:03,051 Yeah, now we're going to use the net. 733 00:32:03,182 --> 00:32:04,923 There we are. 734 00:32:05,053 --> 00:32:07,186 So, now into the basin. 735 00:32:07,316 --> 00:32:08,535 [Peter] Wow. 736 00:32:08,665 --> 00:32:11,625 -[eels splash] -Okay. The next one. 737 00:32:11,755 --> 00:32:13,670 [Peter] You just string them right along. 738 00:32:13,801 --> 00:32:15,716 Akin has ten traps, 739 00:32:15,846 --> 00:32:17,500 all connected underwater. 740 00:32:17,631 --> 00:32:19,198 But not all of them catch. 741 00:32:19,328 --> 00:32:22,505 [Akin] Oh, this is empty. They don't like this one. 742 00:32:22,636 --> 00:32:24,333 -[Peter] Okay. -Maybe the other one. 743 00:32:24,464 --> 00:32:26,857 But he doesn't get discouraged. 744 00:32:26,988 --> 00:32:30,383 His family has been in Sercin for 800 years, 745 00:32:30,513 --> 00:32:33,168 surviving off the land and the water. 746 00:32:33,299 --> 00:32:35,127 You got anything in there? Ah, we do. 747 00:32:37,042 --> 00:32:38,957 -These are fresh-water eels? -Fresh-water eels. 748 00:32:39,087 --> 00:32:40,741 But they came from salt water too. 749 00:32:40,871 --> 00:32:42,525 [fisherman] Came from salt water. 750 00:32:42,656 --> 00:32:44,875 -Great. -[Peter] There we go. 751 00:32:45,006 --> 00:32:46,965 These eels are somewhat unusual, 752 00:32:47,095 --> 00:32:49,880 as they live in both fresh and salt water 753 00:32:50,011 --> 00:32:51,752 and they take an astounding route 754 00:32:51,882 --> 00:32:53,797 to get to Lake Bafa. 755 00:32:53,928 --> 00:32:56,539 Hatched in the Sargasso Sea in the west Atlantic, 756 00:32:56,670 --> 00:32:58,889 they spend three years crossing the ocean, 757 00:32:59,020 --> 00:33:01,675 the Mediterranean and the Aegean, 758 00:33:01,805 --> 00:33:03,590 then swim up the Meander River 759 00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:05,244 and into the lake. 760 00:33:05,374 --> 00:33:07,507 -[Akin] This is the last one. -[Peter] Last one. 761 00:33:07,637 --> 00:33:09,117 Whoa! 762 00:33:09,248 --> 00:33:11,119 Well, that's one big eel. 763 00:33:11,250 --> 00:33:12,686 How old is that guy? 764 00:33:12,816 --> 00:33:13,817 [Akin] Maybe 15 years old. 765 00:33:13,948 --> 00:33:15,254 [Peter] Seriously, 15 years old? 766 00:33:15,384 --> 00:33:16,298 [Akin] Yeah. 767 00:33:16,429 --> 00:33:18,474 I'd never seen an eel that big, 768 00:33:18,605 --> 00:33:21,129 so I wanted to try and get a closer look. 769 00:33:21,260 --> 00:33:22,783 Okay. Oops. Oh, my God. 770 00:33:22,913 --> 00:33:25,612 You can't. Whoa! 771 00:33:25,742 --> 00:33:27,396 Oh-oh-oh! 772 00:33:27,527 --> 00:33:29,224 -[Akin] Almost. -[laughs] 773 00:33:29,355 --> 00:33:31,139 That's why they say "slippery as an eel." 774 00:33:31,270 --> 00:33:32,793 Just for that, dinner. 775 00:33:32,923 --> 00:33:34,838 Not a bad morning's work. 776 00:33:34,969 --> 00:33:37,885 With the traps empty, we head back to shore. 777 00:33:46,372 --> 00:33:48,635 Sercin has less than a thousand residents 778 00:33:48,765 --> 00:33:50,506 and one restaurant. 779 00:33:50,637 --> 00:33:53,248 But the chef was happy to cook our fresh catch. 780 00:33:56,338 --> 00:33:58,862 -He's taking the backbone. -Uh-huh. 781 00:33:58,993 --> 00:34:02,953 And then after, we're going to put them to fire, grilling. 782 00:34:03,084 --> 00:34:05,260 Pretty simple. 783 00:34:05,391 --> 00:34:08,524 [Akin] It's the easiest thing in the world, cooking eels. 784 00:34:08,655 --> 00:34:11,397 Some people think eels are gross and slimy 785 00:34:11,527 --> 00:34:12,963 and wouldn't even touch them, 786 00:34:13,094 --> 00:34:15,662 while others think they're a delicacy. 787 00:34:15,792 --> 00:34:17,707 I'm going to try the local variety 788 00:34:17,838 --> 00:34:19,622 and decide for myself. 789 00:34:19,753 --> 00:34:21,276 Here we are. 790 00:34:25,672 --> 00:34:27,282 -Wow. -Yep. 791 00:34:27,413 --> 00:34:30,198 -Pre-oiled. -Yep. Ready to go. 792 00:34:30,329 --> 00:34:32,592 One-stop shopping. 793 00:34:32,722 --> 00:34:34,942 The fish that comes with its own oil. 794 00:34:37,118 --> 00:34:38,554 Delicious? 795 00:34:38,685 --> 00:34:40,513 While fresh eel 796 00:34:40,643 --> 00:34:42,732 and the rugged remote landscapes of Bafa 797 00:34:42,863 --> 00:34:45,779 may not be for everyone, 798 00:34:45,909 --> 00:34:48,129 60 miles south of Lake Bafa 799 00:34:48,260 --> 00:34:51,872 is one of the most popular destinations along the Aegean. 800 00:34:52,002 --> 00:34:53,961 The port city of Bodrum. 