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[narrator]
This is a story about clothing.

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It's about the clothes we wear,

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the people who make these clothes,

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and the impact that it's having
on our world.

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It's a story about greed and fear,

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power and poverty.

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It's complex, as it extends
all the way around the world.

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But it's also simple,

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revealing just how connected we are
to the many hearts and hands

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behind our clothes.

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I came into this story
with no background in fashion at all,

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beginning with nothing more
than a few simple questions.

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What I've discovered

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has forever changed the way
I think about the things I wear,

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and my hope is that
it might just do the same for you.

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[interviewer]
Maybe just start and say your name

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and talk about how this kind of began.

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My name is Lucy Siegle.

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I am a journalist and broadcaster
based in the UK,

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and I have been obsessed, consumed

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with the environmental and social impacts
of the fashion industry

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for about a decade.

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[woman]
Well, I love everything about clothes.

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I love the poetry, I love the fabric,
I love the colors, I love the textures,

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I love the way that they make you feel.
You know, they are our chosen skin.

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Well, I had the classic massive closet,

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clothes everywhere,

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bags constantly coming into my house,
you know,

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every day, every other day
with some other item in,

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and never had anything to wear. I could
never put together a coherent outfit.

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[de Castro]
We communicate who we are

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to a certain extent through clothing.

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And this is, this is again,
throughout history.

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You know, you have the trends at court,

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and Marie Antoinette
making these huge hats.

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It's always been our personal
communication in many ways.

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That's what interests me,

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that it is fundamentally a part of what,
um, we wish to communicate

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about ourselves.

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[Siegle] We used to have a system,
a fashion system

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where people would go to the, uh, shows,

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so they would do spring, summer,
autumn, winter,

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and those kind of ran like clockwork
for very many years.

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"Okay, rip that up,
throw it out the window."

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That has absolutely nothing to do
with the fashion industry today.

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It has been re-invented.

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[de Castro]
The shift is moving ruthlessly, um,

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towards a way of producing

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which only really looks after

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big business interest.

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Growing up, I never gave much thought

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to anything other than the price
of the clothes that I bought,

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usually making choices
based on the style or a good deal.

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Looking back,
I learned that for a long time

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most of our clothing was actually
made right here in America.

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As recently as the 1960s, we were
still making 95 percent of our clothes.

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Today, we only make about 3 percent

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and the other 97 percent is outsourced

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to developing countries around the world.

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[man] I've been in the business
for over nine years now.

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In terms of scale, we've got 25,000 people
just on garment manufacturing side.

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We produce one in six dress-shirts
sold in the U.S.

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If you actually go to a store

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and you benchmark the price
of a garment over the last 20 years,

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you will find that there's actually
a deflation of the product,

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i.e., the price has gone down over time.

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Now, has our cost gone down?
Absolutely not. Okay?

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Our cost has gone up.

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The more production we've outsourced,

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the cheaper prices have become
on the clothing we buy,

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making way for a whole new model,
known as "Fast Fashion,"

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almost overnight, transforming
the way clothing is bought and sold.

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[woman] The newest H&M store
on 5th Avenue in Manhattan

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is the company's largest ever

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and just one of many new stores
it's planning around the country.

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[man] It's all part
of a high street revolution, Fast Fashion.

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And instead of two seasons a year,
we practically have 52 seasons a year.

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So, we have something new
coming in every week.

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And Fast Fashion has created this,

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so that it can essentially shift
more products.

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[all screaming]

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[crowd]
We love Topshop!

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[man] You can get this fringe
metallic skirt $39 at Joe Fresh,

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a brand-new store in town.

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With price tags that might look
a little bit more appealing to shoppers.

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[man]
American consumers,

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they really have grasped
the fashion part of H&M,

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and we know that American consumers are
very value-oriented.

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If you match these two together,
with fashion and value,

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then you have a recipe.

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[woman]
One Japanese clothing retailer is making

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a fast and furious mark here in the U.S.

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The price has dropped.

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The way of making that product
has completely, completely changed.

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And you have to ask yourself
at some point,

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"Where does it end?"

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The global marketplace is some place

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where we export work to have happen

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in whatever conditions we want,
and then the products come back to me,

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cheap enough to throw away
without thinking about it.

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Globalized production basically means

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that all of the making of goods

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has been outsourced to low-cost economies,

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particularly where wages are very low
and kept low.

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And what that means is that those
at the top of the value chain,

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they get to choose
where the products are being made,

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and they get to switch if, for example,
one factory says,

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"We can't make it that cheap anymore."

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The brand will say,
"We're not gonna come to you.

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We're gonna switch to another place
which is cheaper."

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[man] In the West,
they're using "everyday low price."

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So, every day, they're hampering me,

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and I'm hampering my workers,
this is how it is.

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They're competing.
The stores are competing.

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When the stores are coming to us
for an order and negotiating,

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they're telling, "Look,

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that particular store is selling
this shirt, like, for $5,

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so I need to sell it at $4.

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So you better squeeze your price."
So we are squeezing.

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Then other store is coming and saying,
"Hey, they're selling it at $4?

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So the target price is 3.
If you can make that 3,

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you're getting business,
otherwise you are not getting."

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Because we want that business so badly,

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and we don't have other options, okay.

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Every time we are trying
to survive, actually.

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[Lee]
Ultimately, something's gonna give.

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Either the price
of the product has to go up,

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or manufacturers have to shut down

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or cut corners to make it work.

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[narrator] Cutting corners
and disregarding safety measures

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had become an accepted part
of doing business in this new model,

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until an early morning in April,

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when an event just outside
of Dhaka, Bangladesh

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brought a hidden side of fashion
to front page news.

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State media in Bangladesh say

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an eight-story building has collapsed
near the capital of Dhaka,

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killing more than 70 people.

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[crowd clamoring]
[whistle blowing]

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[wailing in foreign language]

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[woman 1]
Rescue workers are racing against time,

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searching through the rubble,
trying to find

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as many survivors as they can.

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[man 1]
Hundreds are dead,

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hundreds more might still be buried alive,
after officials in Bangladesh say

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factory owners ignored
an order to evacuate.

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[man 2] Some 400 dead,
hundreds still believed to be missing.

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Garment workers in Bangladesh paying
the price for cheap clothing.

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[woman 2] A huge crowd has gathered
near the building site,

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many of them family members looking
for loved ones,

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and they say they can still hear
people screaming

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from underneath the rubble,
crying out for help.

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Many are simply losing hope.

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[speaking in foreign language]

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[clears throat]

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[Siegle]
Anybody who, like me,

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had written about problems
in the supply chain,

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particularly for Fast Fashion,

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and tried to articulate

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how the risk was being carried

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by those who are most vulnerable
and the worst paid.

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You try to articulate that,
but you could never have envisaged

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that there would be such
a catastrophic illustration

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of what you were trying to say.

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And Rana Plaza, to me,
was like some horror story.

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[woman]
Two weeks after the catastrophe

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and the death toll now stands
at a staggering 931,

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making it the worst
garment-industry disaster in history.

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I think one of the most profoundly
impressing things

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about the Rana Plaza disaster
was that news

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that the workers had already
pointed out to the management

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the cracks in the building.

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They'd already pointed out

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that the building was structurally unsafe,

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and yet they'd been forced back in.

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[woman]
Survivors are asking

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how they could've been forced
to return to work

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when management already was aware
of the cracks in the building,

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and workers' concerns
on the very day of the collapse.

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A lot of clothes in American stores
are made in Bangladesh

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by workers who earn about $2 a day.

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Last month there,
a garment factory collapsed,

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killing more than 1,000,

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and a few months before that,
a factory fire killed more than 100.

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[woman] And as bodies are
being pulled out of the rubble,

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another factory in Bangladesh caught fire
early this morning,

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killing eight more people.

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[narrator] As story after story
of disasters kept filling the news,

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it was now the case that three
of the four worst tragedies...

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...in the history of fashion had
all happened in the last year.

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As the death toll rose,
so did the profits generated.

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The year following the disaster
at Rana Plaza was

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the industry's most profitable
of all time.

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The global fashion industry is now

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an almost $3 trillion annual industry.

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[man]
Bangladesh is now the second largest

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apparel exporter, after China.

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How? Well, unlike some
of its competitors,

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Bangladeshi manufacturing remains
dirt cheap,

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and unions have limited power.

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The country cornered the absolute bottom
of the value chain.

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Those 1000 poor girls lost their lives

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because everybody didn't bother,
didn't give a damn shit.

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They just wanted the cheap price
and a good profit.

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It shouldn't be like that.

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Everybody should take
the responsibility for those kids.

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That's how it is.

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There might be more coming.

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Sorry, but you know that it's not only
the price pressure,

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it is something--

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Ignoring other people's lives.

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It's not... It shouldn't...
It's not right.

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It's the 21st century.

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It's a global world we are living in,

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and we just ignore other people's lives?

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How come?

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This enormous, rapacious industry

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that is generating so much profit

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for a handful of people,

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why is it that it is unable

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to support millions
of its workers properly?

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Why is it that it is not able
to guarantee their safety?

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We're talking
about essential human rights.

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Why is it unable to guarantee that

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whilst generating
these tremendous profits?

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Is it because it doesn't work properly?

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That is my question.

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[narrator] Lucy's question sounds
like the obvious one.

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But instead of answering it,
everywhere I looked, I found people

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who were constantly justifying the cost

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because of the economic benefits
being generated.

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So, this low-wage manufacturing,
or so-called "sweatshops,"

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they're not just the least bad option
workers have today,

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they're part of the very process
that raises living standards

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and leads to higher wages
and better working conditions over time.

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Your proximate causes of development
are physical capital, technology

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and human capital
or skills of the workers.

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When sweatshops come to these countries,
they bring all three to these workers

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and start getting that process going.

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Is it possible that sweatshops are
actually good?

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Yes, horrible, awful sweatshops.

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The word itself, "sweatshop,"

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it evokes terrible images
of poor people and children

244
00:14:46,466 --> 00:14:50,220
suffering in third world countries,
slaving away in awful conditions

245
00:14:50,303 --> 00:14:53,181
to make products
for us selfish Americans.

246
00:14:53,264 --> 00:14:54,974
And thank you. What?

247
00:14:55,058 --> 00:14:59,187
Does it bother me that people
are working in a factory,

248
00:14:59,270 --> 00:15:02,857
making clothes for Americans

249
00:15:02,941 --> 00:15:04,943
or for, you know, Europeans?

250
00:15:05,026 --> 00:15:07,904
Or that they're... That's how
they're spending their lives?

251
00:15:08,821 --> 00:15:10,782
Is that what you're kind of asking me?

252
00:15:10,865 --> 00:15:12,659
[interviewer]
Um, yeah, sure.

253
00:15:12,742 --> 00:15:14,202
Um...

254
00:15:14,285 --> 00:15:17,330
No. I mean, you know,
they're doing a job.

255
00:15:17,747 --> 00:15:20,500
Uh, there are a lot worse things
that they can be doing.

256
00:15:20,583 --> 00:15:22,585
It is live television,
and I will ask you:

257
00:15:22,669 --> 00:15:24,087
define sweatshops.

258
00:15:24,170 --> 00:15:27,215
We have to be clear
what we're talking about from the outset.

259
00:15:27,298 --> 00:15:30,301
So, we're talking about places
with very poor working conditions

260
00:15:30,385 --> 00:15:32,720
as us normal Americans
would experience it,

261
00:15:32,804 --> 00:15:36,266
very low wages by our standard,
maybe children working places

262
00:15:36,349 --> 00:15:38,142
that might not obey local labor laws,

263
00:15:38,226 --> 00:15:42,355
but there are characteristics of the ones
I want to talk to you about tonight,

264
00:15:42,438 --> 00:15:45,191
and that's they're places
where people choose to work,

265
00:15:45,275 --> 00:15:47,735
admittedly from a bad set
of other options.

266
00:15:48,194 --> 00:15:51,489
Well, there's nothing intrinsically
dangerous with sewing clothes.

267
00:15:51,573 --> 00:15:53,616
[chuckles] So, we're kind of starting out

268
00:15:53,700 --> 00:15:57,120
with, you know,
a relatively safe industry.

269
00:15:57,203 --> 00:16:00,123
It's not like coal mining,
or natural gas mining,

270
00:16:00,206 --> 00:16:03,668
or a lot of things that you could--
That are much more dangerous.

