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Downloaded from
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Official YIFY movies site:
YTS.MX
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[hip-hop instrumental music playing]
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[Misa Hylton] Women in hip-hop fashion
don't always get the light we deserve,
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in some instances
the respect that we deserve.
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And we've always been there
from the beginning.
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[April Walker] I was always very concerned
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about putting out there
that I was a female,
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because of double oppression.
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We have gender and race.
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Black culture, Black fashion,
Black bodies is always cool
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as long as it's not on Black people.
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And that's the notion
that we've been disrupting.
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[Dapper Dan] Hip-hop is
the first platform ever
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that we've been able
to make real progress with globally.
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Others has always capitalized
off our cultural platform.
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Our music, and our fashion,
we keep creating new culture.
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This is our time.
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Remixing has a long history.
It's very old.
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You have to go back to slavery.
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We as Black people, we had nothing.
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But we had an incredible imagination.
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We've combined that
with a sense of survival.
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We would take the oftentimes discarded
clothing of the white establishment
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and make it our own.
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We would put different things together
that shouldn't be together,
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and yet it creates something new,
and exciting, and different
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that was unexpected.
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So, that same idea of deconstruction
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is part of the Black experience
in this country.
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[Walker] It's all the same landscape
of African Americans
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that wanted to express pain,
express creativity that's on the inside.
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And we have to pour it somewhere,
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and so hip-hop became the somewhere
for our culture, and our time period.
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[hip-hop instrumental music playing]
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[Mimi Valdes] Hip-hop started to have
its own community,
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its own dances, its own style.
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Just showing a different side of fashion
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that I don't think anyone
had ever seen before.
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[Bevy Smith] Misa Hylton came along
and really upped the ante.
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She took traditional fashion, looks,
and a style and a sprit,
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and she gave it that Black edge.
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She's responsible for some of the most
amazing looks that we've seen in hip-hop.
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I mean, people need to know her name.
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Ah! I'm home. I love this store so much.
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It brings back so many memories.
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[Hylton] Fashion
for African American people
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is extremely important.
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It's something that we take pride in.
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It is how we express ourselves.
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-Mmm-hmm.
-Like the red...
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Right...
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[Hylton] It's just so natural,
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you know, the way that we do our hair,
the way that we get dressed every day,
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the fashion that we gravitate to.
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It's so interesting, and it's different.
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It inspired me as a child.
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But I never could've imagined
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how powerful what I created
as a stylist would become,
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and how it has gone so far out,
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it has gone around the world
and come back.
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Misa always took it over the top.
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We were always together, hanging out.
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I wasn't really big on fashion.
But Misa always stood out.
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Misa was in her early teens.
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I woke up one morning and Misa came,
her hair was blonde,
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almost a platinum blonde.
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I said, "Misa,
what did you do to your hair?"
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She said, "I was out in the sun."
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Now... [chuckles]
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[Hylton] Hip-hop music led me
to the fashion.
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Growing up, rap came on the radio
Friday night and Saturday night.
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I would have my stereo on,
pause, play, record,
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ready to tape
the hottest songs that were out.
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And I would lay across my purple rug,
and I would daydream.
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[hip-hop music playing]
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Everything about hip-hop,
the words, the beat, the energy
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inspired me to think about wardrobe,
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and I would be styling
these artists in my head.
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I grew up naive thinking that
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most of these rappers that
I was looking up to dressed themselves.
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And then, I found out that it was
Misa Hylton behind these iconic looks,
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and when you find out
the people behind it,
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it makes the story of that more special.
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Misa essentially informed
a generation of everything.
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And I knew that I wanted to do that also.
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[piano music playing]
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[Jean-Raymond] I started designing
when I was 13.
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I've been designing now for 18 years.
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As a kid I was really into brands
like Karl Kani, Cross Colours, FUBU.
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I was interested in design that was
made by people that looked like me.
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Hip-hop taught me everything
I knew about fashion.
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In high school, when I would walk
around 5th Avenue,
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I couldn't afford anything,
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but I would go window shop
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whichever of these stores that I felt
comfortable enough to walk into.
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I would only pick the names
that I recognized from hip-hop songs.
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[hip-hop music playing]
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"Roxanne, Roxanne,"
that was my inspiration.
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["Roxanne's Revenge" playing]
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To see a young woman who looked like me,
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that let me know that
there was a place for me in hip-hop.
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♪ Well, my name is Roxanne
A-don't ya know ♪
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♪ I just a-cold rock a party
And I do this show ♪
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I literally remember
freezing in my bedroom,
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being very confused because this sounded
like someone who was my age.
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She was cursing, and she was dissing dudes
with the hottest record in New York.
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♪ He would be fired ♪
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♪ He wears a Kangol, and that is cute ♪
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♪ He ain't got money
And he ain't got the loot ♪
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The next day at school,
everybody was talking about it,
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because we had just never heard
a girl spit like that before.
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♪ The R-O-X-A-N-N-E ♪
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A lot of the early female pioneers,
like Lisa Lee,
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Debbie D, Roxanne, people like that,
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oftentimes their style would be
in line with what men were wearing.
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[funk music playing]
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[Elena Romero]
In the early days of hip-hop,
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women had to actually hide
their femininity.
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Even wearing pink would be considered
a sign of weakness.
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[Valdes] In the video,
she put this fur coat on.
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I remember being like, wow,
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that just seemed so crazy to me
that someone could have that sort of
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Upper East Side rich-lady style,
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but it did not look like
the ladies on the Upper East Side.
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[Holman] With hip-hop,
there's a style, there's a look.
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Everything had to look brand-new.
Brand-new Lee jeans.
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Brand-new IZOD shirts.
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Brand-new sneakers.
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If you stepped on their sneakers
and ruined their sneakers,
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that was a fight.
You could die behind that.
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And these are poor and working-class kids.
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You take something
that has been established,
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that has its own history,
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and you recreate it to address your needs,
your comforts, your fit, your mood.
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And not only do you recreate it,
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but you claim it, you own it,
and you make it yours.
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Hip-hop has a love affair
with luxury brands,
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because it symbolizes
the fact that you've made it.
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[Smith] It didn't necessarily
have to be about it being a label,
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maybe you're wearing a pair of jodhpurs,
and you're never going to ride a horse.
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Or I remember a whole summer
we just wore tennis outfits,
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including carrying around tennis rackets.
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And we did not play any tennis.
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[hip-hop music playing]
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[Rhonda Garelick] These logo names
and luxury goods
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often come to stand in
for political and personal freedom
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that they're not about, right.
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They're about exclusion and
reappropriating them can feel liberating.
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But I think even more liberating
is to ironize them,
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like a Dapper Dan has done.
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[funk music playing]
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I knew growing up poor, holes in my shoes,
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how transformative
being able to dress could mean.
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Like, no matter where you live,
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if you've got a beautiful outfit,
and you put it on, and you go downtown,
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nobody's better than you.
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Fashion houses was becoming popular.
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But people in Harlem
weren't familiar with that yet.
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But I saw that this might be something.
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One day a customer came in,
and they had a Louis Vuitton pouch.
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Everybody knew this guy was
a big-time hustler,
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so everybody was admiring the pouch.
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And I thought to myself,
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if they were that excited over that pouch,
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imagine how excited they would be
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if I can make them complete outfits
just like that pouch.
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So I began the journey
to teach myself textile printing.
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So now I got a brand-new luxury item
that could have these people with money
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be identified that I'm rich,
I made it, that I'm somebody.
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I'm Dapper Dan from Dapper Dan's Boutique,
East 125th Street in Harlem,
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and I'm the designer for the stars.
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Something that we're doing here for LL.
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The style is African,
but the logo is more American.
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The gold and black,
they're into the designer-looking things.
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Gold and black like that.
This is the rich designer guy look.
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Dapper Dan was a cut-up artist.
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He cut up these logos,
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a Louis Vuitton logo, or a Gucci logo,
or an MCM logo,
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and he's deconstructing them,
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and twisting them, and turning them
into something it was never meant to be.
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But it looks dope,
so I'm going to rock it.
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-♪ Party to the music ♪
-♪ Get up and dance to the music ♪
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He elevated the game.
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-♪ Dance to the music ♪
-♪ Get up and dance to the music ♪
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Not only was he customizing clothes,
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but in fact he had
a custom body shop in East Harlem
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well before MTV had Pimp Your Ride.
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Everybody was trying to outdo everybody,
that's it.
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Some guys could only afford
to get their tire covered.
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Other guys could get their whole top done.
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All of this is showing
a level of achievement.
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When I opened up that store,
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I knew the clients
that I was going to be dealing with
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were night people, gangsters and hustlers.
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Why not just open 24 hours a day,
so that I can cater to the night people?
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Because the streets was teeming with money
at night.
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My friend said,
"Let's go visit Dapper Dan's."
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And it was like the Willy Wonka
of fashion for me.
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When I walked in, I was overwhelmed
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because it was a vertical operation
that had all the tailors.
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And he was making Gucci and Louis Vuitton
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better than they were making
those styles at that time.
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And then he was 24/7, right? Genius.
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After visiting Dapper Dan's,
it was like an epiphany that went off.
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We do not have this in Brooklyn.
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Fashion in Effect was my first shop
in the heart of Bed-Stuy.
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Fashion in Effect was this, like,
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melting pot of anybody
from graffiti artists,
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to Biggie Smalls walking into
this tiny little hole-in-the-wall.
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Our customers would say,
"I want deeper pockets."
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At the time men couldn't even fit
their hands all the way in their pockets.
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"We want our bottoms to be able to fit
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inside of the Timberland
or outside of the Timberland."
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And from that we made something called
the "rough and rugged suit."
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And it just caught on.
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And so I knew we have something here.
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I decided,
I'm going to start a clothing line.
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So that was the beginning of Walker Wear.
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I decided not to be
at the forefront of the brand,
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because I knew if I market the fact
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that there's a female behind
a menswear brand, it's gonna fail.
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People wondered
if it was Jam Master Jay's line,
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they wondered if it was Treach's line,
because he repped it a lot.
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I didn't do a lot of interviews
at that time.
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I let the product pave the way.
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After it became mainstream,
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then people said, "Oh, it's April, okay."
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I almost feel like
I had to be like "A-ha, fooled you."
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Women have always had to
figure out being taken seriously.
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And I'll never forget the best advice
I got from a fashion executive
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who told me, "Elena, for you
to succeed in this business,
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you have to keep in mind three things.
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First, a man wants to see
if he can fuck you.
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Then, he wants to see
if he can fuck you over.
236
00:14:47,595 --> 00:14:51,390
And lastly, he wants to see
if he can fucking get you out the picture.
237
00:14:52,308 --> 00:14:55,185
If you can keep
these three things in mind,
238
00:14:55,269 --> 00:14:56,645
then you can go a long way."
239
00:14:59,857 --> 00:15:03,360
[Hylton] When you are a woman
in hip-hop fashion,
240
00:15:03,444 --> 00:15:09,074
you are someone who gives to the culture
a lot of times behind the scenes.