801 00:34:56,006 --> 00:34:58,139 Its two scenic bays are separated 802 00:34:58,270 --> 00:35:01,490 by the majestic Bodrum Castle, 803 00:35:01,621 --> 00:35:03,884 which was erected in the 1400s 804 00:35:04,014 --> 00:35:07,279 by the crusading knights of Saint John. 805 00:35:07,409 --> 00:35:10,543 The castle was constructed using stones and marble 806 00:35:10,673 --> 00:35:12,762 from the ruins of the ancient Carian city 807 00:35:12,893 --> 00:35:14,547 of Halicarnassus, 808 00:35:14,677 --> 00:35:16,897 which included the tomb of Mausolus, 809 00:35:17,027 --> 00:35:18,768 a massive mausoleum, 810 00:35:18,899 --> 00:35:20,901 built around 350 B.C., 811 00:35:21,031 --> 00:35:23,295 that is considered one of the seven wonders 812 00:35:23,425 --> 00:35:24,774 of the ancient world. 813 00:35:27,516 --> 00:35:29,170 But one of the most interesting 814 00:35:29,301 --> 00:35:30,824 ancient sites on this peninsula 815 00:35:30,954 --> 00:35:32,956 is far off the tourist track, 816 00:35:33,087 --> 00:35:36,090 so you'll need the right gear and the right guide 817 00:35:36,221 --> 00:35:38,353 to get there. 818 00:35:38,484 --> 00:35:40,529 -Hey, man. -Good morning, Peter. 819 00:35:40,660 --> 00:35:42,575 -How are ya? -I'm great. How about you? 820 00:35:42,705 --> 00:35:45,665 -Good. Let's do it. -Why not? Let's go. 821 00:35:45,795 --> 00:35:48,015 My guide is Deniz Kilic, 822 00:35:48,146 --> 00:35:50,626 a former motocross and enduro racer 823 00:35:50,757 --> 00:35:54,152 who has traveled by motorcycle all the way from Turkey 824 00:35:54,282 --> 00:35:56,763 to the southern tip of the African continent. 825 00:35:56,893 --> 00:35:59,940 Today we're just climbing a local mountain, 826 00:36:00,070 --> 00:36:01,942 not crossing an entire continent, 827 00:36:02,072 --> 00:36:04,945 so Deniz has suggested electric mountain bikes 828 00:36:05,075 --> 00:36:06,773 for this trip. 829 00:36:06,903 --> 00:36:09,515 We're heading up a route called the Leleg Way, 830 00:36:09,645 --> 00:36:11,299 named for the aboriginal people 831 00:36:11,430 --> 00:36:12,953 that inhabited this region 832 00:36:13,083 --> 00:36:15,825 as early as the 15th century B.C. 833 00:36:17,784 --> 00:36:20,047 115 miles of trails 834 00:36:20,178 --> 00:36:23,311 connect ancient Lelegian sites across the peninsula, 835 00:36:23,442 --> 00:36:26,401 and Deniz is taking me to one of the lesser known 836 00:36:26,532 --> 00:36:28,795 and best preserved spots in the region. 837 00:36:28,925 --> 00:36:29,970 So, this is it? 838 00:36:30,100 --> 00:36:31,798 For the bikes. 839 00:36:34,322 --> 00:36:37,978 It turns out we'll need to do some hiking as well. 840 00:36:38,108 --> 00:36:40,546 -How far to the top again? -Just around the corner. 841 00:36:40,676 --> 00:36:42,939 That's what you said ten minutes ago. 842 00:36:43,070 --> 00:36:46,639 But Deniz swears it will be worth it. 843 00:36:46,769 --> 00:36:48,641 Wow! That's a wow. 844 00:36:48,771 --> 00:36:50,643 Yes. Here we are. 845 00:36:50,773 --> 00:36:52,862 This is Gebe Kilise. 846 00:36:52,993 --> 00:36:54,603 [Peter] And that means? 847 00:36:54,734 --> 00:36:57,519 This means pregnant belly church. 848 00:36:57,650 --> 00:36:58,999 Interesting name. 849 00:36:59,129 --> 00:37:01,436 Yeah, but there is not any connection with church. 850 00:37:01,567 --> 00:37:03,743 This is grave, this is tombs. 851 00:37:03,873 --> 00:37:05,614 [Peter] Well, they picked the right location. 852 00:37:05,745 --> 00:37:08,008 [Deniz] Perfect location, top of the hill. 853 00:37:08,138 --> 00:37:09,444 -A tomb with a view. -Yeah. 854 00:37:09,575 --> 00:37:12,404 It's a real place for peace. 855 00:37:12,534 --> 00:37:15,233 Archaeologists believe this tomb was constructed 856 00:37:15,363 --> 00:37:17,844 over 2,600 years ago, 857 00:37:17,974 --> 00:37:20,150 but unlike the city of Halicarnassus, 858 00:37:20,281 --> 00:37:22,631 it has withstood the test of time. 859 00:37:22,762 --> 00:37:27,157 Mind your head. You go first, please. 860 00:37:27,288 --> 00:37:29,899 -Mind my step too. -Yes, please. 861 00:37:33,120 --> 00:37:34,643 [Peter] Another wow. 862 00:37:34,774 --> 00:37:36,819 This is a lot deeper than I thought. 863 00:37:40,301 --> 00:37:43,261 Outside, it's a huge dome as you see. 864 00:37:43,391 --> 00:37:44,697 Inside it's a beautiful pyramid. 865 00:37:44,827 --> 00:37:46,655 Who knew? 866 00:37:46,786 --> 00:37:49,876 So this has stood here for 2,600 years 867 00:37:50,006 --> 00:37:51,051 even with earthquakes. 