271
00:16:03,751 --> 00:16:07,881
So, sweatshop jobs look like
horrible working conditions and wages

272
00:16:07,964 --> 00:16:10,341
to anybody in the West
who's wealthy enough

273
00:16:10,425 --> 00:16:12,927
to own a TV and watch your video.

274
00:16:13,011 --> 00:16:15,763
But we have to keep in mind
that the alternatives available

275
00:16:15,847 --> 00:16:18,057
for these workers aren't
our own alternatives,

276
00:16:18,141 --> 00:16:20,435
they're much worse than our alternatives,

277
00:16:20,518 --> 00:16:24,022
and they're usually much worse
than the factory job that the worker has.

278
00:16:24,731 --> 00:16:28,693
Low wages, unsafe conditions,
and factory disasters

279
00:16:28,776 --> 00:16:31,362
are all excused because of
the needed jobs they create

280
00:16:31,446 --> 00:16:33,573
for people with no alternatives.

281
00:16:34,073 --> 00:16:36,117
This story has become the narrative,

282
00:16:36,201 --> 00:16:39,162
used to explain the way
the fashion industry now operates

283
00:16:39,245 --> 00:16:40,955
all over the world.

284
00:16:41,039 --> 00:16:44,042
But there are those who believe
that there must be a better way

285
00:16:44,125 --> 00:16:47,587
of making and selling clothing
that does generate economic growth,

286
00:16:47,670 --> 00:16:50,173
but without taking such an enormous toll.

287
00:16:50,548 --> 00:16:52,759
[woman]
So, we don't know yet, um,

288
00:16:52,842 --> 00:16:54,677
how long this embroidery is taking.

289
00:16:54,761 --> 00:16:57,931
Do you think you could ask Santo
to just roughly...

290
00:16:58,014 --> 00:17:00,600
How long that whole panel is taking?

291
00:17:00,683 --> 00:17:04,479
I guess we'll see it in the FAB breakdown,
but it would be great to know.

292
00:17:04,562 --> 00:17:08,858
So, I'm Safia Minney,
I'm founder and CEO of People Tree,

293
00:17:08,942 --> 00:17:11,611
and, uh, People Tree is
a Fair Trade fashion brand

294
00:17:11,694 --> 00:17:14,364
that started over 20 years ago in Japan.

295
00:17:14,739 --> 00:17:16,741
You were worried we had too much navy.

296
00:17:16,824 --> 00:17:20,119
What are you feeling now?
Because we did put more black in to SS14

297
00:17:20,203 --> 00:17:22,455
and that has worked really, really well

298
00:17:22,539 --> 00:17:26,709
with, um, Orla's designer, um,
collaboration.

299
00:17:26,793 --> 00:17:29,587
Have we got enough black prints
in the collection?

300
00:17:29,671 --> 00:17:34,759
Uh, well, we've lost
that abstract dust print, this one here,

301
00:17:34,843 --> 00:17:37,637
in the black,
but I think this pink, we really---

302
00:17:38,304 --> 00:17:42,392
It's one of those prints that everyone's
nervous of but actually will do well.

303
00:17:43,309 --> 00:17:46,187
[Minney]
I think most fashion brands start

304
00:17:46,271 --> 00:17:49,440
with a concept
of a collection or a look.

305
00:17:49,524 --> 00:17:53,695
Um, they don't tend to think,
uh, you know,

306
00:17:53,778 --> 00:17:56,114
who is gonna make the product?

307
00:17:56,197 --> 00:17:59,242
And how can I ensure
that producers

308
00:17:59,325 --> 00:18:02,495
or suppliers, um, are gonna eat?

309
00:18:02,579 --> 00:18:08,084
So, what we're trying to do at People Tree
is start with the skills that we have

310
00:18:08,168 --> 00:18:11,421
at each producer group,
and then design the collection up,

311
00:18:11,504 --> 00:18:15,675
whilst also looking at the integrity
of the collection in its aesthetic.

312
00:18:16,926 --> 00:18:20,054
I worked originally
with freelance designers

313
00:18:20,138 --> 00:18:24,100
and went into Bangladesh, Zimbabwe,
India, Nepal, the Philippines,

314
00:18:24,184 --> 00:18:27,979
and bit by bit, we put together,
you know, an amazing network

315
00:18:28,062 --> 00:18:31,191
of like-minded Fair Trade organizations

316
00:18:31,274 --> 00:18:33,860
that put women's development,

317
00:18:33,943 --> 00:18:36,529
the workers' social development
and environment

318
00:18:36,613 --> 00:18:39,157
absolutely essential
to everything they do.

319
00:18:44,746 --> 00:18:46,581
[woman]
One, two, three.

320
00:18:46,664 --> 00:18:49,667
[all]
Happy World Fair Trade Day!

321
00:18:49,751 --> 00:18:51,878
[cheering and whistling]

322
00:18:54,005 --> 00:18:56,007
[speaking in Japanese]

323
00:19:29,374 --> 00:19:31,376
[instrumental music playing
over speakers]

324
00:19:47,976 --> 00:19:49,894
[speaks in Japanese]

325
00:19:53,815 --> 00:19:55,191
Thank you.

326
00:19:56,150 --> 00:20:00,363
Good job! It was so...
Really, really great!

327
00:20:00,446 --> 00:20:01,823
Yeah.

328
00:20:04,909 --> 00:20:06,911
[speaking in Japanese]

329
00:20:13,793 --> 00:20:15,587
[speaks in Japanese]

330
00:20:16,546 --> 00:20:17,797
That's beautiful.

331
00:20:17,881 --> 00:20:20,258
Fair Trade is a citizen's response

332
00:20:20,341 --> 00:20:22,343
to correcting the social injustice

333
00:20:22,427 --> 00:20:25,847
in an international trading system
that is largely dysfunctional,

334
00:20:25,930 --> 00:20:29,225
where, uh, workers and farmers

335
00:20:29,309 --> 00:20:31,895
are not paid, um, a living wage,

336
00:20:31,978 --> 00:20:36,900
and where the environment is not
considered to make the products we buy.

337
00:20:45,200 --> 00:20:46,993
[speaks in foreign language]

338
00:20:52,540 --> 00:20:54,542
[speaking in foreign language]

339
00:21:07,055 --> 00:21:10,099
Shima is one of about
40 million garment-factory workers

340
00:21:10,183 --> 00:21:11,184
in the world.

341
00:21:11,267 --> 00:21:14,312
Almost four million of these workers
are here in Bangladesh,

342
00:21:14,395 --> 00:21:16,523
working in almost 5000 factories,

343
00:21:16,606 --> 00:21:19,275
making clothing for major Western brands.

344
00:21:21,361 --> 00:21:23,947
Over 85 percent
of these workers are women.

345
00:21:24,030 --> 00:21:26,783
And with a minimum wage
of less than $3 a day,

346
00:21:26,866 --> 00:21:29,953
they are among the lowest paid
garment workers in the world.

347
00:21:30,036 --> 00:21:32,455
[Akhter speaking in foreign language]

348
00:21:59,899 --> 00:22:00,900
[interviewer]

349
00:22:00,984 --> 00:22:02,235
[Akhter]

350
00:22:36,227 --> 00:22:41,482
[man] The workers must not have
any kind of distrust

351
00:22:41,566 --> 00:22:43,610
on their owners.

352
00:22:43,693 --> 00:22:45,361
If they have,

353
00:22:46,029 --> 00:22:51,159
there will not be any good
working atmosphere in the factory.

354
00:22:51,242 --> 00:22:55,997
They must respect,
the owner is paying us as per rule.

355
00:22:57,916 --> 00:23:00,043
If they do not have
this kind of confidence,

356
00:23:00,126 --> 00:23:02,003
you won't get the result.

357
00:23:02,879 --> 00:23:05,173
[Akhter speaking in foreign language]

358
00:23:56,349 --> 00:23:59,018
It's estimated that one
in every six people alive

359
00:23:59,102 --> 00:24:00,436
in the world today

360
00:24:00,520 --> 00:24:03,314
work in some part
of the global fashion industry,

361
00:24:03,398 --> 00:24:06,818
making it the most
labor-dependent industry on earth.

362
00:24:07,819 --> 00:24:11,322
Most of this work is done by people,
like Shima, who have no voice

363
00:24:11,406 --> 00:24:13,032
in the larger supply chain.

364
00:24:13,408 --> 00:24:16,703
But to fully understand the impact
that fashion is having on our world,

365
00:24:16,786 --> 00:24:19,539
we have to go back
to where it all begins.

366
00:24:21,082 --> 00:24:22,834
[engine starts]

367
00:24:24,794 --> 00:24:27,213
[woman] My grandparents settled
out here in the '20s,

368
00:24:27,297 --> 00:24:29,215
and so this is a part of my heritage.

369
00:24:29,299 --> 00:24:32,510
People ask why I'm a cotton farmer,
it's 'cause I don't know better.

370
00:24:32,594 --> 00:24:34,470
My granddaddy was an old German farmer

371
00:24:34,554 --> 00:24:37,765
that felt like we should respect the land,
we're stewards of the land,

372
00:24:37,849 --> 00:24:39,851
and respect the life that's in the land.

373
00:24:41,936 --> 00:24:45,440
You are actually sitting in,
uh, the high plains of Texas,

374
00:24:45,523 --> 00:24:49,152
and there's 3.6 million acres
of cotton growing in this region.

375
00:24:49,235 --> 00:24:51,905
We're literally the biggest
cotton patch in the world.

376
00:24:52,280 --> 00:24:56,367
In just the past ten years,
80 percent of that is now GMO,

377
00:24:56,451 --> 00:24:58,494
genetically modified cotton.

378
00:24:58,578 --> 00:25:00,955
Most of it is, uh, Roundup Ready,

379
00:25:01,039 --> 00:25:04,792
meaning that instead
of the farmers spot-spraying weeds,

380
00:25:04,876 --> 00:25:06,252
occasionally, in their field,

381
00:25:06,336 --> 00:25:09,756
or hiring laborers to walk the field
and eliminate the weeds,

382
00:25:09,839 --> 00:25:12,717
now they're spraying whole fields.

383
00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:14,427
Cotton produces the fiber

384
00:25:14,511 --> 00:25:17,764
that's responsible for most
of the clothing worn by the world today.

385
00:25:17,847 --> 00:25:19,933
And as our appetite
for fashion grows,

386
00:25:20,016 --> 00:25:23,311
the cotton plant itself is being
re-engineered to keep up.

387
00:25:23,394 --> 00:25:25,063
There's been this big drive

388
00:25:25,146 --> 00:25:27,690
towards the industrialization
of agriculture,

389
00:25:27,774 --> 00:25:30,276
the intensification of agriculture.

390
00:25:30,360 --> 00:25:32,487
So, instead of the old forms of farming,

391
00:25:32,570 --> 00:25:34,948
which were very much in-tune with nature,

392
00:25:35,031 --> 00:25:36,991
they were linked to the cycles

393
00:25:37,075 --> 00:25:39,744
of the natural year and the seasons,

394
00:25:39,827 --> 00:25:41,704
what you see now is an intensification

395
00:25:41,788 --> 00:25:45,750
where the land is almost reconsidered
as if it was a factory.

396
00:25:47,377 --> 00:25:50,213
[man] What you've created is
this general practice

397
00:25:50,296 --> 00:25:54,467
of "we treat millions of acres the same."

398
00:25:54,551 --> 00:25:57,720
We put a dose of chemical on it all,

399
00:25:57,804 --> 00:26:01,516
and that's when you get
these big ecological effects

400
00:26:01,599 --> 00:26:05,019
that nobody has a grasp
of what's really happening.

401
00:26:05,645 --> 00:26:09,774
Nature tends to heal itself
in small pockets.

402
00:26:10,525 --> 00:26:14,779
But when you get this big,
broad approach,

403
00:26:15,989 --> 00:26:18,241
we really don't know what's going on.

404
00:26:18,324 --> 00:26:21,619
For us, it's not reducing
the amount of pesticides

405
00:26:21,703 --> 00:26:25,415
and chemicals going on the cotton,
that's one of the big-- It reduces that.

406
00:26:25,498 --> 00:26:27,917
Not in our area, where we are spraying

407
00:26:28,001 --> 00:26:31,880
millions and millions of acres
and dollars of Roundup

408
00:26:31,963 --> 00:26:33,840
across the entire South Plains.

409
00:26:33,923 --> 00:26:36,509
What kind of impact is
that having on our soil,

410
00:26:36,593 --> 00:26:40,513
with residuals that are left
at the microbacterial level?

411
00:26:40,597 --> 00:26:44,017
What kind of impact is that having
on the people in our communities?