241
00:15:09,158 --> 00:15:11,410
That hasn't always been easy for us.
242
00:15:14,705 --> 00:15:17,082
When I was about 15 years old,
243
00:15:17,166 --> 00:15:21,003
I went to the Apollo Theater
to see Ice Cube,
244
00:15:21,086 --> 00:15:23,923
and I saw a familiar face.
245
00:15:24,006 --> 00:15:26,342
And that was Sean Combs.
246
00:15:26,425 --> 00:15:29,595
Sean and I started to talk.
We exchanged phone numbers.
247
00:15:29,678 --> 00:15:32,848
Early on I noticed
how ambitious this guy was.
248
00:15:33,557 --> 00:15:38,437
Shortly after we started dating,
he became A&R director at Uptown Records.
249
00:15:39,355 --> 00:15:44,026
One of Sean's first artists
where he got to oversee the whole album
250
00:15:44,109 --> 00:15:45,986
was a Jodeci project.
251
00:15:46,070 --> 00:15:48,739
Up until that point,
R&B singers dressed up most of the time.
252
00:15:49,823 --> 00:15:53,327
But Puffy had this idea
to create a look for them
253
00:15:53,410 --> 00:15:57,873
that was really edgy,
and that would appeal to our demographic.
254
00:15:59,917 --> 00:16:02,962
I was hanging out at Uptown Records
one day after high school,
255
00:16:03,045 --> 00:16:07,174
and Sean told me that
he needed to go into Andre's office
256
00:16:07,257 --> 00:16:09,426
and let him know what the idea was.
257
00:16:09,510 --> 00:16:11,512
So he asked me to come
into the meeting with him.
258
00:16:13,097 --> 00:16:15,599
We were nervous, we were like,
"Okay, so you going to say this?
259
00:16:15,683 --> 00:16:18,769
You going to say this? Okay, I'm going
to tell him about the combat boots.
260
00:16:18,852 --> 00:16:20,729
I'm going to tell him about the hoodies."
261
00:16:20,813 --> 00:16:22,856
We get into the room,
262
00:16:22,940 --> 00:16:26,318
Andre Harrell is sitting behind his desk,
and he's like,
263
00:16:26,402 --> 00:16:28,696
"Absolutely not. Are you kidding me?
264
00:16:28,779 --> 00:16:31,949
These guys are singers.
You're making them look like rappers."
265
00:16:32,032 --> 00:16:34,702
And we were like,
"But that's what's going to make it hot."
266
00:16:34,785 --> 00:16:36,578
He was like, "No."
267
00:16:36,662 --> 00:16:41,709
Two hours later, we talked him into it,
and that was the "I Gotta Love" video.
268
00:16:41,792 --> 00:16:45,546
♪ Your place or mine
Tell me what will it be ♪
269
00:16:45,629 --> 00:16:49,133
♪ I've got something
I would like for you to see ♪
270
00:16:49,216 --> 00:16:53,387
[Joan Morgan] I had kind of heard rumors
that there was a Jodeci video,
271
00:16:53,470 --> 00:16:56,849
and that Puffy was also a stylist.
And I was like, "How he is a stylist?
272
00:16:56,932 --> 00:16:58,559
I don't understand what's going on."
273
00:16:58,642 --> 00:17:01,186
And then Misa's name started to come up,
274
00:17:01,270 --> 00:17:03,939
and I was like, "Oh, okay,
so there was another vision there."
275
00:17:04,023 --> 00:17:08,068
♪ I got a treat for you
Don't be afraid, baby ♪
276
00:17:08,152 --> 00:17:12,156
The role that Misa played,
and why I feel Misa was so successful
277
00:17:12,239 --> 00:17:18,120
is that she was like
one of the great interpretators
278
00:17:18,203 --> 00:17:20,122
of what the subculture really wants.
279
00:17:20,205 --> 00:17:22,416
She really understands the street.
280
00:17:22,541 --> 00:17:24,209
-♪ Tell me ♪
-♪ I gotta love ♪
281
00:17:24,293 --> 00:17:30,299
That look became so popular
that a lot of R&B male groups modeled it.
282
00:17:33,302 --> 00:17:36,638
And that was my first experience
as a fashion stylist.
283
00:17:38,015 --> 00:17:41,018
I didn't realize
that styling was a career.
284
00:17:41,101 --> 00:17:43,812
I didn't realize it was something
that you could get paid to do,
285
00:17:43,896 --> 00:17:45,898
but I knew that
I loved it from the beginning.
286
00:17:45,981 --> 00:17:48,692
♪ I gotta love ♪
287
00:17:50,319 --> 00:17:51,570
[Gabriel Held] Starting in the early '90s,
288
00:17:51,653 --> 00:17:55,908
it was actually a real turning point
in the way that fashion
289
00:17:55,991 --> 00:17:57,910
was utilized in the world of hip-hop.
290
00:18:00,871 --> 00:18:03,082
[Valdes] We saw a lot of this stuff
happening in the streets.
291
00:18:03,832 --> 00:18:07,252
But the big fashion brands ignored hip-hop
for a really long time.
292
00:18:07,336 --> 00:18:10,172
They were just not interested.
293
00:18:10,255 --> 00:18:15,427
You had some brands actually trying
to actively discourage people,
294
00:18:15,511 --> 00:18:19,139
particularly in the hip-hop community
and so on, from wearing their brands.
295
00:18:21,517 --> 00:18:23,477
[Smith] When I first got
the Vibe magazine,
296
00:18:23,560 --> 00:18:27,481
I worked with this incredible fashion
director at the time, Emil Wilbekin.
297
00:18:27,564 --> 00:18:28,565
And we would just create magic.
298
00:18:28,649 --> 00:18:31,652
[hip-hop music playing]
299
00:18:35,030 --> 00:18:38,742
We were told by so many people,
including people internally,
300
00:18:38,826 --> 00:18:40,077
that I would never be able to get
301
00:18:40,160 --> 00:18:42,621
the Guccis, and the Pradas,
and the Armanis, and the Diors
302
00:18:42,704 --> 00:18:44,248
to advertise in the magazine
303
00:18:44,331 --> 00:18:48,127
because they just didn't see
the urban consumer as a viable consumer.
304
00:18:50,379 --> 00:18:54,091
I walked into these offices
of these fashion houses,
305
00:18:54,174 --> 00:18:55,342
and they would say
306
00:18:55,425 --> 00:19:00,264
urban fashion was perhaps a trend,
it was something that would go away.
307
00:19:00,347 --> 00:19:03,392
And that's when I started taking over
James Van Der Zee books
308
00:19:04,101 --> 00:19:07,020
to show them that there was
a legacy and a heritage
309
00:19:07,104 --> 00:19:10,149
of Black people being incredibly stylish.
310
00:19:13,819 --> 00:19:16,780
People slowly but surely
began to understand
311
00:19:16,864 --> 00:19:22,035
who we were and that, you know,
we deserved to be spoken to
312
00:19:22,119 --> 00:19:23,912
and to be acknowledged.
313
00:19:23,996 --> 00:19:27,624
That moment in time,
it was the perfect alliance of the stars.
314
00:19:28,750 --> 00:19:32,671
We had MTV playing hip-hop videos.
315
00:19:32,754 --> 00:19:35,924
We had In Living Color,
Fresh Prince of Bel Air.
316
00:19:36,008 --> 00:19:38,886
We had Vibe and Source.
317
00:19:39,845 --> 00:19:42,681
The music industry was at its peak.
318
00:19:43,265 --> 00:19:46,143
Music videos had big budgets.
319
00:19:47,644 --> 00:19:48,562
In the mid-'90s,
320
00:19:48,645 --> 00:19:54,026
we had some of the most expensive
music videos to ever be produced.
321
00:19:58,906 --> 00:20:02,868
The music industry was just
the starting point.
322
00:20:02,951 --> 00:20:05,829
If the record sales are hot,
so are the brands.
323
00:20:05,913 --> 00:20:07,623
There was money to be made.
324
00:20:08,999 --> 00:20:15,214
These new urban brands started learning
the ins and outs of the business.
325
00:20:15,297 --> 00:20:17,716
The trade show at the time to be in
326
00:20:17,799 --> 00:20:20,928
and to show your wares was
Magic International in Las Vegas.
327
00:20:26,350 --> 00:20:28,143
[Walker] I remember the first Magic show.
328
00:20:28,227 --> 00:20:31,647
They said, "We can't put you on the floor
with Calvin Klein and these guys,
329
00:20:31,730 --> 00:20:34,483
because there is no market for you.
What are you?
330
00:20:34,566 --> 00:20:37,402
We can give you that little room
over there, though, you can take that,
331
00:20:37,486 --> 00:20:40,155
with Cross Colours and Karl Kani."
332
00:20:40,781 --> 00:20:45,452
We sent out invites.
It said, "Come serve your sentence,"
333
00:20:45,535 --> 00:20:48,372
and we created a jail cell for the room.
334
00:20:49,998 --> 00:20:53,335
And at that show,
we each rolled like $2 million,
335
00:20:53,919 --> 00:20:56,672
and so what do you think happened
that next show?
336
00:20:56,755 --> 00:20:58,632
We were on the floor.
337
00:21:00,342 --> 00:21:05,305
[Romero] Here come these brands
like Walker Wear, FUBU, Karl Kani,
338
00:21:05,389 --> 00:21:10,936
that have the support of hip-hop artists,
endorsements by artists,
339
00:21:11,019 --> 00:21:13,772
and they were just growing
by leaps and bounds.
340
00:21:15,232 --> 00:21:17,985
[Walker] Our brand
started growing globally,
341
00:21:18,110 --> 00:21:21,989
so we had Japanese distributors,
we were selling in London and Europe.
342
00:21:22,072 --> 00:21:25,867
♪ What's in your mind's eye
This is what you believe you should gain ♪
343
00:21:25,951 --> 00:21:29,454
In the '90s, there was a lot of great
international momentum.
344
00:21:30,872 --> 00:21:36,169
[Stefano Tonchi] Music was the message,
and style came through music.
345
00:21:36,253 --> 00:21:37,713
I spent a lot of time DJing,
346
00:21:37,796 --> 00:21:43,677
and we're talking about
a time when things didn't travel so fast.
347
00:21:43,760 --> 00:21:48,348
I mean,
in order to listen to hip-hop music,
348
00:21:48,432 --> 00:21:50,934
you have to come to New York
and buy the records.
349
00:21:51,018 --> 00:21:53,395
♪ What's the meaning of life? ♪
350
00:21:53,478 --> 00:21:56,481
I remember coming back to Italy
351
00:21:56,565 --> 00:21:59,776
with these big, like, suitcases
full of records.
352
00:21:59,860 --> 00:22:04,448
And then playing the new records,
and you know, trying to scratch.
353
00:22:04,531 --> 00:22:07,743
That was like the big thing to do
if you were a DJ,
354
00:22:07,826 --> 00:22:10,537
and you had the Italian kids
trying to do break dancing.