868 00:37:51,181 --> 00:37:52,922 But with little damage. 869 00:37:53,053 --> 00:37:54,881 -Human damage. -Yes. 870 00:37:55,011 --> 00:37:57,579 Used to be one piece, but it's huge damage. 871 00:37:57,710 --> 00:38:00,147 -Thieves, burglars. -Grave robbers were coming here. 872 00:38:00,278 --> 00:38:02,236 [Deniz] That's right. They were looking for treasures. 873 00:38:02,367 --> 00:38:05,065 -Did they ever find them? -I hope not. [laughs] 874 00:38:05,195 --> 00:38:08,155 Very little has been found to reveal more 875 00:38:08,286 --> 00:38:10,853 about the Lelegian people and this tomb, 876 00:38:10,984 --> 00:38:13,900 so for now it remains a beautiful mystery. 877 00:38:14,030 --> 00:38:16,642 I gotta say, definitely worth the trip up. 878 00:38:16,772 --> 00:38:18,861 Well, one more thing left. 879 00:38:18,992 --> 00:38:20,254 What? 880 00:38:20,385 --> 00:38:21,777 We need to go down. 881 00:38:21,908 --> 00:38:23,170 Why are you laughing? 882 00:38:25,955 --> 00:38:29,002 Down is easier than up, 883 00:38:29,132 --> 00:38:31,265 as gravity works in my favor, 884 00:38:31,396 --> 00:38:33,833 bringing me back to the waters of the Aegean... 885 00:38:35,878 --> 00:38:38,620 and the most popular mode of transportation. 886 00:38:38,751 --> 00:38:40,970 Boats. 887 00:38:41,101 --> 00:38:43,930 Boats have long been part of the Aegean culture 888 00:38:44,060 --> 00:38:46,367 and so important to the city's history 889 00:38:46,498 --> 00:38:48,674 that the Bodrum Castle is now home 890 00:38:48,804 --> 00:38:51,111 to the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, 891 00:38:51,241 --> 00:38:53,766 which contains artifacts and reconstructions 892 00:38:53,896 --> 00:38:55,855 of ancient shipwrecks dating back 893 00:38:55,985 --> 00:38:59,380 to the 14th century B.C. 894 00:38:59,511 --> 00:39:03,776 Historically, boats were even used as currency here. 895 00:39:03,906 --> 00:39:07,649 Around 500 B.C., the ancient city of Halicarnassus 896 00:39:07,780 --> 00:39:11,000 actually paid taxes to Egypt with a trireme, 897 00:39:11,131 --> 00:39:15,135 a large ancient warship with three rows of oars. 898 00:39:15,265 --> 00:39:18,312 But it wasn't until sponge diving became prominent 899 00:39:18,443 --> 00:39:21,315 in the 1800s that boats were an integral part 900 00:39:21,446 --> 00:39:24,318 of Bodrum's economy and its culture. 901 00:39:24,449 --> 00:39:26,233 After World War II, 902 00:39:26,364 --> 00:39:27,669 sponge diving and boat building 903 00:39:27,800 --> 00:39:30,716 were at their peak and boatyards were popping up 904 00:39:30,846 --> 00:39:32,370 across the Bodrum peninsula 905 00:39:32,500 --> 00:39:36,330 to meet the growing demand of professional sponge divers. 906 00:39:36,461 --> 00:39:39,681 But by the 1980s, artificial sponge production 907 00:39:39,812 --> 00:39:41,857 had eroded the demand for natural sponges, 908 00:39:41,988 --> 00:39:44,730 and the divers, as well as the boatyards, 909 00:39:44,860 --> 00:39:46,775 began to disappear. 910 00:39:46,906 --> 00:39:51,127 Today in Bodrum, the boatyard is often a backyard, 911 00:39:51,258 --> 00:39:53,042 and a stroll through the back streets 912 00:39:53,173 --> 00:39:55,871 can reveal some impressive home projects. 913 00:39:56,002 --> 00:39:58,831 Hello! Anybody home? 914 00:39:58,961 --> 00:40:01,573 -Hey, Mustafa, how are you? -Hi there, welcome. 915 00:40:01,703 --> 00:40:02,878 -Can I come onboard? -Sure you can. 916 00:40:03,009 --> 00:40:04,184 Okay. 917 00:40:04,314 --> 00:40:07,448 Mustafa Ozkeskin is the latest generation 918 00:40:07,579 --> 00:40:09,711 of master boat builders in Bodrum, 919 00:40:09,842 --> 00:40:13,498 and he's currently working on his 23rd boat. 920 00:40:13,628 --> 00:40:15,282 All right, we're on. 921 00:40:15,413 --> 00:40:17,589 It's a traditional wood tirhandil, 922 00:40:17,719 --> 00:40:20,461 which was the boat of choice for sponge divers. 923 00:40:20,592 --> 00:40:23,029 The name is thought to come from the Greek word 924 00:40:23,159 --> 00:40:25,510 for "three to one," which relates to the boat 925 00:40:25,640 --> 00:40:27,729 being three times longer than it's wide. 926 00:40:27,860 --> 00:40:29,383 -Beautiful boat. -Thank you. 927 00:40:29,514 --> 00:40:31,733 -All wood. -It's all wood, yeah. 928 00:40:31,864 --> 00:40:33,039 What, mahogany? 929 00:40:33,169 --> 00:40:35,389 Mahogany and teak. 930 00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:37,217 But usually it's mahogany. 