412
00:26:44,100 --> 00:26:46,519
Where is the cost on that?

413
00:26:50,440 --> 00:26:52,483
[man] Monsanto is proud
to be the leader

414
00:26:52,567 --> 00:26:53,943
in agricultural innovation,

415
00:26:54,027 --> 00:26:57,113
because of what these agricultural
advancements can do to help you,

416
00:26:57,197 --> 00:26:59,616
double yields for the future needs
of the world.

417
00:27:00,241 --> 00:27:02,952
We're dedicated to the future
of agriculture

418
00:27:03,036 --> 00:27:05,038
and providing farmers with innovations

419
00:27:05,121 --> 00:27:08,208
that help them produce more
and conserve more,

420
00:27:08,291 --> 00:27:11,419
while improving the lives
of people around the world.

421
00:27:11,503 --> 00:27:13,838
Together, we can face the challenges

422
00:27:13,922 --> 00:27:15,340
of the next generation

423
00:27:16,841 --> 00:27:18,384
and beyond.

424
00:27:29,145 --> 00:27:30,480
[woman]
After the wars,

425
00:27:30,563 --> 00:27:32,482
where all these redundant factories

426
00:27:32,565 --> 00:27:37,695
that made war chemicals,
explosives, uh, were lying around,

427
00:27:40,156 --> 00:27:44,160
the Western countries thought
that it would be a good idea

428
00:27:44,244 --> 00:27:46,246
to market them to the third world.

429
00:27:46,329 --> 00:27:49,123
After all, the same industry
that makes explosives

430
00:27:49,207 --> 00:27:51,084
makes nitrogen fertilizers.

431
00:27:51,543 --> 00:27:53,962
And they started
to push nitrogen fertilizers,

432
00:27:54,420 --> 00:27:58,007
from the '50s onwards,
after we became independent.

433
00:27:58,091 --> 00:28:04,848
But the nitrogen fertilizers don't do
very well with native crops.

434
00:28:04,931 --> 00:28:07,267
There's a problem of lodging.

435
00:28:07,350 --> 00:28:10,311
So, the whole system then organized itself

436
00:28:10,395 --> 00:28:12,313
to redesign the plant

437
00:28:12,397 --> 00:28:15,108
in order to take on more chemicals.

438
00:28:15,191 --> 00:28:19,362
Bt Cotton is a cotton in which
a gene has been added,

439
00:28:19,445 --> 00:28:22,699
from a bacteria, to produce a toxin.

440
00:28:22,782 --> 00:28:24,659
But the Bt Cotton,

441
00:28:25,451 --> 00:28:27,412
which is supposed to control a pest,

442
00:28:28,037 --> 00:28:33,626
has been offered because it's a way
for companies to own the seed.

443
00:28:34,252 --> 00:28:37,005
[narrator] By patenting
these genetically modified plants,

444
00:28:37,088 --> 00:28:41,259
Monsanto has become the largest seed
and chemical corporation in history.

445
00:28:41,342 --> 00:28:44,179
I wanted to speak with someone
who'd worked with the company,

446
00:28:44,262 --> 00:28:47,015
and I got word that a former
managing director for India

447
00:28:47,098 --> 00:28:48,266
was willing to talk.

448
00:28:48,349 --> 00:28:50,894
[man] One of my close friends
in the research division,

449
00:28:50,977 --> 00:28:53,646
working on these modified crops,

450
00:28:53,730 --> 00:28:55,940
he came to my hotel for a drink.

451
00:28:57,275 --> 00:29:00,278
We are sitting having a drink,
and after a few drinks he told me,

452
00:29:00,361 --> 00:29:03,698
"Hey, Jag, they're going to change
the type of business

453
00:29:03,781 --> 00:29:05,491
you're doing in India."

454
00:29:06,284 --> 00:29:08,119
I said, "What do you mean?"

455
00:29:08,203 --> 00:29:10,580
"They're going to get
into seeds business.

456
00:29:10,663 --> 00:29:15,251
And they're going to make
the seed business of all crops,

457
00:29:15,335 --> 00:29:17,921
so that we have a monopoly on seeds,

458
00:29:18,338 --> 00:29:22,425
and every farmer has to come to us
to buy seeds every time."

459
00:29:24,010 --> 00:29:26,054
That rang a bell in my mind.

460
00:29:26,721 --> 00:29:30,934
If a poor farmer has to go
to Monsanto to buy seeds every time,

461
00:29:31,976 --> 00:29:34,479
and such expensive seeds,

462
00:29:34,562 --> 00:29:36,814
at the time there's no idea
of Bt at all for me.

463
00:29:36,898 --> 00:29:39,692
Genetically modified seed,
it's not in my mind.

464
00:29:40,443 --> 00:29:43,863
Even seed monopoly
is something very bad.

465
00:29:44,364 --> 00:29:46,991
[Shiva] So farmers get into debt
when they get the seed

466
00:29:47,075 --> 00:29:50,370
because of the high cost,
17,000 percent more.

467
00:29:50,453 --> 00:29:53,998
They get into deeper debt because
it doesn't deliver on the promise

468
00:29:54,082 --> 00:29:57,460
of controlling pests,
so they have to buy more pesticides.

469
00:29:57,544 --> 00:30:01,506
The tragedy with chemicals,
whether it's fertilizers or pesticides,

470
00:30:01,589 --> 00:30:04,884
is that they are what has been called
ecological narcotics:

471
00:30:04,968 --> 00:30:07,387
the more you use them,
the more you need to use them.

472
00:30:07,470 --> 00:30:10,014
For a while, the yield
of the single commodity climbs

473
00:30:10,098 --> 00:30:11,558
and then it starts to decline

474
00:30:11,641 --> 00:30:14,894
because you have contaminated the soil.

475
00:30:22,068 --> 00:30:25,071
Most of India's cotton is grown
in the Punjab region,

476
00:30:25,154 --> 00:30:29,075
which has quickly become
the largest user of pesticides in India.

477
00:30:30,368 --> 00:30:32,787
Dr. Pritpal Singh has
been studying the effects

478
00:30:32,871 --> 00:30:34,581
of these chemicals on human health,

479
00:30:34,664 --> 00:30:38,459
and his reports show dramatic rise
in the number of birth defects,

480
00:30:38,543 --> 00:30:41,588
cancers and mental illness
here in the region.

481
00:30:58,396 --> 00:30:59,981
[boy whimpering]

482
00:31:56,162 --> 00:32:00,208
Companies that make the GM seeds
and make the chemicals

483
00:32:00,291 --> 00:32:01,751
are the same companies.

484
00:32:01,835 --> 00:32:04,546
And they're also the same companies
that make the medicines

485
00:32:04,629 --> 00:32:05,964
which they are now patenting.

486
00:32:06,047 --> 00:32:08,341
So you get cancer,
there are more profits.

487
00:32:08,424 --> 00:32:10,468
For them it's a win, win, win.

488
00:32:10,552 --> 00:32:13,805
As for nature and people,
it's a lose, lose, lose.

489
00:32:14,222 --> 00:32:16,891
It's the day those agents
of these companies

490
00:32:16,975 --> 00:32:19,060
come to the farmer and say,

491
00:32:19,143 --> 00:32:21,855
"You owe me this much.
You haven't paid back.

492
00:32:21,938 --> 00:32:23,940
Now your land is my land."

493
00:32:24,023 --> 00:32:26,985
That day the farmer will go
into his field,

494
00:32:27,068 --> 00:32:29,571
drink a bottle of pesticide,

495
00:32:29,654 --> 00:32:30,780
and end his life.

496
00:32:30,864 --> 00:32:32,782
And every widow I've talked to said,

497
00:32:32,866 --> 00:32:36,411
"And the neighbors came and said
they found my husband lying in the field."

498
00:32:37,453 --> 00:32:38,538
[speaking indistinctly]

499
00:32:38,621 --> 00:32:40,331
In the last 16 years,

500
00:32:40,415 --> 00:32:42,750
there have been more than 250,000

501
00:32:42,834 --> 00:32:45,753
recorded farmer suicides in India.

502
00:32:46,713 --> 00:32:49,382
That's about one farmer every 30 minutes.

503
00:32:49,465 --> 00:32:53,511
And it's the largest recorded wave
of suicides in history.

504
00:33:00,226 --> 00:33:04,189
As it becomes clear just how much
of an impact fashion is having,

505
00:33:04,272 --> 00:33:06,107
there's an increasing amount of research

506
00:33:06,191 --> 00:33:09,527
to suggest that it's also having
a growing effect on us,

507
00:33:09,611 --> 00:33:11,487
the people buying these clothes.

508
00:33:11,905 --> 00:33:15,658
What we now know 20 years later,
and hundreds of studies later,

509
00:33:15,742 --> 00:33:19,245
is that the more the people are focused
on those materialistic values,

510
00:33:19,329 --> 00:33:22,540
the more that they say
that money and image

511
00:33:22,624 --> 00:33:25,877
and status and possessions
are important to them,

512
00:33:25,960 --> 00:33:27,295
the less happy they are,

513
00:33:27,378 --> 00:33:30,548
the more depressed they are,
the more anxious they are.

514
00:33:30,632 --> 00:33:33,718
We know that all of these kinds
of psychological problems

515
00:33:33,801 --> 00:33:37,222
tend to go up
as materialistic values go up.

516
00:33:37,305 --> 00:33:41,976
Now, that's really at odds
with the thousands of messages

517
00:33:42,060 --> 00:33:45,605
that we receive every day
from, uh, advertisements

518
00:33:45,688 --> 00:33:49,484
suggesting that materialism
and the pursuit of possessions

519
00:33:49,567 --> 00:33:51,861
and owning stuff
is what's gonna make us happy.

520
00:33:51,945 --> 00:33:56,157
It's important to understand
that advertising is a species

521
00:33:56,241 --> 00:33:58,493
or a category of propaganda.

522
00:33:58,993 --> 00:34:03,623
You think of propaganda
as a totalitarian thing, very grim,

523
00:34:03,706 --> 00:34:07,126
loudspeakers, you know,
chanting crowds and so on,

524
00:34:07,210 --> 00:34:08,503
and we think of Hitler.

525
00:34:08,586 --> 00:34:11,381
We always think of it
as a foreign thing, okay,

526
00:34:11,464 --> 00:34:13,883
but it's actually as American
as apple pie.

527
00:34:17,846 --> 00:34:20,849
[Kasser] Well, the reason
that advertising works is because

528
00:34:20,932 --> 00:34:22,934
the smart advertisers, at least,

529
00:34:23,017 --> 00:34:26,729
are trying to tie the consumption
of their product

530
00:34:26,813 --> 00:34:30,358
to a message that suggests

531
00:34:30,441 --> 00:34:32,902
that your needs will be satisfied

532
00:34:32,986 --> 00:34:35,071
by consuming this thing.

533
00:34:35,154 --> 00:34:36,823
It wants you to believe

534
00:34:36,906 --> 00:34:39,075
that you'll look wonderful in that thing.

535
00:34:39,158 --> 00:34:40,910
But then to put it on and feel like,

536
00:34:40,994 --> 00:34:43,997
"Nah, you look kind of fat in it,
you don't look that good in it,

537
00:34:44,080 --> 00:34:47,208
you're sorry you bought it,
but there's another one you can buy."

538
00:35:15,278 --> 00:35:19,240
[Kasser] So think of all of the car
commercials you see that show,

539
00:35:19,324 --> 00:35:22,285
"Well, I've really made it now,
I'm a competent person

540
00:35:22,368 --> 00:35:26,164
because I'm driving this BMW
or this Audi."

541
00:35:26,247 --> 00:35:28,833
Or think of all the shampoo
commercials you've seen,

542
00:35:28,917 --> 00:35:32,170
where the person now
has beautiful flowing hair

543
00:35:32,253 --> 00:35:35,423
and is loved and appreciated
by the people around them.

544
00:35:35,507 --> 00:35:37,467
The basic message is the same:

545
00:35:37,550 --> 00:35:40,220
the way to solve
the problems of your life,

546
00:35:40,303 --> 00:35:42,096
we all have problems in our life,

547
00:35:42,180 --> 00:35:45,475
the way to solve the problem in your life
is through consumption.

548
00:35:45,558 --> 00:35:46,768
Hey, you guys!

549
00:35:46,851 --> 00:35:49,729
Today I am coming to you guys
with a clothing haul!

550
00:35:49,812 --> 00:35:53,358
I went shopping a couple days ago
and literally went insane

551
00:35:53,441 --> 00:35:55,527
and bought so many things.