355
00:22:10,620 --> 00:22:13,165
♪ Feel the feeling
Let your body take control ♪
356
00:22:13,248 --> 00:22:17,044
That's how style could travel.
It traveled through music.
357
00:22:17,127 --> 00:22:19,963
-♪ Well, come on, come on ♪
-♪ Feel the feeling ♪
358
00:22:20,047 --> 00:22:21,923
[Walker] Just thinking
about how that was translating
359
00:22:22,007 --> 00:22:25,052
in every hood around the world,
that was key,
360
00:22:25,135 --> 00:22:27,971
and it really changed the game
for fashion as well,
361
00:22:28,055 --> 00:22:32,267
because artists definitely were
the influencers, and still are.
362
00:22:32,350 --> 00:22:34,311
["I'm Goin' Down" playing]
363
00:22:34,394 --> 00:22:36,813
♪ Time on my hands ♪
364
00:22:37,564 --> 00:22:39,775
♪ Since you been away, boy ♪
365
00:22:39,858 --> 00:22:43,528
Each generation has their way
of expressing themselves.
366
00:22:43,612 --> 00:22:46,281
And then our generation,
everyone was like, "Hip-hop style,
367
00:22:46,364 --> 00:22:48,492
my God, this is hot," you know.
368
00:22:48,575 --> 00:22:49,659
♪ Ooh, baby ♪
369
00:22:49,743 --> 00:22:53,497
♪ I'm goin' down ♪
370
00:22:53,580 --> 00:22:57,209
♪ I'm goin' down ♪
371
00:22:57,292 --> 00:23:01,046
♪ 'Cause you ain't around, baby ♪
372
00:23:01,129 --> 00:23:06,802
♪ My whole world's upside down ♪
373
00:23:06,885 --> 00:23:11,139
Mary J. Blige is the first female artist
that I had ever worked with.
374
00:23:12,015 --> 00:23:14,810
She just had this hip-hop style.
375
00:23:14,893 --> 00:23:18,271
She had the door-knocker earrings,
the oversized sweater, the Girbaud jeans,
376
00:23:18,355 --> 00:23:19,314
the Timberland boots.
377
00:23:19,397 --> 00:23:23,151
She was able to bring a hip-hop swagger
to the R&B arena.
378
00:23:27,072 --> 00:23:30,367
-[Blige] Yeah, look at that. Yeah.
-I love that. It's cute.
379
00:23:30,450 --> 00:23:33,912
Misa's just really courageous,
and really ahead.
380
00:23:35,080 --> 00:23:37,791
-I can see you thinking everything.
-Everything.
381
00:23:37,874 --> 00:23:40,961
Yeah, remember your coat like this?
382
00:23:41,044 --> 00:23:43,630
The Mongolian,
I was just telling... I was like...
383
00:23:43,713 --> 00:23:44,923
[Blige] I'm a little safe,
384
00:23:45,006 --> 00:23:48,593
so a lot of things I wouldn't do,
she gave me the courage to do.
385
00:23:49,553 --> 00:23:53,348
I was a little nervous about feminization,
because I was always dressed like a guy,
386
00:23:53,431 --> 00:23:54,432
because I wanted to be,
387
00:23:54,516 --> 00:23:56,643
because it made me comfortable
in the industry...
388
00:23:56,726 --> 00:23:58,145
full of men that we were in.
389
00:23:59,146 --> 00:24:01,773
I was cool with a baggy Armani suit.
390
00:24:01,857 --> 00:24:05,443
I was cool with my hat turned back,
because I was always a tomboy anyway.
391
00:24:06,278 --> 00:24:10,490
I always used fashion as a armor
even before I was a star.
392
00:24:10,574 --> 00:24:15,996
And that's why I love Misa because she
helped me to be unguarded in that way.
393
00:24:16,079 --> 00:24:17,581
She helped me to trust her in that way.
394
00:24:17,664 --> 00:24:19,124
Because I wouldn't trust anybody.
395
00:24:19,541 --> 00:24:20,917
I mean, I wouldn't trust anybody.
396
00:24:21,042 --> 00:24:22,669
I wouldn't trust Puffy.
397
00:24:22,752 --> 00:24:24,838
I was like,
"No, I'm not wearing those shorts.
398
00:24:24,921 --> 00:24:26,298
No, no, no."
399
00:24:26,756 --> 00:24:31,803
♪ I shoulda have left your ass
A thousand times ♪
400
00:24:31,887 --> 00:24:36,099
What was brilliant to me about what Misa
did is she met Mary where she was.
401
00:24:36,183 --> 00:24:38,101
A hard lip line, for example.
402
00:24:38,435 --> 00:24:42,022
In more elevated beauty practices,
you would smudge that out,
403
00:24:42,105 --> 00:24:43,690
because it would be seen as
404
00:24:43,773 --> 00:24:46,651
a relic back from like hood days,
or chola days.
405
00:24:47,777 --> 00:24:50,322
And Misa was like, "No,
I think we should keep those elements
406
00:24:50,989 --> 00:24:54,034
and then build something
really beautiful around that."
407
00:24:54,117 --> 00:24:57,996
♪ No, I'm not gonna cry
It's not worth the time ♪
408
00:24:58,079 --> 00:25:01,541
♪ 'Cause you're not worth my tears ♪
409
00:25:01,625 --> 00:25:03,668
♪ Well, I'm not gon' cry ♪
410
00:25:03,752 --> 00:25:06,713
♪ I'm not gonna shed no tears
'Cause you lied ♪
411
00:25:06,796 --> 00:25:09,925
[Blige] I was always growing and evolving.
412
00:25:10,008 --> 00:25:14,054
The evolution is just having the courage
to be you, do you,
413
00:25:14,137 --> 00:25:16,014
and that's what I've learned to do.
414
00:25:27,359 --> 00:25:30,320
[Hylton] Lil' Kim was a gift from God.
415
00:25:30,403 --> 00:25:32,906
I really got to stretch my creativity.
416
00:25:34,157 --> 00:25:38,578
She loved to show her sex appeal,
and that was something different.
417
00:25:39,204 --> 00:25:42,207
Lil' Kim came out showing a tit or two
418
00:25:43,041 --> 00:25:47,921
and being like, "My femininity,
and my being female is an asset
419
00:25:48,004 --> 00:25:50,507
as opposed to like a hindrance
to overcome."
420
00:25:51,258 --> 00:25:53,718
[Smith] She looked like
a lady who was reclining
421
00:25:53,802 --> 00:25:57,639
on the chaise lounge in the mansion
from ill-gotten gains.
422
00:25:58,556 --> 00:26:01,184
And I think Misa was the one
423
00:26:01,268 --> 00:26:03,645
who really was able
to facilitate that look.
424
00:26:03,728 --> 00:26:05,897
["Crush on You" playing]
425
00:26:06,106 --> 00:26:09,109
-♪ Undeas ♪
-♪ Uh-huh ♪
426
00:26:09,234 --> 00:26:11,736
♪ Lil Kim, the Queen Bee
So you best take heed ♪
427
00:26:11,820 --> 00:26:13,571
♪ Shall I proceed? ♪
428
00:26:13,655 --> 00:26:14,739
[Held] "Crush on You."
429
00:26:14,823 --> 00:26:19,119
I mean, it was just wild at the time to do
monochromatic hair, clothes, jewelry.
430
00:26:19,911 --> 00:26:23,957
[Hylton] There were people that were like,
"Colored hair to match your mink coats?
431
00:26:24,040 --> 00:26:26,918
Are you kidding me?
That looks like a clown."
432
00:26:27,752 --> 00:26:31,298
Back at that time that had
never been done before in that way.
433
00:26:31,381 --> 00:26:34,843
And I caught a little resistance,
but I fought for my idea.
434
00:26:34,926 --> 00:26:36,386
♪ Just keep this on the hush ♪
435
00:26:36,469 --> 00:26:38,638
When the world got to see it,
436
00:26:38,722 --> 00:26:40,682
it was like the horse was out the stable,
that's it.
437
00:26:40,765 --> 00:26:45,186
And that was the moment
that both of our careers changed forever.
438
00:26:45,979 --> 00:26:48,481
Our phones were ringing off the hook.
439
00:26:48,565 --> 00:26:53,820
Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, we were front row
at every major fashion show.
440
00:26:53,903 --> 00:26:57,615
MAC wanted Lil' Kim to be in their ad.
441
00:26:58,408 --> 00:27:00,827
We changed
what the female rapper looked like.
442
00:27:01,369 --> 00:27:02,912
♪ Hey, Mami ♪
443
00:27:02,996 --> 00:27:05,040
[crowd cheering]
444
00:27:05,123 --> 00:27:09,210
Misa created that purple pasty look
445
00:27:09,294 --> 00:27:12,505
from the MTV Video Awards in 1999.
446
00:27:13,548 --> 00:27:16,426
Just a really fabulous
little doily almost.
447
00:27:16,509 --> 00:27:18,970
People keep calling that a pasty,
but it looked more like a doily,
448
00:27:19,054 --> 00:27:24,100
something like that would be on your
grandmother's curio cabinet or something.
449
00:27:24,184 --> 00:27:26,269
♪ You sexy
Hey, Mami, you're cute ♪
450
00:27:26,353 --> 00:27:30,565
That look is iconic.
It has been replicated by everyone.
451
00:27:30,648 --> 00:27:32,817
♪ Cute ♪
452
00:27:38,907 --> 00:27:42,285
Stylists are often
these behind-the-scenes people
453
00:27:42,369 --> 00:27:43,536
that the world doesn't know,
454
00:27:43,620 --> 00:27:49,084
but they are really shaping what fashion
and the culture looks like moving forward.
455
00:27:53,338 --> 00:27:56,716
[Jean-Raymond] A great stylist is
a true image architect.
456
00:27:57,717 --> 00:27:59,636
So much of our story is in what we wear.
457
00:27:59,719 --> 00:28:02,389
It can identify your happiness
or your pain.
458
00:28:02,472 --> 00:28:06,893
If I can help to tell your story
a little better, then I'm doing my job.
459
00:28:07,685 --> 00:28:10,021
For as long as I remember
I always wanted to be a designer.
460
00:28:11,022 --> 00:28:13,775
My apartment was covered
wall to wall with sketches,
461
00:28:13,858 --> 00:28:16,736
and I finally came up with these
are the pieces that I want to make.
462
00:28:17,529 --> 00:28:20,907
And I gave
one of the camouflage leather jackets
463
00:28:20,990 --> 00:28:22,909
that I made to a friend of mine,
464
00:28:22,992 --> 00:28:25,620
and he gave it to a friend of his,
465
00:28:25,703 --> 00:28:29,124
and that friend of his gave it
to his client, which was Rihanna.
466
00:28:31,209 --> 00:28:34,212
We went viral,
and I had no business in place.
467
00:28:34,295 --> 00:28:36,172
I had no name for the company.