931 00:40:37,347 --> 00:40:39,828 And how long will it take you to finish this? 932 00:40:39,959 --> 00:40:42,570 -It's about 10, 11 months. -Almost a year. 933 00:40:42,701 --> 00:40:44,920 -Yeah, nearly a year. -And you designed it? 934 00:40:45,051 --> 00:40:47,793 Sure, we design it, but it's built by eye. 935 00:40:47,923 --> 00:40:49,142 So, what, no blueprint? 936 00:40:49,272 --> 00:40:50,752 -Nothing. -No computer. 937 00:40:50,883 --> 00:40:52,624 -Nothing, nothing, no, no. -Amazing. 938 00:40:52,754 --> 00:40:54,016 So, what are you working on today? 939 00:40:54,147 --> 00:40:56,149 -Come, I'll show you. -All right. 940 00:40:56,279 --> 00:40:59,021 Over the years, Mustafa has developed an instinct 941 00:40:59,152 --> 00:41:00,980 for how all the pieces come together 942 00:41:01,110 --> 00:41:03,765 to create one beautiful boat. 943 00:41:03,896 --> 00:41:04,940 These are heavy. 944 00:41:05,071 --> 00:41:07,073 Yeah, it's important for the boat. 945 00:41:07,203 --> 00:41:08,901 The heavier the wood, the better the boat? 946 00:41:09,031 --> 00:41:11,599 Yeah, it is very strong. Not very, very heavy. 947 00:41:13,166 --> 00:41:15,864 His best known boat was named Hizir, 948 00:41:15,995 --> 00:41:17,997 which has won several prestigious awards 949 00:41:18,127 --> 00:41:20,739 at the Bodrum Cup regattas. 950 00:41:20,869 --> 00:41:22,392 But for Mustafa, 951 00:41:22,523 --> 00:41:24,482 it's the tradition of wooden boat building 952 00:41:24,612 --> 00:41:26,005 that's far more important 953 00:41:26,135 --> 00:41:27,659 than any prize or award. 954 00:41:30,400 --> 00:41:32,272 -That's it? -After about eight hours. 955 00:41:35,188 --> 00:41:36,450 Took you eight hours to do this? 956 00:41:36,581 --> 00:41:38,278 -Yeah. -Wow. 957 00:41:38,408 --> 00:41:40,846 But the thing is I'm talking about this boat, 958 00:41:40,976 --> 00:41:44,023 the thing is, they are carrying a very important cargo. 959 00:41:44,153 --> 00:41:46,721 It's the heritage of the Ottoman Empire. 960 00:41:46,852 --> 00:41:49,289 So we have to spend time on it. 961 00:41:49,419 --> 00:41:51,683 -And keep your tradition alive. -Exactly. 962 00:41:51,813 --> 00:41:53,946 But people don't make wood boats that much anymore. 963 00:41:54,076 --> 00:41:56,992 Because people love easy things, easy to build. 964 00:41:57,123 --> 00:41:59,734 But this, it's my biggest hobby. 965 00:41:59,865 --> 00:42:02,041 -It's your love. -It's my love, exactly. 966 00:42:02,171 --> 00:42:03,956 Exactly. 967 00:42:04,086 --> 00:42:06,959 This passion for building traditional boats 968 00:42:07,089 --> 00:42:09,831 has been passed down for generations in Bodrum, 969 00:42:09,962 --> 00:42:12,791 starting with the master builders of the 1970s. 970 00:42:12,921 --> 00:42:14,793 Ziya Guvendiren 971 00:42:14,923 --> 00:42:16,272 and Nami Mehmet. 972 00:42:16,403 --> 00:42:18,623 But few of the masters still remain. 973 00:42:18,753 --> 00:42:22,409 My master, now he's about 76 years old. 974 00:42:22,540 --> 00:42:24,019 And he learned it from his master, 975 00:42:24,150 --> 00:42:25,325 so it goes like that. 976 00:42:25,455 --> 00:42:27,370 And who are you teaching? 977 00:42:27,501 --> 00:42:29,329 Actually, there's nobody with me 978 00:42:29,459 --> 00:42:31,897 because it's a difficult business, it's not easy. 979 00:42:32,027 --> 00:42:33,594 -You have to live it. -Yeah. 980 00:42:33,725 --> 00:42:36,118 You have to spend your time, your money. 981 00:42:36,249 --> 00:42:38,947 You can't make big money with this business. 982 00:42:39,078 --> 00:42:40,340 So, what keeps you doing it? 983 00:42:40,470 --> 00:42:43,169 Love. Love. 984 00:42:44,779 --> 00:42:47,390 [upbeat music playing] 985 00:42:47,521 --> 00:42:49,044 Here in Bodrum, 986 00:42:49,175 --> 00:42:52,570 the best way to understand the passion for wooden boats 987 00:42:52,700 --> 00:42:56,486 is to take one out on the water. 988 00:42:56,617 --> 00:43:00,055 And people come from all over Turkey and the world 989 00:43:00,186 --> 00:43:02,623 to do just that. 990 00:43:02,754 --> 00:43:04,407 [woman] When we come out here, 991 00:43:04,538 --> 00:43:06,888 it's to get away from the hustle and bustle. 992 00:43:07,019 --> 00:43:08,629 It's to find yourself, 993 00:43:08,760 --> 00:43:11,110 to find what's important to you. 994 00:43:11,240 --> 00:43:14,809 Because when you're out here, you're one with nature. 