552
00:35:55,610 --> 00:35:58,905
My spam box, I don't know,
where it's literally blown up,

553
00:35:58,988 --> 00:36:01,282
by you guys saying
you guys wanted a haul.

554
00:36:01,366 --> 00:36:03,409
So, here it is.

555
00:36:03,493 --> 00:36:07,163
Okey-dokey, so first off,
I have some things that I got from H&M.

556
00:36:07,247 --> 00:36:09,541
So, then I went to Forever 21.

557
00:36:09,624 --> 00:36:12,752
It wasn't even a question,
it was just fate. I had to get it.

558
00:36:12,836 --> 00:36:15,922
Like, if it could levitate towards me,
it would have levitated.

559
00:36:16,005 --> 00:36:17,715
I got this skirt,

560
00:36:18,258 --> 00:36:22,303
bright yellow, and it was $8.50.

561
00:36:22,387 --> 00:36:25,431
It's a jean button-up thing.

562
00:36:25,515 --> 00:36:28,518
And I just loved this,
I just loved it, loved it, loved it!

563
00:36:28,601 --> 00:36:31,479
It's a gray knit sweater,
and it has pink hearts all over it.

564
00:36:31,563 --> 00:36:33,857
I loved... I love tie-dye things.

565
00:36:33,940 --> 00:36:36,484
Like tie-dye things are literally
the bomb.net.

566
00:36:36,568 --> 00:36:39,028
It has a little yin yang sign
on the front of it.

567
00:36:39,112 --> 00:36:40,488
I just love these so much.

568
00:36:40,572 --> 00:36:44,075
And it's just this really pretty,
light blue sweater.

569
00:36:44,158 --> 00:36:47,745
I don't know if I'm gonna wear this.
I don't know if I like it that much.

570
00:36:47,829 --> 00:36:49,747
I need to stop.

571
00:36:55,628 --> 00:36:57,172
[man]
I try to understand better

572
00:36:57,255 --> 00:37:01,092
why people don't realize that they're
becoming poorer and poorer.

573
00:37:01,176 --> 00:37:04,470
And I ask myself, okay,
but what has changed

574
00:37:04,554 --> 00:37:06,222
in respect of when I was young?

575
00:37:06,306 --> 00:37:09,434
And fashion is something
that has dramatically changed.

576
00:37:09,517 --> 00:37:12,312
I was able to buy one, two T-shirts,

577
00:37:12,395 --> 00:37:14,439
four T-shirts, for example, a year.

578
00:37:14,522 --> 00:37:17,567
Now, I mean, also my children,
they used to buy,

579
00:37:17,650 --> 00:37:19,944
every party, they buy a T-shirt.

580
00:37:20,028 --> 00:37:24,365
And so I understood that Fast Fashion
is something totally new.

581
00:37:24,449 --> 00:37:28,995
If you have noticed, the price has
decreased in the last years.

582
00:37:29,078 --> 00:37:33,416
And it does follow
the middle class disappearing.

583
00:37:33,499 --> 00:37:38,338
So all the things that people really need
are very costly,

584
00:37:38,421 --> 00:37:43,343
like a home, like studies,
like, uh, life insurance.

585
00:37:43,426 --> 00:37:47,388
On the other side,
there is a source of consolation,

586
00:37:47,472 --> 00:37:49,974
um, part of their life.

587
00:37:50,058 --> 00:37:53,811
They can, uh, buy a T-shirt,

588
00:37:53,895 --> 00:37:57,065
two T-shirts a party,
or eventually a day,

589
00:37:57,815 --> 00:38:00,318
although I'm very poor
and I've got lost--

590
00:38:00,401 --> 00:38:03,071
I've lost all the things
I really needed.

591
00:38:03,154 --> 00:38:05,990
Today we purchase over
80 billion pieces of new clothing

592
00:38:06,074 --> 00:38:07,116
each year.

593
00:38:07,200 --> 00:38:11,329
That's 400 percent more than the amount
we bought just two decades ago.

594
00:38:11,412 --> 00:38:14,582
The way we buy clothes
has changed so much, so fast

595
00:38:14,666 --> 00:38:16,626
that few people have
actually stepped back

596
00:38:16,709 --> 00:38:19,629
to understand the origin
of this new model or the consequence

597
00:38:19,712 --> 00:38:22,715
of such an unprecedented increase
in consumption.

598
00:38:22,799 --> 00:38:27,220
[Miller] There's, um,
an article in Printers' Ink,

599
00:38:27,303 --> 00:38:31,182
which is the leading
advertising trade journal of its day,

600
00:38:31,266 --> 00:38:35,562
uh, by a very famous copywriter,
named Earnest Elmo Calkins.

601
00:38:35,645 --> 00:38:39,607
He was a grand old man
of the art of writing advertising copy.

602
00:38:40,191 --> 00:38:42,652
It was an article called
"Consumptionism."

603
00:38:43,778 --> 00:38:48,408
In that article, he says
there are two kinds of products.

604
00:38:48,491 --> 00:38:51,995
Okay, there are the kind
that you use,

605
00:38:52,078 --> 00:38:54,998
like washing machines,
cars and so on,

606
00:38:55,081 --> 00:38:58,459
things that you buy
and use for a long time.

607
00:38:59,294 --> 00:39:01,713
And then there are
the things that you use up,

608
00:39:02,422 --> 00:39:05,550
like chewing gum and cigarettes,
other perishables.

609
00:39:06,009 --> 00:39:10,221
He said, uh, consumptionism
is all about getting people

610
00:39:10,305 --> 00:39:12,599
to treat the things they use

611
00:39:12,682 --> 00:39:14,726
as the things they use up.

612
00:39:14,809 --> 00:39:18,021
[woman] With their innovative
Buy 1, Get 3 Free pricing,

613
00:39:18,104 --> 00:39:19,522
a suit from Joseph A. Bank

614
00:39:19,606 --> 00:39:21,983
is effectively cheaper
than paper towels.

615
00:39:23,026 --> 00:39:25,862
And now they come
in these easy-to-use dispensers.

616
00:39:26,905 --> 00:39:29,949
With four suits for the price
of a modest dinner,

617
00:39:30,033 --> 00:39:33,203
I can feel good about
throwing them away when I'm done.

618
00:39:36,664 --> 00:39:40,210
You just have to look at landfill
and you can see in landfill

619
00:39:40,293 --> 00:39:43,129
that the amount of clothes
and textiles being chucked away

620
00:39:43,213 --> 00:39:46,424
has been increasing steadily
over the last ten years,

621
00:39:46,508 --> 00:39:49,928
um, as the sort of dirty shadow
of the Fast Fashion industry.

622
00:39:53,139 --> 00:39:55,850
[Siegle]
As we get sort of closer and closer

623
00:39:55,934 --> 00:39:58,061
to species degradation,

624
00:39:58,144 --> 00:40:02,065
to, uh, trashing our last remaining
pristine wilderness,

625
00:40:02,148 --> 00:40:05,652
we seem hell-bent on producing
more and more disposable stuff.

626
00:40:05,735 --> 00:40:07,237
It makes no sense.

627
00:40:07,320 --> 00:40:10,698
Fashion should never
and can never be thought of

628
00:40:10,782 --> 00:40:12,867
as a disposable product.

629
00:40:12,951 --> 00:40:15,328
[Dean] I think after any big change
in any industry,

630
00:40:15,411 --> 00:40:18,706
it takes a while to sort of feel and smell

631
00:40:18,790 --> 00:40:22,669
the dirt that comes out of something,
um, that is polluting.

632
00:40:22,752 --> 00:40:25,088
So, I think now there is a change

633
00:40:25,171 --> 00:40:28,675
because you can't deny

634
00:40:28,758 --> 00:40:30,593
that the Fast Fashion industry

635
00:40:30,677 --> 00:40:33,429
is having a massive impact
in developing countries.

636
00:40:33,888 --> 00:40:36,474
[narrator] The average American
throws away 82 pounds

637
00:40:36,558 --> 00:40:38,726
of textile waste each year.

638
00:40:38,810 --> 00:40:42,021
Adding up to more than
11 million tons of textile waste

639
00:40:42,105 --> 00:40:43,898
from the U.S. alone.

640
00:40:43,982 --> 00:40:46,651
Most of this waste is non-biodegradable.

641
00:40:46,734 --> 00:40:49,487
Meaning it sits in landfills
for 200 years or more,

642
00:40:49,571 --> 00:40:52,574
while releasing harmful gases
into the air.

643
00:40:52,657 --> 00:40:55,785
[de Castro] The sheer amount
of cheap clothing,

644
00:40:55,869 --> 00:40:59,706
even though people feel,
perhaps somehow,

645
00:40:59,789 --> 00:41:02,625
um, that they're offsetting
by giving to charity.

646
00:41:02,709 --> 00:41:06,504
You know, the journey of a T-shirt
donated to charity

647
00:41:06,588 --> 00:41:08,965
is unpalatable in itself.

648
00:41:11,968 --> 00:41:15,972
[woman] Pepe, um...
It is a disease in Haiti.

649
00:41:16,055 --> 00:41:19,726
Not only in Haiti, I think like in any
third world country that you're visiting.

650
00:41:19,809 --> 00:41:22,937
Like, you know...
It's a problem, it's a huge problem.

651
00:41:23,813 --> 00:41:26,482
Pepe, a bunch of clothes,

652
00:41:26,566 --> 00:41:29,694
most of them came from the States.

653
00:41:30,361 --> 00:41:33,114
People will go and buy
a box full of clothes.

654
00:41:33,198 --> 00:41:35,533
They don't even know what they're buying.

655
00:41:35,617 --> 00:41:39,078
Those are clothes
people donate to charity,

656
00:41:39,162 --> 00:41:43,416
and charity cannot sell them
on their thrift store or whatever.

657
00:41:43,499 --> 00:41:47,921
They pack them, ship them
to those third countries,

658
00:41:48,004 --> 00:41:50,006
and most of them end up here.

659
00:41:50,089 --> 00:41:53,051
It turns out that only about 10 percent
of the clothes we donate

660
00:41:53,134 --> 00:41:55,220
actually get sold
in local thrift stores.

661
00:41:55,303 --> 00:41:57,972
And as we're going through
our clothing faster and faster,

662
00:41:58,056 --> 00:42:02,185
now more of it is being dumped
into developing countries, like Haiti.

663
00:42:02,268 --> 00:42:05,647
As the amount of secondhand clothing
coming into Haiti has increased,

664
00:42:05,730 --> 00:42:08,525
the local clothing industry here
has disappeared.

665
00:42:09,108 --> 00:42:11,402
Once a proud, local tailoring sector,

666
00:42:11,486 --> 00:42:14,155
Haiti now produces mostly cheap T-shirts

667
00:42:14,239 --> 00:42:16,616
for export to America.

668
00:42:16,699 --> 00:42:19,118
[speaking in foreign language]

669
00:42:46,145 --> 00:42:50,567
[Charlot] So I'll tell people,
stop buying things that is not good,

670
00:42:50,650 --> 00:42:52,652
that is costing, like 10 dollars,

671
00:42:52,735 --> 00:42:56,281
you going to go on a ball,
you going out today.

672
00:42:56,364 --> 00:42:59,242
You just go to a store
and buy yourself a dress for 10 dollars.

673
00:42:59,325 --> 00:43:02,370
Because it cost 10 dollars
and I can throw it away.

674
00:43:02,453 --> 00:43:06,040
And tomorrow you are going to do the
same thing over and over and over again.

675
00:43:08,001 --> 00:43:10,920
As awareness of fashion's impact
on our world is growing,

676
00:43:11,004 --> 00:43:14,090
there are key leaders in the industry
who are beginning to question

677
00:43:14,174 --> 00:43:16,885
the impacts of a model
built on careless production

678
00:43:16,968 --> 00:43:18,928
and endless consumption.

679
00:43:19,012 --> 00:43:22,891
[man] At Patagonia,
we hate the word "consumers."

680
00:43:22,974 --> 00:43:24,309
[chuckles]

681
00:43:24,392 --> 00:43:27,687
We've got to find a better word,
we prefer, uh, "customers,"

682
00:43:27,770 --> 00:43:31,316
and we prefer also customers
who recognize

683
00:43:31,399 --> 00:43:33,735
the impact of their consumption.

684
00:43:33,818 --> 00:43:38,823
They recognize that, uh, as consumers,
they're part of the problem.