468
00:28:36,256 --> 00:28:37,924
I put up the website that day,
469
00:28:38,007 --> 00:28:41,803
and that was how Pyer Moss was born,
it was kind of born by accident.
470
00:28:45,598 --> 00:28:48,852
There's always a underlying
hip-hop element to everything that I do
471
00:28:48,935 --> 00:28:50,103
because that's who I am.
472
00:28:50,895 --> 00:28:53,064
My first, uh, stylist was Jay-Z.
473
00:28:53,148 --> 00:28:56,067
There's Jay-Z telling us
to wear button-ups and not jerseys,
474
00:28:56,151 --> 00:28:58,987
and me walking around with
a XXL button-up with a French cuff,
475
00:28:59,487 --> 00:29:01,448
and Biggie wearing Coogi
and all that stuff,
476
00:29:01,531 --> 00:29:03,575
that's who I looked up to.
477
00:29:03,658 --> 00:29:04,659
[Biggie rapping]
478
00:29:04,743 --> 00:29:06,077
♪ Competition ripper ever since 13 ♪
479
00:29:06,161 --> 00:29:08,496
♪ Used to steal clothes
I was considered a thief ♪
480
00:29:08,580 --> 00:29:11,124
♪ Until I started hustlin'
On Fulton Street ♪
481
00:29:11,207 --> 00:29:12,667
B.I.G. was one of the fashion icons
482
00:29:12,751 --> 00:29:16,588
that showed you how you can
definitely go from ashy to classy.
483
00:29:16,671 --> 00:29:18,923
♪ I put hoes in NY onto DKNY ♪
484
00:29:19,007 --> 00:29:21,426
-♪ Miami, DC prefer Versace ♪
-♪ That's right ♪
485
00:29:21,509 --> 00:29:23,136
♪ All Philly hoes go with Moschino ♪
486
00:29:23,219 --> 00:29:25,472
[Valdes] Biggie, you know,
a lot of lyrics about Versace.
487
00:29:25,555 --> 00:29:29,601
He could not even fit into those clothes,
but he loved Versace, right?
488
00:29:29,684 --> 00:29:33,188
You know, they didn't have big and tall
like that for these high-end brands.
489
00:29:33,271 --> 00:29:36,649
So, the stylists would find these fabrics,
490
00:29:36,733 --> 00:29:39,652
and they would basically
make everything custom for B.I.G.
491
00:29:39,736 --> 00:29:42,697
That's what came about from Dapper Dan.
492
00:29:42,781 --> 00:29:44,616
♪ At last, a nigga rappin'
About blunts and broads ♪
493
00:29:44,699 --> 00:29:49,245
Dapper Dan was making clothing,
using these different monogrammed prints
494
00:29:49,329 --> 00:29:50,371
that did not belong to him.
495
00:29:50,997 --> 00:29:54,042
And so, he was shut down
for copyright infringement.
496
00:29:55,418 --> 00:29:58,379
You know what triggered it?
Mike Tyson having the fight in the store.
497
00:29:59,422 --> 00:30:02,091
[reporter] While last night's fight
didn't make Tyson any money,
498
00:30:02,175 --> 00:30:04,427
it might have cost him a fortune.
499
00:30:04,511 --> 00:30:07,013
But a number of nagging questions
won't go away.
500
00:30:07,847 --> 00:30:12,227
Why was the World Heavyweight Champion
shopping in Harlem for a leather jacket
501
00:30:12,310 --> 00:30:15,605
ironically embroidered with the phrase,
"Don't believe the hype,"
502
00:30:15,688 --> 00:30:17,649
at four o'clock in the morning?
503
00:30:18,817 --> 00:30:21,110
All of a sudden it was like,
"Wait a minute,
504
00:30:21,194 --> 00:30:23,446
Dapper Dan's, what's going on here?"
505
00:30:23,530 --> 00:30:27,325
And then it culminated
in the most famous raid of all time.
506
00:30:27,408 --> 00:30:30,995
The most famous fashion raid of all time.
507
00:30:32,372 --> 00:30:38,461
Sotomayor, who was the lawyer for Fendi,
came and raided the store, personally.
508
00:30:38,545 --> 00:30:42,632
Sotomayor, before she was Supreme Justice,
she came to the store.
509
00:30:44,008 --> 00:30:46,594
I had a black leather coat.
510
00:30:48,054 --> 00:30:53,101
She looked at it that coat, she say,
"Wow, this guy really belongs downtown."
511
00:30:53,184 --> 00:30:55,562
I appreciate that,
but she took everything with her.
512
00:30:55,645 --> 00:30:58,648
[somber music playing]
513
00:31:04,779 --> 00:31:08,700
Eventually, the raids became so many
to where I had to go underground.
514
00:31:10,243 --> 00:31:13,621
So what I would do is I would hit
every Black city from New York City,
515
00:31:13,705 --> 00:31:17,000
going west to Chicago,
and then I come back,
516
00:31:17,083 --> 00:31:20,378
hit every Black city
from New York City to Atlanta.
517
00:31:22,755 --> 00:31:25,091
When I got there,
I knew all the major gangsters,
518
00:31:25,174 --> 00:31:26,467
because they used to come to the store,
519
00:31:26,551 --> 00:31:28,845
and that's how I sustained the business
while I was underground.
520
00:31:31,598 --> 00:31:34,392
I think I taught
the luxury brands as well.
521
00:31:35,393 --> 00:31:37,312
You know, because it just kept spreading.
522
00:31:40,523 --> 00:31:42,025
[Held] In the late '90s,
523
00:31:42,108 --> 00:31:44,903
this interesting relationship began
524
00:31:44,986 --> 00:31:47,530
where the designers were actually
being inspired
525
00:31:47,614 --> 00:31:52,410
by the subversion and reinterpretation
of their work into this urban context.
526
00:31:53,328 --> 00:31:57,206
[woman] In New York, Charlotte Neuville
hits home with homeboy chic.
527
00:31:59,417 --> 00:32:04,547
And in Paris, Chanel accessories
are piled on for rappin' street style.
528
00:32:05,506 --> 00:32:10,887
All of a sudden, all the big magazines
from GQ, to Vogue, to W, to Details,
529
00:32:10,970 --> 00:32:14,307
they were the purveyors of style,
and what everyone looked to.
530
00:32:14,390 --> 00:32:15,934
They all looked to us.
531
00:32:16,017 --> 00:32:20,229
They recognized the power of,
I guess, you can say,
532
00:32:20,313 --> 00:32:21,648
the tanning of America,
533
00:32:21,731 --> 00:32:26,152
the effect of what we were bringing in,
it driving their sales.
534
00:32:26,235 --> 00:32:29,781
It was the beginning of the end. [laughs]
535
00:32:38,957 --> 00:32:43,503
We create culture but don't participate
in the longevity of it
536
00:32:43,586 --> 00:32:45,463
in terms of the business part of it.
537
00:32:47,048 --> 00:32:51,260
It's funny,
I think at the height of Walker Wear...
538
00:32:51,344 --> 00:32:52,303
[sighs]
539
00:32:52,387 --> 00:32:54,389
...everyone was congratulating me,
540
00:32:56,307 --> 00:33:02,563
and I felt so empty inside,
because there was so little creativity.
541
00:33:02,689 --> 00:33:05,316
It was really hard to see
542
00:33:05,400 --> 00:33:09,320
if you covered up five jean jacket logos,
whose was who.
543
00:33:09,404 --> 00:33:11,531
Because it was all about a markup.
544
00:33:11,614 --> 00:33:14,033
What would make the most money that fast?
545
00:33:14,200 --> 00:33:16,244
And so slowly and gradually,
546
00:33:16,411 --> 00:33:19,163
that thread kept unraveling for me,
547
00:33:19,247 --> 00:33:21,040
and I remember going one day
548
00:33:21,124 --> 00:33:23,543
and just being like, "I'm out, I'm out."
549
00:33:32,677 --> 00:33:34,262
[reporter] It's called file-sharing,
550
00:33:34,429 --> 00:33:37,223
thousands of sites offering free music
551
00:33:37,306 --> 00:33:40,184
are rattling the multi-billion dollar
recording industry.
552
00:33:40,351 --> 00:33:43,813
The record companies say
they will lose billions in sales
553
00:33:43,896 --> 00:33:47,191
because fans are getting
their music for free.
554
00:33:47,358 --> 00:33:52,113
[Romero] This unfettered access
to music threw everything into chaos.
555
00:33:52,196 --> 00:33:54,532
The money left the music industry.
556
00:33:54,615 --> 00:33:59,579
We didn't have these major
multi-million-dollar fashion budgets
557
00:33:59,662 --> 00:34:02,457
for these elaborate videos anymore.
558
00:34:05,043 --> 00:34:09,047
The music industry as we once knew it
559
00:34:09,130 --> 00:34:11,090
was no longer in existence.
560
00:34:22,894 --> 00:34:25,104
[Hylton] That was a tough time
in my career.
561
00:34:26,105 --> 00:34:27,315
The artists that I styled,
562
00:34:27,398 --> 00:34:29,817
when they blew up,
and they got to a certain point,
563
00:34:29,901 --> 00:34:32,570
you know, Vogue wanted them,
and Harper's Bazaar,
564
00:34:32,653 --> 00:34:34,697
and all the high-end magazines,
565
00:34:34,781 --> 00:34:38,284
they wanted to bring in another stylist
to execute my look.
566
00:34:42,080 --> 00:34:45,500
There were moments that my clients
would insist that I be there,
567
00:34:45,583 --> 00:34:49,045
so there were times I could be on set,
and sometimes collaborate.
568
00:34:49,170 --> 00:34:52,465
But over time,
some of my opportunities went away.
569
00:34:53,299 --> 00:34:54,717
Hi, Naomi.
570
00:34:57,345 --> 00:34:58,930
I was paying employees,
571
00:34:59,013 --> 00:35:01,307
those insurances, those taxes,
572
00:35:01,390 --> 00:35:03,518
and then I had two children in college.
573
00:35:04,435 --> 00:35:07,271
The bills were coming,
the money wasn't coming in.
574
00:35:07,480 --> 00:35:10,024
I didn't understand
how to use money as a tool,
575
00:35:10,149 --> 00:35:14,278
and so... I spread myself too thin.
576
00:35:14,904 --> 00:35:18,324
I could not keep afloat
without making some sacrifices.
577
00:35:19,158 --> 00:35:21,744
I realized that I had to make a choice.
578
00:35:22,662 --> 00:35:26,624
Keeping my business afloat,
or letting my place go.
579
00:35:29,252 --> 00:35:32,130
My sacrifice was to give up my home.
580
00:35:37,385 --> 00:35:41,139
I would spend a lot of time in my car,
I would sleep in my car,
581
00:35:41,222 --> 00:35:43,724
I would stay at the train station
by the water,
582
00:35:43,808 --> 00:35:46,644
because water is like
one of my favorite places to be.