995 00:43:14,940 --> 00:43:17,116 And you are exposed to all the elements. 996 00:43:17,246 --> 00:43:20,772 Sight, smell, sound, feeling. 997 00:43:20,902 --> 00:43:23,557 And it's something you cannot capture 998 00:43:23,688 --> 00:43:26,429 when you're running around doing your daily life. 999 00:43:26,560 --> 00:43:27,909 And that's what brings us out. 1000 00:43:29,650 --> 00:43:32,218 For American ex-pat Dina Street, 1001 00:43:32,348 --> 00:43:35,395 the pull of the Aegean got her over 30 years ago, 1002 00:43:35,525 --> 00:43:37,919 when a major earthquake shook up her life 1003 00:43:38,050 --> 00:43:38,790 back in California. 1004 00:43:40,879 --> 00:43:43,533 And after the earthquake, I had the opportunity 1005 00:43:43,664 --> 00:43:46,449 to sort of reshift my life, so to say. 1006 00:43:46,580 --> 00:43:49,061 So I bought a one-way ticket and said, "Let's see what happens." 1007 00:43:49,191 --> 00:43:51,629 -Was it really a one-way ticket? -It was a one-way ticket. 1008 00:43:51,759 --> 00:43:54,370 And most of my friends from our university were shocked 1009 00:43:54,501 --> 00:43:56,155 that I was throwing away my education, 1010 00:43:56,285 --> 00:43:57,373 I was throwing away my life 1011 00:43:57,504 --> 00:43:59,245 to come and live in a fishing village. 1012 00:43:59,375 --> 00:44:02,596 Now, everyone's like, "Dina, when can I visit?" 1013 00:44:02,727 --> 00:44:04,554 [Peter chuckles] 1014 00:44:04,685 --> 00:44:06,600 Bodrum was a small fishing village 1015 00:44:06,731 --> 00:44:08,515 at the beginning of the 20th century, 1016 00:44:08,646 --> 00:44:11,039 with less than 10,000 residents. 1017 00:44:11,170 --> 00:44:13,302 But with the rise of the Turkish republic 1018 00:44:13,433 --> 00:44:15,435 and just a little tourism, 1019 00:44:15,565 --> 00:44:18,525 the city has grown dramatically. 1020 00:44:18,656 --> 00:44:20,527 Well, since you first came here, 1021 00:44:20,658 --> 00:44:21,789 Bodrum's gotten a little crowded. 1022 00:44:21,920 --> 00:44:23,225 It has indeed. 1023 00:44:23,356 --> 00:44:25,445 We've jumped from an official population 1024 00:44:25,575 --> 00:44:28,100 of about 20,000 people 1025 00:44:28,230 --> 00:44:30,450 to about one million 1026 00:44:30,580 --> 00:44:33,453 when all the Istanbul, Izmir, and Ankara people 1027 00:44:33,583 --> 00:44:35,803 come down to their summer villas. 1028 00:44:35,934 --> 00:44:37,718 So, how do you escape it? 1029 00:44:37,849 --> 00:44:41,069 You get on a boat and you come out here 1030 00:44:41,200 --> 00:44:42,680 and you have the whole sea to yourself. 1031 00:44:44,899 --> 00:44:47,597 And the real beauty of a traditional tirhandil, 1032 00:44:47,728 --> 00:44:48,729 it's a sailboat. 1033 00:44:50,775 --> 00:44:53,691 Once you raise the sails... 1034 00:44:53,821 --> 00:44:56,781 and cut the engine... 1035 00:44:56,911 --> 00:44:58,957 you eliminate all the background noise 1036 00:44:59,087 --> 00:45:01,655 of the modern world 1037 00:45:01,786 --> 00:45:03,918 and sail back into a time 1038 00:45:04,049 --> 00:45:06,442 when these boats dominated the Aegean. 1039 00:45:06,573 --> 00:45:07,792 In the 21st century, 1040 00:45:07,922 --> 00:45:10,011 there's something special about a wooden boat. 1041 00:45:10,142 --> 00:45:12,710 Absolutely. There's nothing artificial about it. 1042 00:45:12,840 --> 00:45:14,320 You're one with the sea. 1043 00:45:14,450 --> 00:45:16,888 The sound of the water, the sound of the wind. 1044 00:45:17,018 --> 00:45:18,237 And it's better 1045 00:45:18,367 --> 00:45:20,630 than any psychiatrist could ever do for you. 1046 00:45:20,761 --> 00:45:24,025 [chuckles] Now you expect me to go back to California? 1047 00:45:24,156 --> 00:45:27,376 [Dina laughs] Up to you. 1048 00:45:27,507 --> 00:45:28,856 I've got a boat for sale. 1049 00:45:28,987 --> 00:45:31,511 [chuckles] 1050 00:45:31,641 --> 00:45:33,165 You may have a buyer. 1051 00:45:33,295 --> 00:45:35,907 [Dina laughs] I can make you a deal. 1052 00:45:36,037 --> 00:45:37,473 Now, that's American. 1053 00:45:37,604 --> 00:45:39,824 No, I take that back, that's Turkish. 1054 00:45:39,954 --> 00:45:41,434 Exactly. 1055 00:45:46,265 --> 00:45:49,747 It's certainly tempting to have a boat here, 1056 00:45:49,877 --> 00:45:52,967 as the coastline heading south and east to the Mediterranean 1057 00:45:53,098 --> 00:45:55,056 is known as the Turquoise Coast... 1058 00:45:57,276 --> 00:45:59,713 named for its beautiful beaches 1059 00:45:59,844 --> 00:46:02,498 and stunning blue-green water. 