685
00:43:38,907 --> 00:43:44,078
Uh, we are hopeful that we can
encourage our customers to join us

686
00:43:44,162 --> 00:43:46,372
in really questioning consumption.

687
00:43:46,456 --> 00:43:48,625
Because without a reduction
in consumption,

688
00:43:48,708 --> 00:43:52,253
we don't feel that we'll really
collectively find a solution

689
00:43:52,337 --> 00:43:58,009
to the problems we face,
that are collectively, year by year, uh,

690
00:43:58,092 --> 00:44:01,763
resulting in the continued decline
of the, uh, health of our planet.

691
00:44:03,515 --> 00:44:06,267
[woman] I mean, the fashion industry
just needs to think.

692
00:44:06,351 --> 00:44:10,271
It needs to just stop and sort of look
at how it's been working

693
00:44:10,355 --> 00:44:13,858
in a conventional way, and just sort of
question it, challenge it.

694
00:44:13,942 --> 00:44:15,318
That's for me, as a designer,

695
00:44:15,401 --> 00:44:18,238
that's the most exciting thing
that I do now.

696
00:44:18,321 --> 00:44:21,241
More exciting than saying,
"Oh, I love this color this season,"

697
00:44:21,324 --> 00:44:23,826
or, "This is the silhouette
or the hemline."

698
00:44:23,910 --> 00:44:26,621
For me, a way bigger challenge

699
00:44:26,704 --> 00:44:29,123
and excitement is actually looking
at my industry

700
00:44:29,207 --> 00:44:34,212
and saying, "I'm gonna do it in a way
that is not as harmful to the planet."

701
00:44:35,004 --> 00:44:40,301
Business through advertising
has, uh, pulled society along

702
00:44:40,385 --> 00:44:45,098
into this belief that, uh, happiness is
based on stuff,

703
00:44:45,181 --> 00:44:47,684
that, uh, true happiness can
only be achieved

704
00:44:47,767 --> 00:44:52,981
with, you know, an annual,
seasonal, weekly, daily

705
00:44:53,064 --> 00:44:55,942
increase in the amount of stuff
you're bringing into your life.

706
00:44:56,025 --> 00:44:58,570
That we want to encourage
our customers

707
00:44:58,653 --> 00:45:00,905
to think twice about
those assumptions,

708
00:45:00,989 --> 00:45:03,533
to understand where they came from.

709
00:45:03,616 --> 00:45:06,911
And through that understanding,
to know that, uh, we can all together,

710
00:45:06,995 --> 00:45:08,580
we can change how this is done.

711
00:45:08,663 --> 00:45:11,374
The customer has to know
that they're in charge.

712
00:45:11,457 --> 00:45:13,418
Without them, we don't have jobs.

713
00:45:13,501 --> 00:45:15,253
And that is really important.

714
00:45:15,336 --> 00:45:17,005
So you don't have to buy into it.

715
00:45:17,088 --> 00:45:19,924
If you don't like it,
you don't have to buy into it.

716
00:45:22,927 --> 00:45:25,221
[Minney]
I love the embroidery, Shantu.

717
00:45:27,932 --> 00:45:29,350
The embroidery is really nice.

718
00:45:29,434 --> 00:45:32,061
You think we should have
the embroidery on both sides?

719
00:45:32,145 --> 00:45:35,523
I think we should definitely add
the embroidery here as well.

720
00:45:35,607 --> 00:45:38,401
I think it looks a bit mean
to have it just on the front,

721
00:45:38,484 --> 00:45:40,486
so let's have it on the sides, too.

722
00:45:41,613 --> 00:45:43,031
It won't add much cost,

723
00:45:43,114 --> 00:45:44,908
it's not so dense, is it?

724
00:45:44,991 --> 00:45:47,160
[indistinct chatter]

725
00:45:50,288 --> 00:45:53,458
Swallows is a fair trade
fashion business,

726
00:45:53,541 --> 00:45:56,252
but it's also a development society.

727
00:45:56,336 --> 00:46:00,590
So it helps more than 3000 people
in this village.

728
00:46:02,175 --> 00:46:03,843
I come here every four months.

729
00:46:03,927 --> 00:46:05,887
We call them "production trips."

730
00:46:05,970 --> 00:46:08,389
And, um, we're working
with the producers,

731
00:46:08,473 --> 00:46:10,558
trying to find out what are the barriers

732
00:46:10,642 --> 00:46:14,187
to making a great product
and to getting it to the market.

733
00:46:14,270 --> 00:46:16,814
And we're also doing
fair trade capacity building.

734
00:46:16,898 --> 00:46:19,526
So, looking at, you know,
what are the obstacles

735
00:46:19,609 --> 00:46:21,778
to delivering more social benefit

736
00:46:21,861 --> 00:46:25,949
or improving the environmental
protection in these areas?

737
00:46:26,032 --> 00:46:28,034
For me, this is about partnering.

738
00:46:28,117 --> 00:46:32,664
This is about finding creative solutions,
together with them, with the team here,

739
00:46:32,747 --> 00:46:37,252
and listening to what their problems are
and finding a way that works, together.

740
00:46:47,345 --> 00:46:52,767
I want to invite the best employee
here at Swallows,

741
00:46:52,851 --> 00:46:57,814
I want to invite one female
representative from Swallows

742
00:46:57,897 --> 00:47:02,235
to come to London in autumn
or next spring.

743
00:47:02,318 --> 00:47:04,028
And I would like you to think

744
00:47:04,112 --> 00:47:06,614
who would be that best representative.

745
00:47:07,240 --> 00:47:09,325
But I want you to know
who your customers are,

746
00:47:09,409 --> 00:47:11,911
and I want you to really
understand the marketplace

747
00:47:11,995 --> 00:47:14,497
and come back
and tell all your friends.

748
00:47:14,581 --> 00:47:16,875
[man speaking in foreign language]

749
00:47:19,419 --> 00:47:20,795
[Minney]
With you.

750
00:47:20,879 --> 00:47:22,338
[women laugh]

751
00:47:41,524 --> 00:47:44,319
Either, if she does it single thread,
single stitch,

752
00:47:44,402 --> 00:47:47,113
then maybe she needs
to do more densely?

753
00:47:47,197 --> 00:47:48,656
-Okay.
-More concentrated.

754
00:47:48,740 --> 00:47:51,034
[speaking in foreign language]

755
00:48:01,252 --> 00:48:04,672
So, um...
If she continues for a bit,

756
00:48:04,756 --> 00:48:07,550
we're gonna go up
to the sample room now, for SS15.

757
00:48:07,634 --> 00:48:11,221
Can she come and show us
the next one that she does?

758
00:48:11,304 --> 00:48:12,597
Yeah.

759
00:48:16,851 --> 00:48:19,562
[Minney] I hoped that People Tree
wouldn't be necessary,

760
00:48:19,646 --> 00:48:24,567
and I hoped that we would have
a trading system that looked after

761
00:48:24,651 --> 00:48:27,153
people's rights and the environment.

762
00:48:28,154 --> 00:48:30,698
But the more and more involved
I got in developing

763
00:48:30,782 --> 00:48:34,285
and working closely with partners,
the more,

764
00:48:34,369 --> 00:48:36,788
you know, dirt and filth I discovered

765
00:48:36,871 --> 00:48:40,458
about how trading practices
undermine everything that we believe in

766
00:48:40,542 --> 00:48:44,879
and everything I know
most people believe and value.

767
00:48:44,963 --> 00:48:46,464
Um...

768
00:48:47,674 --> 00:48:49,884
I don't know,
People Tree just grew organically.

769
00:48:49,968 --> 00:48:52,887
It grew from, um,
a really great collection of people

770
00:48:52,971 --> 00:48:55,640
that feel passionately
that there's a different way of...

771
00:48:55,723 --> 00:48:58,977
Of working, of living, of consuming,

772
00:48:59,060 --> 00:49:02,272
of, you know, interacting with people
by a humane way.

773
00:49:02,355 --> 00:49:03,565
Um...

774
00:49:03,648 --> 00:49:05,650
And, uh, you know,

775
00:49:05,733 --> 00:49:08,444
I didn't necessarily feel
that there'd be a thousand shops

776
00:49:08,528 --> 00:49:10,864
selling People Tree today, um,

777
00:49:10,947 --> 00:49:13,449
and I see that there's so much more
that we need to do.

778
00:49:13,533 --> 00:49:16,119
So, I think it's not just about,
you know, creating jobs

779
00:49:16,202 --> 00:49:18,413
for the 7000 people that work
for People Tree.

780
00:49:18,496 --> 00:49:21,457
It's also about being a catalyst
for change within the industry,

781
00:49:21,541 --> 00:49:23,543
and showing, proving the model works.

782
00:49:35,180 --> 00:49:36,806
[Pepper]
When we first went organic,

783
00:49:36,890 --> 00:49:39,058
there was only two or three of us
at the time,

784
00:49:39,142 --> 00:49:42,020
and we formed the Texas Organic
Cotton Marketing Cooperative,

785
00:49:42,103 --> 00:49:44,439
and the deal was they'd grow it
and I'd sell it.

786
00:49:44,522 --> 00:49:47,066
So, I started going to, like, Jacob Javits

787
00:49:47,150 --> 00:49:49,986
and having this whole deal,
cotton plants and everything,

788
00:49:50,069 --> 00:49:52,280
and of, "Yeah, we've got organic cotton,"

789
00:49:52,363 --> 00:49:55,909
and people would just look at us
like we were absolutely crazy.

790
00:49:57,911 --> 00:50:00,455
Many times consumers become aware

791
00:50:00,538 --> 00:50:03,082
of organic milk,
or they have an allergy.

792
00:50:03,166 --> 00:50:07,128
And so, interestingly enough, cotton,
and what they put on their body,

793
00:50:07,212 --> 00:50:09,714
even though the skin's
the largest organ on your body,

794
00:50:09,797 --> 00:50:11,549
isn't even on their radar screen

795
00:50:11,633 --> 00:50:15,220
because they're not getting the connection
of, "Oh, I eat this organic apple,

796
00:50:15,303 --> 00:50:17,764
therefore I'm not directly ingesting

797
00:50:17,847 --> 00:50:21,059
pesticides or chemicals,
or whatever the case may be."

798
00:50:21,142 --> 00:50:23,436
But they don't get that connection
with clothing.

799
00:50:23,520 --> 00:50:26,356
So, you have to start looking
in that bigger community scope.

800
00:50:26,439 --> 00:50:29,025
That it is about our air,
it's about our world.

801
00:50:29,108 --> 00:50:31,819
It's about our planet,
it's about our people.

802
00:50:31,903 --> 00:50:34,239
And so it is that awareness of--

803
00:50:34,322 --> 00:50:38,826
You may not feel that you're having direct
impact by buying this organic shirt.

804
00:50:39,536 --> 00:50:41,371
But the impact you're having

805
00:50:41,454 --> 00:50:43,873
is in the bigger picture
in the world at large,

806
00:50:43,957 --> 00:50:46,876
and especially in the community
where the cotton's grown.

807
00:50:59,430 --> 00:51:01,391
As the hard freeze comes,

808
00:51:01,474 --> 00:51:03,726
as organic farmers,
we wait for that freeze

809
00:51:03,810 --> 00:51:08,648
because that literally defoliates, uh,
takes the leaves off the plant,

810
00:51:08,731 --> 00:51:13,152
so that when we harvest,
the bolls open that are mature,

811
00:51:13,236 --> 00:51:14,654
and it leaves the cotton here,

812
00:51:14,737 --> 00:51:17,156
and you can see
it kind of comes out in sections.

813
00:51:17,240 --> 00:51:21,202
So, this, uh, machine that's coming
is called a Cotton Stripper.

814
00:51:21,286 --> 00:51:25,665
And it's called a Cotton Stripper
because it comes along and strips,

815
00:51:25,748 --> 00:51:28,168
uses kind of fingers,
and it literally strips

816
00:51:28,251 --> 00:51:32,005
all of the bolls off of this plant.

817
00:51:32,088 --> 00:51:34,257
So, when you look over there,
you can see

818
00:51:34,340 --> 00:51:37,760
the harvester's been there
and it's taken all the plants off.

819
00:51:48,229 --> 00:51:51,107
I think one of the problems
that we have in the current model

820
00:51:51,191 --> 00:51:53,109
is it's all about the profit.

821
00:51:53,193 --> 00:51:57,947
And it doesn't take into consideration:
"This cost at what cost?"