583
00:35:47,061 --> 00:35:49,647
It was my peace, it was my sanctuary.
584
00:35:52,984 --> 00:35:56,237
I don't know if I would want to go through
something like that again.
585
00:35:58,739 --> 00:36:02,368
But being in that place allowed me
to see the world differently.
586
00:36:02,451 --> 00:36:04,829
[train horn blaring]
587
00:36:10,334 --> 00:36:12,587
[Jean-Raymond]
When American fashion is spoken about,
588
00:36:12,670 --> 00:36:14,714
Misa Hylton is left out
of the conversation.
589
00:36:16,549 --> 00:36:20,261
It's unfortunate that Misa wasn't
styling shows back then,
590
00:36:20,344 --> 00:36:23,848
and doing Vogue editorials,
and things like that.
591
00:36:24,682 --> 00:36:29,020
It's partially because of the industry
that she was working in,
592
00:36:29,270 --> 00:36:30,897
it's partially race.
593
00:36:32,481 --> 00:36:35,401
At Pyer Moss,
I didn't really want anyone knowing
594
00:36:35,484 --> 00:36:38,154
that I was Black.
Like, the first year or so I hid my face.
595
00:36:38,237 --> 00:36:40,239
I didn't do interviews.
596
00:36:40,323 --> 00:36:42,992
And then in the summer of 2015,
597
00:36:43,075 --> 00:36:44,285
a shift happened for me.
598
00:36:44,368 --> 00:36:47,163
I went from just trying to sell clothes
599
00:36:47,246 --> 00:36:52,084
to now being in the shitstorm
of this news cycle
600
00:36:52,210 --> 00:36:55,796
as it pertained to Mike Brown
and Trayvon Martin.
601
00:36:55,880 --> 00:36:58,716
You know, Nina Simone always says, like...
Has always said that
602
00:36:58,799 --> 00:37:02,011
if your art doesn't reflect the times,
then what's the point, right?
603
00:37:03,221 --> 00:37:05,389
Our SS16 collection,
604
00:37:05,473 --> 00:37:06,891
which was
the "Black Lives Matter" collection,
605
00:37:06,974 --> 00:37:10,770
we showed that collection
to the stores in June,
606
00:37:10,937 --> 00:37:12,438
and that was probably like
607
00:37:12,521 --> 00:37:14,273
our best-selling collection
still to this day.
608
00:37:15,858 --> 00:37:18,819
We got a sponsorship
from one of these makeup brands.
609
00:37:19,820 --> 00:37:23,824
I used all of it
to self-produce this documentary.
610
00:37:23,950 --> 00:37:26,702
Today would have been 28 years
from my mom...
611
00:37:26,827 --> 00:37:29,956
[Jean-Raymond] We went to different
family members of victims' houses,
612
00:37:30,748 --> 00:37:32,291
like Eric Garner's family,
613
00:37:32,500 --> 00:37:34,502
to put these people
in this conversation of
614
00:37:35,086 --> 00:37:37,380
what it means
to have empathy for Black people.
615
00:37:38,130 --> 00:37:39,507
[static]
616
00:37:42,843 --> 00:37:45,972
We showed that ahead of the runway,
617
00:37:46,055 --> 00:37:47,640
so all these people came out
618
00:37:47,723 --> 00:37:49,934
under the guise that they were going
to see this collection,
619
00:37:50,017 --> 00:37:52,895
and I essentially kidnapped them,
620
00:37:52,979 --> 00:37:56,565
and forced them
to watch these brutal videos.
621
00:37:58,317 --> 00:37:59,944
All the models were dressed
in, like, blank canvas.
622
00:38:00,903 --> 00:38:02,571
I had Gregory Siff come out
623
00:38:02,738 --> 00:38:06,117
and paint on these models,
and like "Breathe, breathe, breathe."
624
00:38:06,242 --> 00:38:07,243
Writing the names
625
00:38:07,326 --> 00:38:09,078
of police brutality victims
on these boots,
626
00:38:09,161 --> 00:38:12,039
and, like, spray-painting red paint
to make it look like blood.
627
00:38:14,542 --> 00:38:16,460
And all those orders got canceled.
628
00:38:18,045 --> 00:38:20,047
I lost four of my major accounts.
629
00:38:20,673 --> 00:38:22,842
I think we lost, like, 70%.
630
00:38:22,967 --> 00:38:25,678
I definitely lost
like high six figures after that show,
631
00:38:25,845 --> 00:38:28,222
and what was going through my head was,
632
00:38:29,056 --> 00:38:31,183
"I just committed career suicide."
633
00:38:47,575 --> 00:38:51,287
[Holman] We as Black people
need to find our voice and our place.
634
00:38:51,412 --> 00:38:54,457
Looking towards the future
in a technological way,
635
00:38:55,166 --> 00:38:56,709
that's where our true freedom,
636
00:38:56,792 --> 00:38:59,378
our true ability
to express ourselves will exist.
637
00:39:01,130 --> 00:39:02,631
And that's what's going on today.
638
00:39:03,132 --> 00:39:06,510
[Romero] With the advent of social media,
the game changed.
639
00:39:06,594 --> 00:39:09,221
Technology became empowering.
640
00:39:15,311 --> 00:39:20,900
Social media has been so deeply important,
I think, to the world at large,
641
00:39:20,983 --> 00:39:23,319
and specifically to Black people.
642
00:39:23,402 --> 00:39:26,030
I think it's given us a great expansion
643
00:39:26,113 --> 00:39:28,532
of the ways in which
we could exist and be powerful.
644
00:39:28,699 --> 00:39:30,618
[camera shutter clicking]
645
00:39:30,701 --> 00:39:33,454
[Sulmers] I don't think I would've
been able to have a career in fashion
646
00:39:33,537 --> 00:39:36,374
if not for the digital revolution.
647
00:39:37,458 --> 00:39:40,252
I tried to work at Vogue,
648
00:39:40,336 --> 00:39:42,546
I sent my resume over there so many times,
649
00:39:42,630 --> 00:39:45,257
and heard "no" more times
than I could count.
650
00:39:45,341 --> 00:39:48,636
And, because I started a website,
651
00:39:48,719 --> 00:39:50,429
I've been able to be successful.
652
00:39:52,723 --> 00:39:55,601
And that's the beauty of this digital era.
653
00:39:56,102 --> 00:39:59,605
Outsiders of fashion can now create
their own movement.
654
00:40:02,274 --> 00:40:04,276
[camera shutter clicking]
655
00:40:06,529 --> 00:40:08,823
[Walker] We're moving so far
in the future so fast,
656
00:40:08,906 --> 00:40:11,117
we're a lot more advanced
than when I started.
657
00:40:11,534 --> 00:40:14,995
Now being able to go
straight directly to consumer,
658
00:40:15,079 --> 00:40:16,455
that's exciting to me.
659
00:40:18,958 --> 00:40:22,461
I decided to pick
Walker Wear back up off the shelf.
660
00:40:22,545 --> 00:40:23,921
It just made sense.
661
00:40:25,214 --> 00:40:27,967
The relaunch of Walker Wear,
a lot of it just came
662
00:40:28,050 --> 00:40:30,594
from just thinking about
how can I tell our history?
663
00:40:31,679 --> 00:40:34,348
The new generation needs to know
our history.
664
00:40:36,100 --> 00:40:37,977
So I'm showing it through product,
665
00:40:38,060 --> 00:40:39,437
telling our stories,
666
00:40:39,603 --> 00:40:41,522
picking up the bullhorn with social media.
667
00:40:43,023 --> 00:40:45,317
[audience applauding]
668
00:40:45,401 --> 00:40:49,280
And I can go around the world,
storytell, show dope product,
669
00:40:49,363 --> 00:40:51,240
collaborate with the best of the best
670
00:40:51,323 --> 00:40:56,412
in India, in Europe, Japan,
home in Brooklyn.
671
00:40:56,495 --> 00:41:00,541
That's so inspiring, exciting,
and I just want to keep doing that.
672
00:41:08,757 --> 00:41:10,176
[Kingori] On a global level,
673
00:41:10,259 --> 00:41:13,429
hip-hop and fashion is really interesting.
674
00:41:13,512 --> 00:41:16,140
If you look at Korea, for example,
675
00:41:16,223 --> 00:41:17,224
Korean street style,
676
00:41:17,391 --> 00:41:19,643
I think it's the best street style
in the world,
677
00:41:19,727 --> 00:41:21,353
because people are really out there
678
00:41:21,437 --> 00:41:24,982
to show their personality through clothes.
679
00:41:27,568 --> 00:41:30,362
Fashion can be unique to one culture,
680
00:41:30,446 --> 00:41:33,157
but at the same time
it can be trans-cultural.
681
00:41:33,240 --> 00:41:36,160
Not geographically bound in any way,
682
00:41:36,243 --> 00:41:38,496
especially in the digital age.
683
00:41:38,579 --> 00:41:40,164
Particularly for Seoul,
684
00:41:40,247 --> 00:41:43,542
being a city that's probably
the most connected in the world,
685
00:41:43,626 --> 00:41:45,544
99% Internet connected,
686
00:41:45,628 --> 00:41:47,963
everything is instantaneous,
687
00:41:48,047 --> 00:41:50,841
and so youth are constantly consuming
688
00:41:50,925 --> 00:41:54,303
culture from outside,
from inside, and then sharing it.
689
00:41:54,386 --> 00:41:57,640
[Yoonmirae rapping]
690
00:41:57,890 --> 00:41:59,517
♪ When the world keeps spinning
Like a windmill ♪
691
00:41:59,600 --> 00:42:01,393
♪ Whatever happen, keep it colder
Than a windchill ♪
692
00:42:01,560 --> 00:42:04,104
♪ Until then, just go, we gon' win still ♪
693
00:42:04,355 --> 00:42:07,358
[Yoonmirae] I used to focus more
on Korean rhymes
694
00:42:07,441 --> 00:42:09,318
because I'm, you know, based in Korea,
695
00:42:09,401 --> 00:42:14,198
but I think as the Internet
started to get so big,
696
00:42:14,281 --> 00:42:16,075
the world basically shrank,
697
00:42:16,158 --> 00:42:20,746
so now people can
just find you on the Internet.
698
00:42:20,996 --> 00:42:23,082
♪ I'm confident but not boastful ♪
699
00:42:23,165 --> 00:42:24,625
♪ Bilingual bicoastal ♪
700
00:42:24,708 --> 00:42:26,418
♪ Soul food in Seoul, Korea ♪
701
00:42:26,544 --> 00:42:28,337
♪ While playing music that's soulful ♪
702
00:42:28,546 --> 00:42:30,214
♪ New York, I'm in SoHo ♪
703
00:42:30,297 --> 00:42:32,132
♪ Melrose, I'm on the West Coast ♪
704
00:42:32,216 --> 00:42:33,968
♪ Say a toast with my day ones ♪
705
00:42:34,051 --> 00:42:36,512
[Fischer]
Kids that grew up with the Internet,
706
00:42:36,679 --> 00:42:39,932
that grew up having
the entire human knowledge base
707
00:42:40,015 --> 00:42:41,433
inside their pockets.