1060 00:46:02,629 --> 00:46:04,326 The word "turquoise" comes 1061 00:46:04,457 --> 00:46:06,154 from the French word for Turkish, 1062 00:46:06,285 --> 00:46:08,417 after the gemstone of the same color 1063 00:46:08,548 --> 00:46:10,985 that was first brought to Europe through Turkey. 1064 00:46:12,682 --> 00:46:14,119 From Bodrum, 1065 00:46:14,249 --> 00:46:17,252 the Aegean wraps around the southwestern tip of Turkey, 1066 00:46:17,383 --> 00:46:20,865 connecting to the deeper waters of the Mediterranean, 1067 00:46:20,995 --> 00:46:23,650 along the edge of a small tectonic plate 1068 00:46:23,781 --> 00:46:27,219 bounded by the Greek islands of Crete and Rhodes, 1069 00:46:27,349 --> 00:46:29,917 then intersecting with the Turkish coastline 1070 00:46:30,048 --> 00:46:34,052 near the historic fishing village of Dalyan. 1071 00:46:34,182 --> 00:46:36,794 Off the beaten path of Turkish vacationers 1072 00:46:36,924 --> 00:46:38,230 and cruise ships 1073 00:46:38,360 --> 00:46:40,623 that can inundate other coastal destinations, 1074 00:46:40,754 --> 00:46:42,669 Dalyan is a hidden gem. 1075 00:46:45,063 --> 00:46:47,587 The town sits on the winding Dalyan River, 1076 00:46:47,717 --> 00:46:50,590 between the great expanse of Lake Koycegiz 1077 00:46:50,720 --> 00:46:53,027 and the protected sand beach of Iztuzu, 1078 00:46:53,158 --> 00:46:55,334 which is a preferred nesting site 1079 00:46:55,464 --> 00:46:58,772 for loggerhead sea turtles. 1080 00:46:58,903 --> 00:47:01,819 Across the river, 3,000-year-old tombs, 1081 00:47:01,949 --> 00:47:03,429 carved into the cliffs, 1082 00:47:03,559 --> 00:47:06,345 tower over the ancient city of Kaunos, 1083 00:47:06,475 --> 00:47:08,303 which was an important port 1084 00:47:08,434 --> 00:47:12,220 before silt from the river filled up its bay. 1085 00:47:12,351 --> 00:47:15,397 The word "dalyan" means fish weir, 1086 00:47:15,528 --> 00:47:17,443 which look like wooden fences 1087 00:47:17,573 --> 00:47:20,663 placed in the water to catch fish. 1088 00:47:20,794 --> 00:47:22,274 The river has long been 1089 00:47:22,404 --> 00:47:24,363 the lifeblood of this community 1090 00:47:24,493 --> 00:47:28,280 and boats remain the main mode of transportation. 1091 00:47:30,673 --> 00:47:32,545 I take a boat to the beach. 1092 00:47:32,675 --> 00:47:34,242 I take a boat to the market. 1093 00:47:34,373 --> 00:47:37,158 And this isn't me, this is, like, the whole expat community. 1094 00:47:37,289 --> 00:47:39,857 About 40% of the population in Dalyan are expats. 1095 00:47:42,381 --> 00:47:44,905 Leyla Ergil is an American expat, 1096 00:47:45,036 --> 00:47:47,821 who came to Turkey back in 2004 1097 00:47:47,952 --> 00:47:52,086 on a Fulbright scholarship and never went back. 1098 00:47:52,217 --> 00:47:54,654 Today she's invited me onboard a boat 1099 00:47:54,784 --> 00:47:57,265 owned by expats and filled with expats, 1100 00:47:57,396 --> 00:47:59,093 that's heading across the lake 1101 00:47:59,224 --> 00:48:00,747 on their weekly grocery run. 1102 00:48:00,878 --> 00:48:03,141 We go to the Koycegiz market, 1103 00:48:03,271 --> 00:48:06,361 because that market is spectacular. 1104 00:48:06,492 --> 00:48:08,755 And they let us off for, like, two hours, 1105 00:48:08,886 --> 00:48:10,800 and we sort of walk around the market 1106 00:48:10,931 --> 00:48:12,280 and do our shopping 1107 00:48:12,411 --> 00:48:14,761 and then some of us go swimming in the lake, like me, 1108 00:48:14,892 --> 00:48:16,719 and then some go and sit at the café, 1109 00:48:16,850 --> 00:48:19,766 and then the boat comes back, picks us all up, 1110 00:48:19,897 --> 00:48:21,811 and then brings us back to Dalyan. 1111 00:48:21,942 --> 00:48:23,204 So, let me see if I get this straight. 1112 00:48:23,335 --> 00:48:26,077 It's boats to beaches, to shopping, to eating. 1113 00:48:26,207 --> 00:48:28,035 -Yes. -Not a bad lifestyle. 1114 00:48:28,166 --> 00:48:30,777 [Leyla] No, not at all. 1115 00:48:30,908 --> 00:48:32,605 This may sound like a vacation, 1116 00:48:32,735 --> 00:48:35,825 but it's everyday life for a digital nomad like Leyla, 1117 00:48:35,956 --> 00:48:37,523 who travels the country researching 1118 00:48:37,653 --> 00:48:38,828 and writing stories 1119 00:48:38,959 --> 00:48:40,308 for the biggest English-language newspaper 1120 00:48:40,439 --> 00:48:41,962 in Turkey. 