822
00:51:58,031 --> 00:52:01,492
The cost of polluting the water,
the cost of labor,

823
00:52:01,576 --> 00:52:03,119
the cost of bars on the window

824
00:52:03,203 --> 00:52:05,747
that people die when a fire breaks out
in the factory,

825
00:52:05,830 --> 00:52:08,708
the cost of farmers
that don't have access

826
00:52:08,791 --> 00:52:10,793
to education and health care.

827
00:52:10,877 --> 00:52:14,672
And so we haven't really factored in
what the true cost is.

828
00:52:20,136 --> 00:52:23,890
[man]
Kanpur is situated along river Ganga,

829
00:52:23,973 --> 00:52:26,476
which is the holiest river.

830
00:52:26,559 --> 00:52:31,940
And it's also very important
for 800 million Hindus,

831
00:52:32,023 --> 00:52:36,444
and also it serves as the lifeline
of North India.

832
00:52:36,528 --> 00:52:39,572
So, this river is being polluted
and killed

833
00:52:39,656 --> 00:52:43,076
by the leather factories of Kanpur.

834
00:52:45,036 --> 00:52:47,997
With growing demand
for materials like cheap leather,

835
00:52:48,081 --> 00:52:51,918
Kanpur is now
the leather export capital of India.

836
00:53:01,511 --> 00:53:05,306
Every day here, more than
50 million liters of toxic wastewater

837
00:53:05,390 --> 00:53:07,392
pour out of the local tanneries.

838
00:53:07,475 --> 00:53:10,395
Heavy chemicals used
to treat the leather like chromium-6

839
00:53:10,478 --> 00:53:13,398
flow into local farming
and even drinking water.

840
00:53:14,440 --> 00:53:17,652
In places like Kanpur,
far from the eyes of the world,

841
00:53:17,735 --> 00:53:20,446
major western brands are able
to source cheap materials

842
00:53:20,530 --> 00:53:24,576
while avoiding all accountability
for the growing cost to human health

843
00:53:24,659 --> 00:53:26,327
and the environment.

844
00:53:36,045 --> 00:53:42,093
People in that area are in the tight grip
of tannery pollution.

845
00:53:42,177 --> 00:53:47,599
The local environment is contaminated,
soil is contaminated.

846
00:53:47,682 --> 00:53:50,643
The only drinking water source,

847
00:53:50,727 --> 00:53:53,771
ground water, is contaminated
with chromium.

848
00:53:54,397 --> 00:53:56,232
Agricultural produce,

849
00:53:56,316 --> 00:53:59,736
even vegetables and, uh, salad items,

850
00:53:59,819 --> 00:54:01,905
are, uh, produced there.

851
00:54:01,988 --> 00:54:05,116
People's health is affected.

852
00:54:05,200 --> 00:54:08,661
People have different kinds
of dermal problems:

853
00:54:09,454 --> 00:54:12,165
skin rashes, boils, pustules,

854
00:54:12,248 --> 00:54:14,209
even numbness in the limbs.

855
00:54:14,292 --> 00:54:18,880
People have stomach ailments,
maybe they have cancers also.

856
00:54:20,381 --> 00:54:23,009
[speaking in foreign language]

857
00:54:59,170 --> 00:55:01,881
You can have the best
of materials moving

858
00:55:01,965 --> 00:55:07,345
into the high-end fashion market,
in Milan or Paris or London.

859
00:55:07,428 --> 00:55:11,850
But there has been so much work
which has gone behind it,

860
00:55:11,933 --> 00:55:14,435
and so much of chemicals has gone into it,

861
00:55:14,519 --> 00:55:17,188
the effluents have been discharging
to so many rivers.

862
00:55:17,272 --> 00:55:19,941
But we are only looking
at that point of time

863
00:55:20,024 --> 00:55:22,110
into the finished product.

864
00:55:22,193 --> 00:55:25,113
We need to step back and think about it.

865
00:55:28,324 --> 00:55:32,662
Fashion today is the number two
most polluting industry on earth,

866
00:55:32,745 --> 00:55:35,123
second only to the oil industry.

867
00:55:35,206 --> 00:55:37,584
The alarming thing is
that not only is fashion using

868
00:55:37,667 --> 00:55:39,377
a huge amount of natural resources

869
00:55:39,460 --> 00:55:41,921
and creating staggering
environmental impacts,

870
00:55:42,005 --> 00:55:46,050
these natural resources and this impact
is often not even measured.

871
00:55:46,134 --> 00:55:49,637
Because they've been
so abundant, these resources,

872
00:55:49,721 --> 00:55:53,224
uh, it's been assumed that they're going
to be there forever.

873
00:55:53,308 --> 00:55:57,437
Uh, so, I think business has
not accounted for them because, uh,

874
00:55:57,520 --> 00:55:59,814
it's only since the 1950s

875
00:55:59,898 --> 00:56:04,110
that we've really had
this industrial expansion

876
00:56:04,194 --> 00:56:08,323
at such a rate that we started
to see exponential growth

877
00:56:08,406 --> 00:56:11,201
and exponential use of natural resources.

878
00:56:11,284 --> 00:56:14,412
The first economy on which our lives rest
is nature's economy.

879
00:56:14,495 --> 00:56:16,623
Nature has an economy.

880
00:56:16,706 --> 00:56:20,543
That economy is huge.
It's not counted.

881
00:56:20,835 --> 00:56:23,922
Then we have people's economy,
women working, laborers working,

882
00:56:24,005 --> 00:56:25,548
farmers growing.

883
00:56:25,632 --> 00:56:28,968
And that was made invisible
through this construct,

884
00:56:29,052 --> 00:56:31,930
first in the Depression,
and then during the war years,

885
00:56:32,013 --> 00:56:36,184
of the number called the GDP,
the Gross Domestic Product,

886
00:56:36,267 --> 00:56:41,439
which measures only that which is traded,

887
00:56:41,523 --> 00:56:43,149
and has become a commodity.

888
00:56:43,233 --> 00:56:45,068
[Schragger]
A lot of the resources

889
00:56:45,151 --> 00:56:50,073
that we use to, uh, make
our clothing are not accounted for

890
00:56:50,156 --> 00:56:53,868
in the cost of producing those clothes.

891
00:56:53,952 --> 00:56:59,582
Uh, so one has, uh, water that's used
to produce clothing,

892
00:56:59,666 --> 00:57:03,169
land that's used to grow the fiber, uh,

893
00:57:03,253 --> 00:57:06,422
chemicals that, uh, are used to dye.

894
00:57:07,131 --> 00:57:10,969
Those things, uh, all are inputs.

895
00:57:11,427 --> 00:57:14,681
And as inputs, they cost something,

896
00:57:14,764 --> 00:57:17,642
uh, and they also give outputs,

897
00:57:17,725 --> 00:57:22,230
in some cases good outputs,
the clothing themselves, jobs,

898
00:57:22,313 --> 00:57:26,067
but in other cases bad outputs,
like harmful chemicals,

899
00:57:26,150 --> 00:57:28,152
or greenhouse gas emissions,

900
00:57:28,236 --> 00:57:30,405
and those things have costs as well.

901
00:57:40,999 --> 00:57:42,834
[speaking in foreign language]

902
00:57:44,127 --> 00:57:46,671
[interviewer]

903
00:57:46,754 --> 00:57:48,298
[Akhter]

904
00:58:09,694 --> 00:58:11,696
[Nadia speaks in foreign language]

905
00:58:12,405 --> 00:58:14,574
[interviewer]

906
00:58:14,657 --> 00:58:16,117
[Akhter]

907
00:58:31,466 --> 00:58:34,177
The same low wages that have
made places like Bangladesh

908
00:58:34,260 --> 00:58:36,721
so attractive for brands to do business

909
00:58:36,804 --> 00:58:40,225
have left millions of workers here
working incredibly long hours,

910
00:58:40,308 --> 00:58:42,602
unable to afford
to keep their children with them,

911
00:58:42,685 --> 00:58:45,230
even in the cities' worst slums.

912
00:58:45,313 --> 00:58:47,649
In order to give their children
an education

913
00:58:47,732 --> 00:58:50,568
and the chance of a better future
than life in the factories,

914
00:58:50,652 --> 00:58:54,405
many garment workers here,
like Shima, are leaving their children

915
00:58:54,489 --> 00:58:58,076
to be raised by family or friends
in villages outside the city,

916
00:58:58,159 --> 00:59:00,954
only getting to see them
once or twice a year.

917
00:59:44,163 --> 00:59:46,332
[speaking in foreign language]

918
01:00:15,236 --> 01:00:17,530
[all speaking in foreign language]

919
01:00:48,686 --> 01:00:50,980
[speaking in foreign language]

920
01:02:20,862 --> 01:02:22,864
You know, we are actually profiting

921
01:02:22,947 --> 01:02:28,119
from their, um, need to work,
to use them as slaves.

922
01:02:28,203 --> 01:02:31,956
And I'm not saying that we don't--
We need to give them work,

923
01:02:32,040 --> 01:02:36,544
but they have to be treated
with the same respect

924
01:02:36,628 --> 01:02:39,714
that we treat our children, our friends.

925
01:02:39,797 --> 01:02:41,341
They're not different from us.

926
01:02:42,050 --> 01:02:44,219
Livia Firth has been calling
for major change

927
01:02:44,302 --> 01:02:45,512
in the fashion industry.

928
01:02:45,595 --> 01:02:49,140
She made headlines by starting something
called "The Green Carpet Challenge,"

929
01:02:49,224 --> 01:02:50,892
urging celebrities and top designers

930
01:02:50,975 --> 01:02:53,811
to take part in more mindful forms
of fashion.

931
01:02:53,895 --> 01:02:56,814
She runs a sustainability
consulting firm called Eco Age

932
01:02:56,898 --> 01:03:00,860
and had just been invited to speak
on the future of fashion.

933
01:03:00,944 --> 01:03:03,238
[Firth] If Fast Fashion didn't exist,

934
01:03:03,321 --> 01:03:05,865
we wouldn't need to have
a summit in Copenhagen

935
01:03:05,949 --> 01:03:09,786
to try and clean the mess
of environmental destruction,

936
01:03:09,869 --> 01:03:13,164
social justice destruction,
that has been caused

937
01:03:13,248 --> 01:03:16,668
in the last 15 to 20 years
of its existence.

938
01:03:16,751 --> 01:03:19,504
Fast Fashion wants to produce fast,

939
01:03:19,587 --> 01:03:23,883
so the garment worker has
to produce faster and cheap.

940
01:03:23,967 --> 01:03:27,846
So, the garment worker
is the only point of the supply chain

941
01:03:27,929 --> 01:03:30,098
where the margins are squeezed.

942
01:03:30,181 --> 01:03:33,935
And you have these huge,
you know, companies

943
01:03:34,018 --> 01:03:38,273
going to the factory in Bangladesh,
place an order for 1.5 million jeans

944
01:03:38,356 --> 01:03:42,110
for, you know, 30 cents each,
50 cents each...

945
01:03:42,193 --> 01:03:44,612
How can you make it ethical?
I don't know.

946
01:03:46,197 --> 01:03:48,783
But also, from the consumer point of view,

947
01:03:48,867 --> 01:03:52,078
is it really democratic
to buy a T-shirt for $5

948
01:03:52,161 --> 01:03:54,497
or pay $20 for your jeans?

949
01:03:54,581 --> 01:03:57,959
Or are they taking us for a ride?

950
01:03:58,042 --> 01:04:01,671
Because they're making us believe
that we are rich or wealthy

951
01:04:01,754 --> 01:04:03,882
because we can buy a lot.

952
01:04:03,965 --> 01:04:06,509
But in fact they are making us poorer.

953
01:04:06,593 --> 01:04:09,721
And the only person
who is becoming richer

954
01:04:09,804 --> 01:04:12,432
is the owner of the Fast Fashion brand.

955
01:04:12,515 --> 01:04:14,893
So that makes me a little bit angry.

956
01:04:14,976 --> 01:04:16,978
[audience cheering and whistling]

957
01:04:22,817 --> 01:04:25,570
You spoke about a commitment

958
01:04:25,653 --> 01:04:31,576
to try and promise a basic living wage.

959
01:04:31,659 --> 01:04:33,286
What does that mean?

960
01:04:33,369 --> 01:04:37,498
Uh, how do you define
a fair living wage in Bangladesh?

961
01:04:37,582 --> 01:04:41,044
You know, uh, what does that mean?

962
01:04:41,127 --> 01:04:44,130
And to have a pilot project
in three factories,

963
01:04:44,214 --> 01:04:48,760
and by 2018, 15 percent of your factories
are going to have that?