708
00:42:41,600 --> 00:42:44,687
Having all this information
readily available
709
00:42:44,812 --> 00:42:46,438
just gives them
a very different point of view.
710
00:42:48,148 --> 00:42:50,776
You can go to some little town
711
00:42:50,859 --> 00:42:52,695
and the kid is probably wearing
the same thing
712
00:42:52,778 --> 00:42:54,697
than the cool kid in New York City,
713
00:42:54,780 --> 00:42:57,533
you know, because
they have the same access to information.
714
00:42:57,700 --> 00:42:59,577
I don't think
that's ever been the case before.
715
00:43:01,912 --> 00:43:05,457
[Held] As Black American culture
becomes high fashion,
716
00:43:05,541 --> 00:43:11,338
eventually it gets reinterpreted into,
like, the suburban white kid context.
717
00:43:12,256 --> 00:43:16,218
And then I think
it's a very important conversation to have
718
00:43:16,302 --> 00:43:19,179
about appreciation versus appropriation.
719
00:43:19,305 --> 00:43:21,849
♪ Come to your river ♪
720
00:43:22,057 --> 00:43:24,602
♪ I will come to your river ♪
721
00:43:24,685 --> 00:43:28,314
♪ I will come to your river ♪
722
00:43:31,692 --> 00:43:34,612
♪ Come to your river
Wash my soul ♪
723
00:43:34,778 --> 00:43:37,698
♪ I will come to your river
Wash my soul ♪
724
00:43:37,823 --> 00:43:40,618
[Sulmers] Gucci's
"Resort 2018" collection,
725
00:43:40,701 --> 00:43:43,746
they sent down a jacket with puff sleeves
726
00:43:43,829 --> 00:43:47,666
that was reminiscent of a design
made by Dapper Dan in the '80s.
727
00:43:50,044 --> 00:43:51,670
Social media caught on to it,
728
00:43:53,297 --> 00:43:56,508
and they started leaving comments
on Gucci's page.
729
00:43:56,634 --> 00:43:59,553
They started writing posts saying
730
00:43:59,637 --> 00:44:04,475
that Gucci copied Dapper Dan's designs
without giving him credit.
731
00:44:04,558 --> 00:44:07,144
It was the "Black Twitter mafia"
732
00:44:07,227 --> 00:44:08,937
that put the word out,
733
00:44:09,021 --> 00:44:12,066
and made it clear
that if y'all are gonna do this,
734
00:44:12,149 --> 00:44:15,319
y'all need to pay homage
to who did it first.
735
00:44:17,112 --> 00:44:20,282
And so because of all this online furor,
736
00:44:21,158 --> 00:44:23,535
Gucci relented, and they said,
737
00:44:23,619 --> 00:44:26,664
"Okay, we're going to acknowledge
that we did reference him.
738
00:44:26,747 --> 00:44:29,375
And now,
we're actually going to work together."
739
00:44:38,300 --> 00:44:41,595
All the brands with the logos,
nobody was putting that on clothes.
740
00:44:41,679 --> 00:44:42,846
Now they all do it.
741
00:44:43,055 --> 00:44:45,224
Every brand, not just Gucci, everybody.
742
00:44:46,475 --> 00:44:48,477
And that all comes from Dapper Dan.
743
00:44:52,689 --> 00:44:54,149
-[Dapper Dan] Whoa!
-[Hylton] Hey, Dap.
744
00:44:54,233 --> 00:44:57,486
-What's up, princess? Look at you.
-How are you?
745
00:44:57,569 --> 00:45:00,906
-It's so good to see you.
-Man, look at you, look at you.
746
00:45:00,989 --> 00:45:02,866
Look at you. [laughs]
747
00:45:02,950 --> 00:45:05,285
-This place is beautiful.
-Yeah, have a seat.
748
00:45:05,369 --> 00:45:07,037
-Look at this.
-I love that.
749
00:45:07,121 --> 00:45:09,164
-Wow.
-Yeah.
750
00:45:09,248 --> 00:45:11,125
-I love it here.
-Man.
751
00:45:11,208 --> 00:45:13,335
How does this feel?
That's what I want to know.
752
00:45:13,419 --> 00:45:15,337
-This is like...
-I didn't believe it.
753
00:45:15,421 --> 00:45:16,630
[laughs]
754
00:45:16,713 --> 00:45:19,842
How did it feel? I did not believe it,
man, this was like...
755
00:45:19,925 --> 00:45:21,760
Misa, this was like
a "pinch me" situation.
756
00:45:21,844 --> 00:45:23,220
Mmm-hmm.
757
00:45:23,303 --> 00:45:25,722
I mean, to come from, like,
the underground...
758
00:45:25,806 --> 00:45:28,851
-Yep.
-...and do it, and then do it like this,
759
00:45:28,934 --> 00:45:32,187
this is... This is exciting.
You know, and you know what?
760
00:45:32,271 --> 00:45:34,189
-I'm glad you wore them colors today.
-Really?
761
00:45:34,273 --> 00:45:35,691
-You know why?
-Why?
762
00:45:35,774 --> 00:45:38,610
Because this remind me
of when you did that video for Puffy.
763
00:45:38,694 --> 00:45:39,987
-Yes. Yeah.
-With the white and black.
764
00:45:40,070 --> 00:45:42,573
Black, you know,
that was Black Rob, right?
765
00:45:42,781 --> 00:45:44,408
♪ Always get stuck for bling bling ♪
766
00:45:44,658 --> 00:45:46,910
♪ I represent "A" block in Sing Sing ♪
767
00:45:47,077 --> 00:45:48,537
[Dapper Dan] Fendi is copying that now.
768
00:45:49,204 --> 00:45:51,039
♪ Moves for paper
Booze, no chaser ♪
769
00:45:51,165 --> 00:45:52,624
I said, "Hold up, man, hold up,
770
00:45:52,708 --> 00:45:54,376
y'all got to give the props out."
771
00:45:54,460 --> 00:45:56,253
-Yeah.
-Don't start this all over again.
772
00:45:56,336 --> 00:45:58,297
[Hylton] Right, all over again.
773
00:45:58,380 --> 00:46:00,090
[both laughing]
774
00:46:00,174 --> 00:46:01,091
You know. I mean, you don’t want
775
00:46:01,175 --> 00:46:02,301
Black Twitter kicking y'all
in the butt, boy.
776
00:46:02,551 --> 00:46:03,760
-Yeah.
-That was Misa's look.
777
00:46:03,969 --> 00:46:06,054
♪ Ain't no way you can take this from me ♪
778
00:46:06,263 --> 00:46:07,222
♪ Ain't...funny ♪
779
00:46:07,431 --> 00:46:08,474
♪ Shake it, honey ♪
780
00:46:09,016 --> 00:46:12,644
[Dapper Dan] You have to understand
how woven you are into my story.
781
00:46:15,189 --> 00:46:18,108
We needed so bad for you to come along.
782
00:46:18,233 --> 00:46:21,403
You know that? You've set the stage
for what's going on now.
783
00:46:21,487 --> 00:46:24,239
And you see all the sisters
on the front covers now?
784
00:46:24,323 --> 00:46:26,492
Imagine, that could
never have happened back then.
785
00:46:26,575 --> 00:46:28,744
I remember when it wasn't that way,
786
00:46:28,827 --> 00:46:30,621
and I remember our conversations,
787
00:46:30,704 --> 00:46:33,874
and just building, and just like that...
[snaps fingers] Everything changed.
788
00:46:33,957 --> 00:46:37,211
Isn't that funny about life?
It's like just like that.
789
00:46:37,336 --> 00:46:38,253
-Yeah. Okay.
-Thank you.
790
00:46:38,337 --> 00:46:40,714
-I love you.
-I love you so much.
791
00:46:58,357 --> 00:46:59,358
[Kingori] You know what's so interesting
792
00:46:59,441 --> 00:47:01,652
with Misa Hylton
and all that she has done,
793
00:47:01,735 --> 00:47:04,821
because I was not aware of her
794
00:47:04,905 --> 00:47:08,575
and all of these amazing accomplishments
until relatively recently.
795
00:47:09,034 --> 00:47:11,161
And that made Vogue say,
796
00:47:11,411 --> 00:47:13,330
"Well, who are the other women
797
00:47:13,455 --> 00:47:17,000
who are relatively hidden
in mainstream culture
798
00:47:17,209 --> 00:47:18,252
who people should know
799
00:47:18,335 --> 00:47:20,921
that they're behind the scenes
making it all magical?"
800
00:47:24,049 --> 00:47:26,385
So we're featuring women
801
00:47:26,552 --> 00:47:28,929
who are running music companies,
802
00:47:29,137 --> 00:47:30,764
producers creating beats,
803
00:47:30,847 --> 00:47:34,101
artists in a space
that's very male-dominated.
804
00:47:36,103 --> 00:47:38,522
I see diversity coming through,
805
00:47:38,605 --> 00:47:39,773
but not quickly enough.
806
00:47:41,817 --> 00:47:45,696
I'm the first woman to be
the publishing director of British Vogue
807
00:47:45,946 --> 00:47:47,364
in over 100 years,
808
00:47:47,447 --> 00:47:49,408
but also at GQ I was the first woman.
809
00:47:49,491 --> 00:47:51,118
I was also the youngest woman,
810
00:47:51,285 --> 00:47:53,370
and, and, and, right?
811
00:47:53,579 --> 00:47:55,998
If I'm the only Black woman,
812
00:47:56,081 --> 00:47:57,833
or woman, or person of color
813
00:47:57,916 --> 00:48:00,794
around a table,
then I feel comfortable there
814
00:48:00,877 --> 00:48:03,422
because I know that I'm making a change.
815
00:48:05,924 --> 00:48:07,467
[Jean-Raymond]
We're living through another Renaissance.
816
00:48:07,634 --> 00:48:09,303
This is another period of enlightenment.
817
00:48:09,511 --> 00:48:12,931
Like Solange, A Seat at the Table.
818
00:48:13,015 --> 00:48:15,809
You have, like, Black Panther.
819
00:48:19,313 --> 00:48:22,274
All of these different things
where we can show that we're beautiful,
820
00:48:22,357 --> 00:48:23,650
and not be apologetic about it.
821
00:48:23,734 --> 00:48:24,943
Wait a minute.
822
00:48:34,828 --> 00:48:36,705
[Kingori] We're in this incredible space
823
00:48:36,788 --> 00:48:41,376
where fashion's embracing things
that used to be deemed ghetto,
824
00:48:41,460 --> 00:48:43,503
and people who used to be deemed ghetto,
825
00:48:43,587 --> 00:48:46,340
as actually being individuals,
826
00:48:46,590 --> 00:48:48,592
as actually being a new kind of rock star.