1121 00:48:42,093 --> 00:48:45,052 You know, I'm nearing into, like, my thousandth article 1122 00:48:45,183 --> 00:48:47,968 on Turkish culture, history, expat endeavors, 1123 00:48:48,099 --> 00:48:51,363 or anything that interests expats. 1124 00:48:51,493 --> 00:48:54,235 -You running out of ideas? -Never, not in Turkey. 1125 00:48:54,366 --> 00:48:56,759 There's so much history and so many different sites to see 1126 00:48:56,890 --> 00:48:58,761 that I'm always traveling, 1127 00:48:58,892 --> 00:49:03,114 but within an hour or two hours driving distance maximum, 1128 00:49:03,244 --> 00:49:05,899 you can be at an ancient site, a spectacular beach, 1129 00:49:06,030 --> 00:49:10,121 or a bustling city or boardroom. 1130 00:49:10,251 --> 00:49:12,601 Well, being on this beautiful water on this beautiful boat 1131 00:49:12,732 --> 00:49:14,473 on this beautiful day, I'm almost hesitant to ask, 1132 00:49:14,603 --> 00:49:16,997 but, is there a downside? 1133 00:49:17,128 --> 00:49:19,217 It's a whole different mentality here. 1134 00:49:19,347 --> 00:49:22,785 Things do not go according to time schedules 1135 00:49:22,916 --> 00:49:24,439 that westerners are used to, 1136 00:49:24,570 --> 00:49:28,574 so there is an adjustment curve for English expats 1137 00:49:28,704 --> 00:49:31,272 who maybe want things at a certain time. 1138 00:49:31,403 --> 00:49:33,709 So the motto for the Aegean is, "It happens when it happens." 1139 00:49:33,840 --> 00:49:35,537 Exactly. Yeah. 1140 00:49:35,668 --> 00:49:37,452 -But in a good way. -In a great way. 1141 00:49:37,583 --> 00:49:40,716 It's a real slower way of life, especially in the villages 1142 00:49:40,847 --> 00:49:42,805 and towns I've lived in in the Aegean. 1143 00:49:42,936 --> 00:49:46,461 For Leyla, it's clearly not just the natural beauty 1144 00:49:46,592 --> 00:49:49,334 and dramatic history that draws her to this region. 1145 00:49:49,464 --> 00:49:51,292 It's the people as well. 1146 00:49:51,423 --> 00:49:54,774 The Turks have very strong values and they live by them. 1147 00:49:54,904 --> 00:49:56,341 They're very honorable, 1148 00:49:56,471 --> 00:49:58,778 and they like to share. 1149 00:49:58,908 --> 00:50:00,388 They're very generous. 1150 00:50:00,519 --> 00:50:03,783 They feel gratitude for everything. 1151 00:50:03,913 --> 00:50:07,047 It's that personality and this mentality of the Turks 1152 00:50:07,178 --> 00:50:09,441 that also just makes it so special here. 1153 00:50:09,571 --> 00:50:12,792 -So, this is home? -Yes. Definitely. 1154 00:50:12,922 --> 00:50:15,534 While the expats like to head north 1155 00:50:15,664 --> 00:50:17,188 to the market in Koycegiz... 1156 00:50:19,755 --> 00:50:22,715 to the south, beyond Radar Mountain, 1157 00:50:22,845 --> 00:50:24,412 there's a little-known destination 1158 00:50:24,543 --> 00:50:26,197 that has just about everything you need... 1159 00:50:26,327 --> 00:50:27,807 Oh, look what you got here. 1160 00:50:27,937 --> 00:50:29,461 Mountain goats. 1161 00:50:29,591 --> 00:50:31,202 There they go. 1162 00:50:31,332 --> 00:50:32,507 ...in a much more rustic setting. 1163 00:50:34,944 --> 00:50:38,252 But the rough roads are worth the trip 1164 00:50:38,383 --> 00:50:41,560 as Kargicak Koyu is a stunning hidden bay 1165 00:50:41,690 --> 00:50:44,998 that few travelers know about. 1166 00:50:45,129 --> 00:50:47,348 And if you can tear yourself away from the beach 1167 00:50:47,479 --> 00:50:49,089 to head inland, 1168 00:50:49,220 --> 00:50:51,265 you'll be surprised to discover 1169 00:50:51,396 --> 00:50:53,659 rows of citrus trees and vegetables 1170 00:50:53,789 --> 00:50:56,575 spreading back to the base of the mountains. 1171 00:50:56,705 --> 00:50:58,316 It's a pretty big farm. 1172 00:50:58,446 --> 00:51:01,710 It's 30,000 square meters in total. 1173 00:51:01,841 --> 00:51:06,324 And we have vegetable garden as 2,000 square meters here. 1174 00:51:06,454 --> 00:51:09,240 -Wow. -Right there, around this part. 1175 00:51:09,370 --> 00:51:12,199 Orcun Dundar was living in Istanbul, 1176 00:51:12,330 --> 00:51:16,029 when he first discovered Kargicak Bay in 2017 1177 00:51:16,160 --> 00:51:20,338 and in less than a year began this seaside organic farm 1178 00:51:20,468 --> 00:51:22,514 that has become a simple summer home 1179 00:51:22,644 --> 00:51:24,603 for the small team that supports it. 1180 00:51:27,171 --> 00:51:29,999 Orcun is happy to show off their crops 1181 00:51:30,130 --> 00:51:33,307 and take advantage of a couple of extra hands. 