964
01:04:48,843 --> 01:04:51,346
It's not good enough.
It's not.

965
01:04:51,429 --> 01:04:54,599
It's very clear for us
that what a living wage is,

966
01:04:54,682 --> 01:04:57,143
is something that the workers should say,

967
01:04:57,227 --> 01:05:01,481
and that's incorporated in our way
of working.

968
01:05:01,564 --> 01:05:02,941
[Firth]
How much is it?

969
01:05:03,024 --> 01:05:05,109
And that's not for us to say a sum,

970
01:05:05,193 --> 01:05:07,570
but we do an assessment all the time.

971
01:05:07,654 --> 01:05:08,780
How much is it?

972
01:05:08,863 --> 01:05:13,701
And to make sure that it covers
the basic needs of the workers.

973
01:05:13,785 --> 01:05:16,871
I can show you that later on.

974
01:05:16,955 --> 01:05:19,499
H&M has mastered the model
of Fast Fashion,

975
01:05:19,582 --> 01:05:23,002
becoming the second largest
clothing corporation in history.

976
01:05:23,086 --> 01:05:26,673
With annual revenue
of more than $18 billion,

977
01:05:26,756 --> 01:05:29,175
they are now one
of the largest producers of clothing

978
01:05:29,259 --> 01:05:31,594
in both Bangladesh and Cambodia.

979
01:05:31,970 --> 01:05:35,056
Sadly, along with every other
major retailer I asked,

980
01:05:35,139 --> 01:05:38,810
they declined
all interview requests for this film.

981
01:05:48,820 --> 01:05:50,071
[crowd cheering]

982
01:05:50,154 --> 01:05:52,156
[man yelling in foreign language]

983
01:05:53,575 --> 01:05:56,286
In Cambodia,
garment workers have had enough.

984
01:05:56,369 --> 01:05:57,871
Recently taking to the streets

985
01:05:57,954 --> 01:06:00,915
to demand a minimum wage
increase in the country.

986
01:06:06,212 --> 01:06:09,841
As protests continued, workers were met
with violent crackdowns,

987
01:06:09,924 --> 01:06:13,511
as police began to open fire
with live rounds.

988
01:06:13,595 --> 01:06:15,722
[yelling in foreign language]

989
01:06:15,805 --> 01:06:17,891
[wailing]

990
01:06:17,974 --> 01:06:20,393
[crowd clamoring]
[car horns honking]

991
01:06:25,773 --> 01:06:27,609
[gunfire]

992
01:06:33,281 --> 01:06:35,867
[man] A woman has been killed
and several people injured

993
01:06:35,950 --> 01:06:38,077
in clashes between clothes factory workers

994
01:06:38,161 --> 01:06:40,413
and riot police in Cambodia.

995
01:06:41,247 --> 01:06:42,916
[gunfire]

996
01:06:46,336 --> 01:06:48,213
[crowd clamoring]

997
01:07:03,228 --> 01:07:05,230
[speaking in foreign language]

998
01:07:13,446 --> 01:07:17,825
For two days, Cambodia was a battleground.

999
01:07:17,909 --> 01:07:19,827
The city of Phnom Penh.

1000
01:07:19,911 --> 01:07:24,165
The police, the paratroopers
were brought in

1001
01:07:24,249 --> 01:07:28,545
as if there were war
on the streets of Phnom Penh.

1002
01:07:28,628 --> 01:07:32,924
Why? Because workers
in the textile industry

1003
01:07:33,007 --> 01:07:34,634
continued to demand

1004
01:07:34,717 --> 01:07:37,637
a minimum wage of at least $160.

1005
01:07:41,140 --> 01:07:43,142
[woman speaking in foreign language]

1006
01:08:15,842 --> 01:08:21,890
[man] Today is the, uh,
funeral of a factory worker.

1007
01:08:21,973 --> 01:08:25,685
He was beaten to death.

1008
01:08:25,768 --> 01:08:32,025
He had, uh, suffered a lot
before his death this morning.

1009
01:08:32,108 --> 01:08:35,945
And he had done nothing wrong.

1010
01:08:36,029 --> 01:08:40,074
He, among his, uh, fellow workers,

1011
01:08:40,992 --> 01:08:44,954
wanted to have better living conditions.

1012
01:08:45,038 --> 01:08:47,040
[chanting in foreign language]

1013
01:09:05,642 --> 01:09:07,644
[chanting continues]

1014
01:09:11,189 --> 01:09:14,859
We will continue his fight

1015
01:09:15,735 --> 01:09:19,822
so that all Cambodian workers

1016
01:09:20,782 --> 01:09:23,952
will have decent living conditions.

1017
01:09:25,286 --> 01:09:26,788
[interviewer]
Thank you, sir.

1018
01:09:35,463 --> 01:09:38,675
[narrator] The Cambodian government,
like other developing countries

1019
01:09:38,758 --> 01:09:42,387
are desperate for the business
that multinational retailers bring.

1020
01:09:42,971 --> 01:09:45,139
Because of the constant threat
that these brands

1021
01:09:45,223 --> 01:09:47,767
will relocate production
to other low-cost countries,

1022
01:09:47,851 --> 01:09:49,853
the government holds down wages,

1023
01:09:49,936 --> 01:09:53,106
routinely avoiding enforcement
of local labor laws.

1024
01:09:53,189 --> 01:09:56,359
But because the major brands
do not officially employ the workers,

1025
01:09:56,442 --> 01:09:59,112
or own any of the factories
they produce in,

1026
01:09:59,195 --> 01:10:01,155
they're able to profit hugely,

1027
01:10:01,239 --> 01:10:03,616
all while remaining free
of responsibility

1028
01:10:03,700 --> 01:10:06,995
for the effects of poverty wages,
factory disasters,

1029
01:10:07,078 --> 01:10:10,331
and the ongoing violent treatment
of workers.

1030
01:10:10,415 --> 01:10:12,625
The whole system begins to feel

1031
01:10:12,709 --> 01:10:14,627
like a perfectly engineered nightmare

1032
01:10:14,711 --> 01:10:17,338
for the workers trapped inside of it.

1033
01:10:19,549 --> 01:10:24,053
[Mu] You cannot fool us,
and exploit our human resources,

1034
01:10:24,137 --> 01:10:25,805
exploit our workers.

1035
01:10:25,889 --> 01:10:28,391
The workers will continue to rise up.

1036
01:10:28,725 --> 01:10:32,061
I call on the international brands

1037
01:10:32,520 --> 01:10:38,151
to put that struggle into dollars,

1038
01:10:38,234 --> 01:10:41,029
into pounds, into Euros.

1039
01:10:41,821 --> 01:10:45,658
It translates into human capital.

1040
01:10:45,742 --> 01:10:49,954
It translates into social responsibility

1041
01:10:50,038 --> 01:10:51,789
of these big corporations.

1042
01:10:51,873 --> 01:10:55,001
It translates into economic justice.

1043
01:10:55,084 --> 01:10:58,630
When everything is concentrated
on making profits

1044
01:10:58,713 --> 01:11:00,298
for the big corporations,

1045
01:11:00,381 --> 01:11:02,050
what you see is that human rights,

1046
01:11:02,133 --> 01:11:05,678
the environment, workers' rights
get lost all together.

1047
01:11:05,762 --> 01:11:08,556
You see that workers
are increasingly exploited

1048
01:11:08,640 --> 01:11:12,268
because the price of everything
is pushed down and down and down,

1049
01:11:12,352 --> 01:11:16,105
just to satisfy this impulse
to accumulate capital.

1050
01:11:16,189 --> 01:11:18,233
And that's profoundly problematic,

1051
01:11:18,316 --> 01:11:21,027
'cause it leads
to the mass impoverishment

1052
01:11:21,110 --> 01:11:24,322
of hundreds of millions of people
around the world.

1053
01:11:25,740 --> 01:11:29,494
[woman] If you write to these companies,
they'll send you their code of conduct.

1054
01:11:29,577 --> 01:11:33,915
And it's beautiful, and it says,
"Oh, yes, we take responsibility

1055
01:11:33,998 --> 01:11:36,709
for the conditions under which
our product is made,

1056
01:11:36,793 --> 01:11:38,503
you know, the product that you buy.

1057
01:11:38,586 --> 01:11:40,296
All the factories where we produce,

1058
01:11:40,380 --> 01:11:43,925
we require them to respect
the minimum-wage laws,

1059
01:11:44,008 --> 01:11:46,427
you know,
all of the laws of the country,

1060
01:11:46,511 --> 01:11:49,931
to respect women, not to hire children,

1061
01:11:50,014 --> 01:11:52,559
uh, no forced labor,

1062
01:11:52,642 --> 01:11:56,896
um, no excessive overtime hours,"
all that stuff.

1063
01:11:56,980 --> 01:11:58,231
Um...

1064
01:11:58,314 --> 01:12:02,986
But when we submitted a bill
in Congress a few years ago,

1065
01:12:03,069 --> 01:12:05,530
or worked with people to do that,

1066
01:12:05,613 --> 01:12:10,076
we called it "The Decent Working
Conditions and Fair Competition Act,"

1067
01:12:10,159 --> 01:12:12,662
the companies responded in one voice,

1068
01:12:12,745 --> 01:12:15,498
"Oh, no. That would be
an impediment to free trade.

1069
01:12:15,582 --> 01:12:19,627
We can't have rules.
We can't have that."

1070
01:12:19,711 --> 01:12:22,922
They want to keep it
with voluntary codes of conduct.

1071
01:12:23,006 --> 01:12:26,134
You know, they've fought for
and they've won laws

1072
01:12:26,217 --> 01:12:29,971
to protect their stuff
and their interests,

1073
01:12:30,054 --> 01:12:31,639
but what about the workers?

1074
01:12:31,723 --> 01:12:34,267
The workers are left
with voluntary codes of conduct.

1075
01:12:34,350 --> 01:12:38,771
And what we see,
in case, after case, after case,

1076
01:12:38,855 --> 01:12:40,857
is that those voluntary codes of conduct

1077
01:12:40,940 --> 01:12:43,484
are not worth the paper
that they're written on.

1078
01:12:43,568 --> 01:12:46,863
We need to acknowledge,
particularly in the fashion industry,

1079
01:12:46,946 --> 01:12:50,992
that human capital is part
of this miraculous formula.

1080
01:12:51,743 --> 01:12:55,163
Without human capital,
without cheap labor,

1081
01:12:55,246 --> 01:12:57,207
cheap female labor,

1082
01:12:57,290 --> 01:13:00,752
it would not be generating
the profits that it is.

1083
01:13:01,377 --> 01:13:04,589
That needs to be acknowledged,
it needs to be dealt with,

1084
01:13:04,672 --> 01:13:08,343
and those people need to be
rewarded instead of exploited.

1085
01:13:08,426 --> 01:13:10,094
Where is their piece of the pie?

1086
01:13:10,178 --> 01:13:12,388
That's what we constantly
have to ask ourselves.

1087
01:13:12,472 --> 01:13:16,518
Are those buyers immoral?
Or they just don't--? Or are they amoral?

1088
01:13:16,601 --> 01:13:19,729
The system they're working for
and the system that allows companies

1089
01:13:19,812 --> 01:13:21,022
to do this is amoral.

1090
01:13:21,105 --> 01:13:23,858
The individuals concerned
are simply products of that system

1091
01:13:23,942 --> 01:13:26,569
and having to drive it through
to its logical conclusion.

1092
01:13:26,653 --> 01:13:29,989
What we need to do is change the way
those companies operate.

1093
01:13:30,698 --> 01:13:33,409
Operating within a system
that only measures profit,

1094
01:13:33,493 --> 01:13:35,912
companies have little incentive
to do anything

1095
01:13:35,995 --> 01:13:39,123
other than to make this quarter
better than the last.

1096
01:13:39,207 --> 01:13:42,252
No matter what damage
is caused along the way.

1097
01:13:42,335 --> 01:13:45,129
As corporations that make up
the global fashion industry,

1098
01:13:45,213 --> 01:13:47,674
major brands, as well as seed
and chemical companies,

1099
01:13:47,757 --> 01:13:51,803
are growing today to reach
unprecedented global size and power.

1100
01:13:51,886 --> 01:13:55,515
This mandate for profit at all cost
is beginning to stand

1101
01:13:55,598 --> 01:13:58,852
in direct opposition
to the values that we share.

1102
01:13:59,936 --> 01:14:01,521
Richard Wolff is an economist,

1103
01:14:01,604 --> 01:14:05,024
who after graduating from Harvard,
Stanford and Yale,

1104
01:14:05,108 --> 01:14:09,320
became convinced that the real problem
is within this system itself.