827
00:48:54,014 --> 00:48:55,974
[Valdes] Especially when it comes
to women,
828
00:48:56,058 --> 00:48:59,311
there seems to be just more confidence.
829
00:48:59,394 --> 00:49:00,979
We have all this power,
830
00:49:01,063 --> 00:49:04,816
and I think a lot of that comes
from just seeing the evolution of hip-hop.
831
00:49:07,861 --> 00:49:10,280
[Morgan] For young women artists now,
832
00:49:10,405 --> 00:49:12,741
they aren't entering into the same space
833
00:49:12,824 --> 00:49:14,910
that Latifah, or MC Lyte,
834
00:49:15,118 --> 00:49:18,080
or even Lil' Kim
or Foxy Brown was entering into.
835
00:49:18,789 --> 00:49:20,290
The space has changed.
836
00:49:20,374 --> 00:49:21,833
♪ What's two plus two? ♪
837
00:49:21,917 --> 00:49:23,502
♪ Four, three, two, oh ♪
838
00:49:23,585 --> 00:49:25,337
Artists are also re-defining
839
00:49:25,420 --> 00:49:28,006
what masculinity in hip-hop can look like.
840
00:49:28,882 --> 00:49:30,634
Young Thug is wearing dresses,
841
00:49:30,717 --> 00:49:33,178
and is unabashed about those dresses.
842
00:49:33,345 --> 00:49:36,515
[Romero] Pharrell takes
a Celine pink coat,
843
00:49:36,682 --> 00:49:38,767
traditionally considered women's.
844
00:49:39,976 --> 00:49:43,105
We're slowly eliminating societal norms
845
00:49:43,188 --> 00:49:46,233
of what's male and what's female fashion,
846
00:49:46,316 --> 00:49:48,485
what's hip-hop and what's designer.
847
00:49:48,568 --> 00:49:53,073
Now we've blurred the lines enough
that, quite frankly, anything goes.
848
00:49:58,412 --> 00:50:01,915
[Morgan] Being non-binary,
not being locked into labels,
849
00:50:02,165 --> 00:50:04,209
that opens up spaces for everybody,
850
00:50:04,292 --> 00:50:05,585
because, you know,
like Black feminists say,
851
00:50:05,669 --> 00:50:07,587
"We get free, everybody's getting free."
852
00:50:21,309 --> 00:50:23,687
[Walker] It's great
that the big corporations
853
00:50:23,895 --> 00:50:27,482
see the power of who we are
in our brilliance.
854
00:50:41,204 --> 00:50:46,209
[Smith] There's so much more of a rainbow
of Black models now.
855
00:50:46,376 --> 00:50:50,046
But I don't know that we're profiting
off of the consumption.
856
00:50:50,130 --> 00:50:53,091
And I don't know
if we're profiting off the creation.
857
00:50:53,175 --> 00:50:55,343
And that's something that disturbs me.
858
00:50:56,386 --> 00:50:59,890
Diversity is not about
showing more Black people,
859
00:50:59,973 --> 00:51:03,351
it's about diversity of perspective.
860
00:51:04,102 --> 00:51:10,358
The next frontier in representation
is about who is making the decision?
861
00:51:10,567 --> 00:51:14,237
We've seen some brands fall foul
in their campaigns.
862
00:51:15,655 --> 00:51:17,949
We need people saying,
863
00:51:18,074 --> 00:51:21,286
"You know what,
that's racism, we can't do that."
864
00:51:22,621 --> 00:51:25,749
I'm happy that we're at a point now
where we no longer tolerate that shit.
865
00:51:38,136 --> 00:51:41,097
[Walker]
If you look at Fashion Week designers,
866
00:51:41,723 --> 00:51:44,768
there's very few people of color,
867
00:51:45,393 --> 00:51:48,271
period, that participate in Fashion Week.
868
00:51:52,400 --> 00:51:54,277
That has to change.
869
00:51:54,361 --> 00:51:58,824
We need more Black designers,
more Latinos,
870
00:51:58,907 --> 00:52:04,162
more Asians, more Indians,
more women participating.
871
00:52:09,042 --> 00:52:11,586
You know, all of our eyes are peeled open
872
00:52:11,795 --> 00:52:14,464
to now a combination of the times,
873
00:52:14,548 --> 00:52:17,801
the awareness, the #MeToo movement,
874
00:52:18,552 --> 00:52:20,053
making sure that women get opportunities,
875
00:52:20,136 --> 00:52:22,180
making sure that women are paid equally,
876
00:52:22,264 --> 00:52:25,100
and making sure that their contributions
are properly credited.
877
00:52:26,184 --> 00:52:29,187
I'm actively looking for female designers.
878
00:52:29,271 --> 00:52:32,315
I'm actively looking for Black designers.
879
00:52:32,399 --> 00:52:34,860
I want to bring them
into everything that I do.
880
00:52:36,278 --> 00:52:38,405
After the infamous
"Black Lives Matter" collection,
881
00:52:38,488 --> 00:52:40,824
luckily I ended up
signing the deal with Reebok,
882
00:52:41,032 --> 00:52:43,326
and was able to keep us afloat.
883
00:52:45,453 --> 00:52:48,623
It's important for me
that this company remains Black-owned,
884
00:52:48,707 --> 00:52:51,626
and family-owned
for as long as humanly possible.
885
00:52:51,793 --> 00:52:52,627
Yeah.
886
00:52:52,711 --> 00:52:55,046
We're not just rewriting
the narrative on the runway,
887
00:52:55,130 --> 00:52:56,506
this stuff that's happening
behind the scenes
888
00:52:56,590 --> 00:52:57,966
is important to
the fabric of society, too.
889
00:52:58,592 --> 00:53:00,218
[choir vocalizing]
890
00:53:15,400 --> 00:53:17,152
[Jean-Raymond] It's important
that we honor the struggles
891
00:53:17,235 --> 00:53:18,612
of people that came before me,
892
00:53:18,695 --> 00:53:21,197
and so the designers who I looked up to,
893
00:53:21,448 --> 00:53:23,325
Karl Kani, Cross Colours,
894
00:53:23,450 --> 00:53:25,160
FUBU, will be in my collection.
895
00:53:25,243 --> 00:53:28,413
My job as someone of relevance now
896
00:53:28,496 --> 00:53:30,665
is to reinclude them
back in the conversation.
897
00:53:31,374 --> 00:53:33,293
I'm bringing them on this train with me,
898
00:53:33,460 --> 00:53:35,003
making sure that they get their just due.
899
00:53:46,765 --> 00:53:49,142
♪ Ah... Get out the way
Get out the way ♪
900
00:53:49,309 --> 00:53:51,227
♪ Get out the way, get out the way
Yeah ♪
901
00:53:51,394 --> 00:53:55,065
♪ Get out the way
Get the fuck up out my way ♪
902
00:53:55,148 --> 00:53:56,191
♪ Yeah ♪
903
00:53:56,274 --> 00:53:58,902
♪ You're either with me or against me ♪
904
00:53:59,069 --> 00:54:00,195
♪ Yeah ♪
905
00:54:00,278 --> 00:54:02,656
♪ You're either with me or against me ♪
906
00:54:02,739 --> 00:54:05,116
♪ When, when, when, when? ♪
907
00:54:05,200 --> 00:54:06,785
♪ Fuck everything, yo ♪
908
00:54:06,952 --> 00:54:08,870
♪ When, when, when, when? ♪
909
00:54:09,037 --> 00:54:10,747
♪ Y'all know that shit ♪
910
00:54:10,830 --> 00:54:13,124
♪ When, when, when, when? ♪
911
00:54:13,208 --> 00:54:14,668
♪ Y'all know that shit ♪
912
00:54:14,751 --> 00:54:16,544
♪ When, when, when, when? ♪
913
00:54:16,628 --> 00:54:18,296
-♪ Yeah ♪
-♪ When? ♪
914
00:54:33,853 --> 00:54:36,356
[Jean-Raymond] I get a kick out of, like,
proving my supporters right.
915
00:54:37,148 --> 00:54:39,025
The infamous
"Black Lives Matter" collection
916
00:54:39,109 --> 00:54:42,654
was, um, requested to be archived
by the Smithsonian.
917
00:54:42,821 --> 00:54:45,490
So I introduce myself as an artist now.
918
00:54:45,573 --> 00:54:47,492
[laughs]
919
00:54:55,917 --> 00:54:58,294
[whirring]
920
00:55:07,971 --> 00:55:11,182
Big Daddy Kane was always known
for the ill trenches,
921
00:55:11,266 --> 00:55:14,519
and he actually had a black MCM trench,
922
00:55:14,602 --> 00:55:16,104
by Dapper Dan.
923
00:55:17,856 --> 00:55:21,401
You know I had made
that Big Daddy Kane motorcycle trench,
924
00:55:21,526 --> 00:55:24,779
by paying homage
to what Dapper Dan did back in the day.
925
00:55:27,699 --> 00:55:31,286
It looked amazing,
Big Daddy Kane loved it,
926
00:55:31,494 --> 00:55:33,913
so I posted a picture on my Instagram,
927
00:55:33,997 --> 00:55:37,208
and then Zerina Akers
had seen the picture,
928
00:55:38,376 --> 00:55:40,086
and Zerina called me.
929
00:55:41,212 --> 00:55:45,008
And she was like, "Oh, my God, I need one
right away for my client."
930
00:55:45,091 --> 00:55:48,053
And I was like,
"Okay, you got it, let's get it done."
931
00:55:48,178 --> 00:55:52,348
And then it turned into
"I need a full MCM suit."
932
00:55:55,935 --> 00:55:57,395
When I think of MCM,
933
00:55:57,479 --> 00:56:01,483
I think of classic hip-hop to the core.
934
00:56:03,902 --> 00:56:06,571
I'm thinking, you know, a bustier,
935
00:56:07,280 --> 00:56:10,116
and then to go with it
I want to do, like, a high-waisted pantie.
936
00:56:11,034 --> 00:56:12,994
It makes it hip-hop,
937
00:56:13,078 --> 00:56:16,164
feminine, sexy,
and gangster at the same time.
938
00:56:17,832 --> 00:56:20,543
I want to incorporate this yellow
939
00:56:20,627 --> 00:56:23,630
with this cognac color.
940
00:56:26,925 --> 00:56:31,554
That piping will sort of peek out,
like this.
941
00:56:33,181 --> 00:56:36,017
There's one thing that I know I'm good at,
942
00:56:36,101 --> 00:56:38,228
and that's taking something
943
00:56:38,311 --> 00:56:41,940
that could be perceived as masculine,
944
00:56:42,023 --> 00:56:44,067
hip-hop, and making it very feminine,
945
00:56:44,275 --> 00:56:46,861
and that's why I wanted to do the bustier.
946
00:56:48,947 --> 00:56:51,032
Now I know who the client is,
947
00:56:51,241 --> 00:56:53,243
but I still don't know
what I'm doing it for,
948
00:56:53,368 --> 00:56:54,953
I just know that they need it ASAP.