1182 00:51:33,438 --> 00:51:35,135 We have some peppers ready here. 1183 00:51:35,266 --> 00:51:38,356 -Okay. -We can grab some of them. 1184 00:51:38,486 --> 00:51:40,706 -Just pick them like this? -Yeah, yeah, yeah. 1185 00:51:40,836 --> 00:51:42,925 I may have grown up in New York City, 1186 00:51:43,056 --> 00:51:46,059 but I still know my way around the garden. 1187 00:51:46,190 --> 00:51:47,321 -Oh, my God. -Yeah. 1188 00:51:47,452 --> 00:51:50,150 And we have a different type of pepper here. 1189 00:51:50,281 --> 00:51:52,239 You see? 1190 00:51:52,370 --> 00:51:54,023 Oh, yeah. These are hot? 1191 00:51:54,154 --> 00:51:55,895 -Maybe, let's see. [laughs] -Oh, maybe. 1192 00:51:56,025 --> 00:51:57,636 Yeah, hot. 1193 00:51:57,766 --> 00:52:02,249 They grow an amazing variety of produce on this small farm, 1194 00:52:02,380 --> 00:52:04,556 which is prepared with locally caught fish 1195 00:52:04,686 --> 00:52:06,819 to create seasonal dishes for visitors 1196 00:52:06,949 --> 00:52:10,039 who are lucky enough to make the journey to get here. 1197 00:52:13,086 --> 00:52:16,437 But I'm more at home on the water than in the kitchen. 1198 00:52:16,568 --> 00:52:20,137 So while they prepare the food, I head out with Mehmet, 1199 00:52:20,267 --> 00:52:23,096 Orcun's business partner, to explore the sea. 1200 00:52:26,055 --> 00:52:29,146 If we continued east into the Mediterranean, 1201 00:52:29,276 --> 00:52:32,801 we would discover the ancient city of Patara, 1202 00:52:32,932 --> 00:52:36,979 from a historic republic that inspired our own democracy, 1203 00:52:37,110 --> 00:52:39,591 as well as Gocek Harbor, 1204 00:52:39,721 --> 00:52:42,115 which is as impressive as the massive yachts 1205 00:52:42,246 --> 00:52:43,551 that dock there. 1206 00:52:48,295 --> 00:52:51,690 For now, I'm more interested in the hidden coves 1207 00:52:51,820 --> 00:52:56,347 and secret beaches around Kargicak Bay. 1208 00:52:56,477 --> 00:52:58,697 And motoring across these blue-green waters... 1209 00:53:01,178 --> 00:53:03,832 I'm reminded of the mix of cultures I've experienced 1210 00:53:03,963 --> 00:53:06,139 along this coastline. 1211 00:53:06,270 --> 00:53:07,619 From the city of Troy, 1212 00:53:07,749 --> 00:53:11,753 where treasures of Greek legends have been discovered 1213 00:53:11,884 --> 00:53:14,887 and lost, 1214 00:53:15,017 --> 00:53:17,324 to the Roman ruins of Ephesus, 1215 00:53:17,455 --> 00:53:19,370 so incredibly preserved, 1216 00:53:19,500 --> 00:53:21,807 and aboriginal monuments, 1217 00:53:21,937 --> 00:53:24,766 magnificent tombs with a view, 1218 00:53:26,681 --> 00:53:28,944 to the hidden synagogues of Izmir, 1219 00:53:29,075 --> 00:53:30,946 where an exiled Spanish culture 1220 00:53:31,077 --> 00:53:33,166 is being reborn. 1221 00:53:33,297 --> 00:53:35,342 Beautiful. Beautiful. 1222 00:53:37,257 --> 00:53:39,172 Although things that are uniquely Turkish 1223 00:53:39,303 --> 00:53:40,565 stand out in my memory. 1224 00:53:42,306 --> 00:53:44,438 From an ancient agora that has evolved 1225 00:53:44,569 --> 00:53:47,789 into a giant outdoor bazaar, 1226 00:53:47,920 --> 00:53:50,792 a modern vineyard grown on terraces, 1227 00:53:50,923 --> 00:53:53,708 from the earliest history of wines. 1228 00:53:53,839 --> 00:53:57,582 The Meander River, named for its bends. 1229 00:53:57,712 --> 00:54:00,846 And a local eggplant dish, named for its scream. 1230 00:54:00,976 --> 00:54:01,847 -[sizzling] -Whoa! 1231 00:54:01,977 --> 00:54:03,196 [laughs] 1232 00:54:03,327 --> 00:54:05,938 Ultimately it was the history of the sea 1233 00:54:06,068 --> 00:54:08,767 where I felt the strongest connection, 1234 00:54:08,897 --> 00:54:12,074 from a master boat builder continuing traditions 1235 00:54:12,205 --> 00:54:14,076 passed on for generations, 1236 00:54:14,207 --> 00:54:16,862 to the beautiful wooden boats 1237 00:54:16,992 --> 00:54:20,735 that have sailed these waters for hundreds of years. 1238 00:54:20,866 --> 00:54:24,609 And then back to Kargicak Bay, 1239 00:54:24,739 --> 00:54:27,742 where the warm waters of the Aegean and Mediterranean 1240 00:54:27,873 --> 00:54:29,614 mix together, 1241 00:54:29,744 --> 00:54:33,487 uniting the past and the present, 1242 00:54:33,618 --> 00:54:36,969 in a seascape of inescapable beauty, 1243 00:54:37,099 --> 00:54:39,667 just a small moment in time 1244 00:54:39,798 --> 00:54:43,105 in the realm of Turkey's hidden Aegean. 1245 00:54:46,370 --> 00:54:48,197 [upbeat music playing]