949
00:57:00,250 --> 00:57:03,586
["Apeshit" playing]
950
00:57:07,966 --> 00:57:10,510
Who would've ever imagined
the "Apeshit" video?
951
00:57:11,136 --> 00:57:13,221
♪ Stack my money fast and go ♪
952
00:57:13,346 --> 00:57:17,267
The way that she's dressed,
that MCM bodysuit moment
953
00:57:17,392 --> 00:57:18,768
is really a moment.
954
00:57:18,852 --> 00:57:22,063
Like, she just gets
these Botticelli curves
955
00:57:22,230 --> 00:57:24,983
draped in this very hard kind of leather.
956
00:57:25,108 --> 00:57:28,653
Just is a completely different imagining,
957
00:57:28,736 --> 00:57:31,698
saying,
"I feel good as a woman in my body,
958
00:57:31,781 --> 00:57:34,993
and I want you to feel good
as a woman in your body, too."
959
00:57:37,078 --> 00:57:41,166
When Black folks are taking over...
[laughs] something
960
00:57:41,249 --> 00:57:43,418
that is so traditionally
961
00:57:43,626 --> 00:57:45,628
super European,
962
00:57:45,753 --> 00:57:48,465
a place where our art doesn't even exist,
963
00:57:48,548 --> 00:57:50,216
is so revolutionary.
964
00:57:50,633 --> 00:57:52,969
It's saying, "This is ours."
965
00:58:19,537 --> 00:58:21,998
Oh, my God.
966
00:58:24,375 --> 00:58:26,294
This is nuts.
967
00:58:26,503 --> 00:58:28,588
My work is in Times Square, this is crazy.
968
00:58:30,131 --> 00:58:32,175
There, there, there.
969
00:58:33,843 --> 00:58:35,136
Yes.
970
00:58:36,679 --> 00:58:38,640
I see my legacy everywhere.
971
00:58:38,890 --> 00:58:40,517
I see it on the runways,
972
00:58:40,600 --> 00:58:42,227
I see it on the streets,
973
00:58:42,310 --> 00:58:44,229
I see it in the magazines.
974
00:58:44,771 --> 00:58:47,440
I see it everywhere. Wow.
975
00:58:48,942 --> 00:58:54,531
And that speaks
to how powerful what I created is.
976
00:58:58,201 --> 00:58:59,536
Thank you, God.
977
00:59:04,290 --> 00:59:05,667
Whoo!
978
00:59:25,603 --> 00:59:27,605
[imperceptible]
979
01:01:23,012 --> 01:01:25,765
♪ Ooh ♪
980
01:01:34,899 --> 01:01:38,653
♪ I see how you
You're running out of fuel ♪
981
01:01:38,736 --> 01:01:40,446
♪ Actin' like a fool, yeah ♪
982
01:01:40,571 --> 01:01:42,907
♪ I see how you ♪
983
01:01:43,032 --> 01:01:46,035
♪ Playin' those games
Sad to say it's Monday ♪
984
01:01:46,285 --> 01:01:48,246
♪ I see how you ♪
985
01:01:48,413 --> 01:01:50,039
♪ You're actin' out of character ♪
986
01:01:50,164 --> 01:01:52,583
♪ Bet your mama's sittin' embarrassed
Dawg ♪
987
01:01:52,667 --> 01:01:56,087
♪ You're revealing you ♪
988
01:01:58,005 --> 01:01:59,716
[car screeching]
989
01:01:59,882 --> 01:02:02,051
♪ Kill another, steal from your brother ♪
990
01:02:02,176 --> 01:02:04,220
♪ Did you really just disobey
Your mother? ♪
991
01:02:04,429 --> 01:02:07,890
♪ Live like a north one, rebellion
Terror in a million ♪
992
01:02:08,057 --> 01:02:10,435
♪ Fare no one plus have guns to spare ♪
993
01:02:10,560 --> 01:02:12,812
♪ But no love to share to be powerful ♪
994
01:02:12,937 --> 01:02:15,565
♪ Or to feel high as though
The mindless handful ♪
995
01:02:15,732 --> 01:02:18,901
♪ The people want to run, run from
I hunt, hunt one ♪
996
01:02:18,985 --> 01:02:22,321
♪ Mr. "Like me a honey
That's quick to supply the proof ♪
997
01:02:22,488 --> 01:02:25,074
♪ Shit at telling lies"
'Cause truth loves the higher me ♪
998
01:02:25,241 --> 01:02:27,869
♪ Quick I write
Thoughts about me in the Far East ♪
999
01:02:27,994 --> 01:02:29,829
♪ Not to say that East play their grief ♪
1000
01:02:29,912 --> 01:02:32,999
♪ Tell me why, why do you
Spend time lying on my name? ♪
1001
01:02:33,124 --> 01:02:35,752
♪ The higher power will reign
Proclaim my slay ♪
1002
01:02:35,877 --> 01:02:38,838
♪ You choose to be an armful
As alarms build ♪
1003
01:02:39,005 --> 01:02:41,174
♪ Your thoughts should
surrender effortlessly ♪
1004
01:02:41,382 --> 01:02:44,427
♪ Can we just please get away
from all this inhumane ♪
1005
01:02:44,510 --> 01:02:47,305
♪ Better yet, blatant destruction
Corruption? ♪
1006
01:02:47,430 --> 01:02:49,932
♪ Plenty weep and suffer
Some just lost a, lost a ♪
1007
01:02:50,057 --> 01:02:51,392
♪ I only love another ♪
1008
01:02:51,517 --> 01:02:54,103
♪ I lift you up
Like them early prayers from your mother ♪
1009
01:02:54,187 --> 01:02:56,063
♪ Before you felt like you knew the way ♪
1010
01:02:56,147 --> 01:02:58,816
♪ Those days when guidance was
Still okay ♪
1011
01:02:58,941 --> 01:03:01,444
♪ Believe me when I say, say, say ♪
1012
01:03:01,569 --> 01:03:03,529
♪ I'm seeing a huge lack of faith ♪
1013
01:03:04,655 --> 01:03:06,073
♪ I'm seeing a huge lack of faith ♪
1014
01:03:08,201 --> 01:03:11,954
♪ I see how you
You're running out of fuel ♪
1015
01:03:12,038 --> 01:03:13,748
♪ Actin' like a fool, yeah ♪
1016
01:03:13,873 --> 01:03:16,209
♪ I see how you ♪
1017
01:03:16,334 --> 01:03:19,504
♪ Playin' those games
Sad to say it's Monday ♪
1018
01:03:19,796 --> 01:03:21,798
♪ I see how you ♪
1019
01:03:21,881 --> 01:03:23,508
♪ You're actin' out of character ♪
1020
01:03:23,591 --> 01:03:26,135
♪ Bet your mama's sittin' embarrassed
Dawg ♪
1021
01:03:26,219 --> 01:03:28,429
♪ You're revealing you ♪
1022
01:03:31,224 --> 01:03:34,268
♪ You know them ones
Don't act like you don't know ♪
1023
01:03:34,393 --> 01:03:36,979
♪ You know yourselves
Stop punchin' below your belt ♪
1024
01:03:37,104 --> 01:03:39,398
♪ You owe yourselves
So come live in good health ♪
1025
01:03:39,482 --> 01:03:42,485
♪ I stopped wasting time
'Cause it's better for the Commonwealth ♪
1026
01:03:42,568 --> 01:03:44,237
♪ But also for my pocket ♪
1027
01:03:44,529 --> 01:03:46,864
♪ You see me slimmin' down
But still packin' in my rag ♪
1028
01:03:46,948 --> 01:03:47,949
♪ Bet you wanna catch a look ♪
1029
01:03:48,032 --> 01:03:48,866
[tires screeching]
1030
01:03:48,950 --> 01:03:49,784
♪ And now I've got to slow it down ♪
1031
01:03:49,909 --> 01:03:52,537
♪ Keep up with my diary
Many make inquiries ♪
1032
01:03:52,662 --> 01:03:55,164
♪ About this hot popper
You better understand
1033
01:03:55,248 --> 01:03:57,875
♪ 'Cause in my life there's no highest
Bidder other than I ♪
1034
01:03:57,959 --> 01:03:59,168
♪ No gettin' rid of me, I ♪
1035
01:03:59,252 --> 01:04:02,213
♪ No outbids or cheats
For the mic, he pushes for victory ♪
1036
01:04:02,338 --> 01:04:04,340
♪ Literally, are you gonna tell me how? ♪
1037
01:04:04,423 --> 01:04:06,551
♪ How could someone try
To poke my style? ♪
1038
01:04:06,634 --> 01:04:09,762
♪ That's the best of me, won't
Choke on my energy, the remedy, no ♪
1039
01:04:09,971 --> 01:04:12,557
♪ Also let me know
Who can tamper with this heat ♪
1040
01:04:12,682 --> 01:04:16,227
♪ Just assume your curiosity
It's impossible to level with me ♪
1041
01:04:16,435 --> 01:04:19,355
♪ At this degree
Uh, and before you get her to one ♪
1042
01:04:19,438 --> 01:04:21,482
♪ Maybe tell them how you had an affair ♪
1043
01:04:21,649 --> 01:04:25,069
♪ This is not a scandal
This is not your everyday maneuver ♪
1044
01:04:25,152 --> 01:04:28,197
♪ Soul soother is I
Come and get with a new one ♪
1045
01:04:28,447 --> 01:04:31,367
♪ L has break some bread
With the real dah ♪
1046
01:04:32,243 --> 01:04:34,120
♪ Some bread with the real dah ♪
1047
01:04:37,456 --> 01:04:40,084
♪ You better come correct now ♪
1048
01:04:40,334 --> 01:04:42,962
-♪ Now tell me what you're sayin' ♪
-♪ Prayin' ♪
1049
01:04:43,087 --> 01:04:45,923
♪ And things are looking up now ♪
1050
01:04:46,048 --> 01:04:48,301
♪ Foundations start layin' ♪
1051
01:04:48,759 --> 01:04:51,345
♪ So you better come correct now ♪
1052
01:04:51,679 --> 01:04:54,098
♪ Have you started showin' respect now? ♪
1053
01:04:54,390 --> 01:04:57,351
♪ I'll walk with you through it anyway ♪
1054
01:04:57,476 --> 01:04:59,729
♪ So live and find your destiny ♪
1055
01:05:00,187 --> 01:05:03,900
♪ Destinies ♪
1056
01:05:21,751 --> 01:05:23,294
♪ It's your destiny ♪
1057
01:05:59,538 --> 01:06:03,084
♪ Have you heard? Right here ♪
1058
01:06:05,127 --> 01:06:08,673
-♪ Up now, make it count ♪
-♪ Playin' ♪
1059
01:06:10,466 --> 01:06:11,592
♪ Now ♪
1060
01:06:16,514 --> 01:06:18,140
♪ Anyway ♪
1061
01:06:19,809 --> 01:06:21,143
♪ Destiny ♪