1105
01:14:09,404 --> 01:14:13,324
So, America became a peculiar country.

1106
01:14:13,408 --> 01:14:16,536
You could criticize the education system
to make the schools better.

1107
01:14:16,619 --> 01:14:20,623
You could criticize the transportation
system to make that work better.

1108
01:14:20,707 --> 01:14:23,751
But you couldn't criticize
the economic system.

1109
01:14:23,835 --> 01:14:25,962
That got a free pass.

1110
01:14:26,045 --> 01:14:27,672
You couldn't criticize, just--

1111
01:14:27,755 --> 01:14:30,717
And if you don't criticize something
for 50 years,

1112
01:14:30,800 --> 01:14:33,595
it rots, it goes to seed.

1113
01:14:33,678 --> 01:14:35,555
One of the ways a healthy society works

1114
01:14:35,638 --> 01:14:39,642
is it subjects its component systems
to criticism,

1115
01:14:39,726 --> 01:14:42,270
so that we can debate it,
and hopefully fix it,

1116
01:14:42,353 --> 01:14:44,272
or improve it or do better.

1117
01:14:44,355 --> 01:14:47,066
Capitalism couldn't be questioned.

1118
01:14:47,150 --> 01:14:48,318
Capitalism is the reason

1119
01:14:48,401 --> 01:14:51,154
the fashion industry looks
as it does today.

1120
01:14:51,237 --> 01:14:54,991
It's the reason why workers
in Bangladesh are paid so little.

1121
01:14:55,074 --> 01:14:57,869
Because if you're operating
in a capitalist system,

1122
01:14:57,952 --> 01:15:00,997
the main thing you have to do
is create profit

1123
01:15:01,080 --> 01:15:04,542
and you have to create more profit
than your competitors.

1124
01:15:04,626 --> 01:15:06,628
And this is what drives companies

1125
01:15:06,711 --> 01:15:09,714
to push wages down and down and down.

1126
01:15:09,797 --> 01:15:13,885
But companies don't go--
Like fashion retailers

1127
01:15:13,968 --> 01:15:18,640
don't go to places like Bangladesh,
for any other reason except

1128
01:15:18,723 --> 01:15:21,184
they can get the cheapest labor possible.

1129
01:15:21,267 --> 01:15:23,853
There's no collective rights
in Bangladesh,

1130
01:15:23,937 --> 01:15:25,647
there's no trade union rights,

1131
01:15:25,730 --> 01:15:27,690
there's a very, very low minimum wage,

1132
01:15:27,774 --> 01:15:30,693
there's no, like, maternity benefits,
there's no pensions,

1133
01:15:30,777 --> 01:15:33,363
that is why the fashion industry
is in Bangladesh

1134
01:15:33,446 --> 01:15:36,366
because it can reap the biggest profits
out of those people

1135
01:15:36,449 --> 01:15:38,493
that are making the clothes for them.

1136
01:15:38,576 --> 01:15:41,829
Before you can solve a problem,
you have to admit you got one

1137
01:15:41,913 --> 01:15:44,374
and before we're gonna fix
an economic system

1138
01:15:44,457 --> 01:15:47,418
that's working this way,
and producing such tensions

1139
01:15:47,502 --> 01:15:51,256
and inequalities and strains
on our community,

1140
01:15:51,339 --> 01:15:55,176
we have to face the real scope
of the problem we have

1141
01:15:55,260 --> 01:15:58,054
and that's with the system as a whole.

1142
01:15:58,137 --> 01:15:59,430
And at the very least,

1143
01:15:59,514 --> 01:16:02,141
we have to open up
a national debate about it,

1144
01:16:02,225 --> 01:16:05,728
and at the most, I think
we have to think long and hard

1145
01:16:05,812 --> 01:16:08,314
about alternative systems
that might work better.

1146
01:16:08,398 --> 01:16:11,943
[Hilary] For the environment,
the great threat is that capital

1147
01:16:12,026 --> 01:16:16,322
must continue to expand infinitely
in order to survive.

1148
01:16:16,406 --> 01:16:20,201
It can't have any limits
on its expansion and its growth.

1149
01:16:20,285 --> 01:16:22,871
The natural world
clearly does have limits.

1150
01:16:22,954 --> 01:16:26,541
There are very defined limits
to how much the world can sustain

1151
01:16:26,624 --> 01:16:29,043
in terms of production,
in terms of trade,

1152
01:16:29,127 --> 01:16:31,462
in terms of transport and distribution.

1153
01:16:31,546 --> 01:16:34,090
And it's quite clear
that we've already overstepped

1154
01:16:34,174 --> 01:16:37,260
a lot of those limits, which is why
you're seeing such stress

1155
01:16:37,343 --> 01:16:39,846
in the natural world at the moment.

1156
01:16:39,929 --> 01:16:43,391
[Hoskins] The system we live in isn't one
that most people want to live in.

1157
01:16:43,474 --> 01:16:46,519
I think it's a system that makes
most people very unhappy,

1158
01:16:46,603 --> 01:16:49,939
and I don't think people want to live
on a slowly dying planet

1159
01:16:50,023 --> 01:16:52,650
or to be exploiting, um, you know,
their neighbors.

1160
01:16:52,734 --> 01:16:57,030
So, I think we need
huge systemic change.

1161
01:16:57,113 --> 01:16:59,699
[Wolff]
If you don't change the system,

1162
01:16:59,782 --> 01:17:02,327
you're leaving intact

1163
01:17:02,410 --> 01:17:05,747
the decision-making of these enterprises,

1164
01:17:05,830 --> 01:17:09,083
which means a small group
of executives and shareholders

1165
01:17:09,167 --> 01:17:11,461
are gonna be working
in the same system,

1166
01:17:11,544 --> 01:17:14,589
subject to the same pattern
of rewards and punishments,

1167
01:17:14,672 --> 01:17:18,218
which will sooner or later
make them reimpose,

1168
01:17:18,301 --> 01:17:19,928
there or elsewhere,

1169
01:17:20,011 --> 01:17:22,180
the very conditions
you're fighting against.

1170
01:17:22,263 --> 01:17:26,142
So, stop this stuff about improving
their conditions,

1171
01:17:26,226 --> 01:17:29,896
deal with the system,
or else you're not serious.

1172
01:17:29,979 --> 01:17:33,399
[Kasser] Our economic system
is one of consumer capitalism,

1173
01:17:33,483 --> 01:17:37,987
and that's why the government needs
to have consumption

1174
01:17:38,071 --> 01:17:40,031
at very high levels, um,

1175
01:17:40,114 --> 01:17:42,075
and why, of course, the corporations do,

1176
01:17:42,158 --> 01:17:45,203
and why at some level
most people then buy into it.

1177
01:17:45,286 --> 01:17:48,831
I can't tell you the number of people
I talked to who say, "Well,

1178
01:17:48,915 --> 01:17:52,877
but if we became less materialistic
our economy would tank."

1179
01:17:52,961 --> 01:17:57,966
Well, they're right in some level,
because our economy is

1180
01:17:58,049 --> 01:18:03,513
based on materialism,
it's based on these kinds of values.

1181
01:18:03,596 --> 01:18:06,224
That's what it needs
in order to survive.

1182
01:18:06,307 --> 01:18:08,768
That's part of the fuel that it needs.

1183
01:18:09,394 --> 01:18:11,938
The problem is that comes
at a really high price.

1184
01:18:12,021 --> 01:18:15,358
♪ Black Friday's here
Can we go please? ♪

1185
01:18:15,441 --> 01:18:18,403
♪ Go, go, go, go, go
Shop, shop, shop, shop ♪

1186
01:18:18,486 --> 01:18:19,863
Black Friday shopping mania

1187
01:18:19,946 --> 01:18:22,240
still playing out tonight
at malls across America.

1188
01:18:22,323 --> 01:18:24,450
In some places across
this country tonight,

1189
01:18:24,534 --> 01:18:25,910
it's as if someone announced

1190
01:18:25,994 --> 01:18:27,871
we're in danger of running out of stuff,

1191
01:18:27,954 --> 01:18:30,707
and those who need stuff
had better go out and buy it now

1192
01:18:30,790 --> 01:18:32,375
'cause it's going away forever.

1193
01:18:32,458 --> 01:18:35,503
[woman] Walmart, doing more
than 10 million transactions

1194
01:18:35,587 --> 01:18:37,714
in the first four hours of the frenzy.

1195
01:18:37,797 --> 01:18:43,094
A record 15,000 people at Macy's
in New York City, shoppers hung tough.

1196
01:18:43,178 --> 01:18:46,764
Black Friday will be the single
largest day of the retail year.

1197
01:18:46,848 --> 01:18:50,393
Certainly in the case of Macy's,
we'll do more business on this day

1198
01:18:50,476 --> 01:18:53,021
than on any other, uh, day of the year.

1199
01:18:53,104 --> 01:18:58,109
Nation, this orgy of Christmas shopping
proves America is back!

1200
01:18:58,193 --> 01:18:59,986
We are once again... Yes!

1201
01:19:00,069 --> 01:19:01,571
[audience cheering]

1202
01:19:01,654 --> 01:19:03,156
Oh, yes!

1203
01:19:03,865 --> 01:19:07,869
We are once again
spending money we don't have

1204
01:19:07,952 --> 01:19:10,830
on things we don't need
to give to people we don't like.

1205
01:19:10,914 --> 01:19:12,916
[audience cheering]

1206
01:19:12,999 --> 01:19:14,000
Yeah.

1207
01:19:14,083 --> 01:19:18,713
[chanting]
U.S.A.! U.S.A.! U.S.A.!

1208
01:19:19,797 --> 01:19:21,508
[woman screaming]

1209
01:19:24,469 --> 01:19:25,803
[man]
Oh, my God!

1210
01:19:36,564 --> 01:19:38,566
[inaudible dialogue]

1211
01:20:26,114 --> 01:20:28,116
[crowd clamoring]

1212
01:21:07,280 --> 01:21:09,324
[speaking in foreign language]

1213
01:21:25,548 --> 01:21:27,425
[speaking in foreign language]

1214
01:21:31,262 --> 01:21:33,139
[Akhter speaking in foreign language]

1215
01:22:52,010 --> 01:22:56,014
[Pepper] I grew up on a farm,
married a guy that grew up on a farm,

1216
01:22:56,097 --> 01:22:59,684
and, uh, those of us living
on the farm live there.

1217
01:22:59,767 --> 01:23:04,230
It needs to be safe for us, too.
The new chemicals that are coming out,

1218
01:23:04,314 --> 01:23:08,902
and the intensity of the use,
was just continuing to increase.

1219
01:23:08,985 --> 01:23:13,323
And, um, then in 2005,

1220
01:23:13,781 --> 01:23:15,158
um...

1221
01:23:15,241 --> 01:23:18,077
Terry started having some loss
of fine motor skills,

1222
01:23:18,161 --> 01:23:20,288
and this and that,
and come to find out

1223
01:23:20,371 --> 01:23:24,083
he had a glioblastoma multiforme,
Stage 4 brain tumor,

1224
01:23:25,126 --> 01:23:28,796
and, uh, at the prime age
of 47 years old.

1225
01:23:29,339 --> 01:23:31,925
And, uh, he died at the age of 50.

1226
01:23:32,008 --> 01:23:34,802
They gave us six months,
we had two-and-a-half years,

1227
01:23:34,886 --> 01:23:38,056
and the brain surgeon
that worked on him--

1228
01:23:38,139 --> 01:23:44,145
Lubbock has got huge cancer clinics
and a medical hub.

1229
01:23:44,229 --> 01:23:47,482
We didn't have to go someplace else
to have a brain tumor surgery.

1230
01:23:47,565 --> 01:23:51,152
We were able to stay right here
because he does so many of them.

1231
01:23:51,236 --> 01:23:55,490
He said that these kinds of tumors
are found in men, aged 45-65,

1232
01:23:55,573 --> 01:24:00,495
that work in the agricultural industry
or the oil field.

1233
01:24:00,578 --> 01:24:03,706
And so while I don't have a smoking gun
and the blood tests that say

1234
01:24:03,790 --> 01:24:08,878
the use of, uh, cotton chemicals,
agricultural chemicals,

1235
01:24:08,962 --> 01:24:11,548
directly led to my husband's death,

1236
01:24:11,631 --> 01:24:14,592
there's just too many linkages
with his father's death.

1237
01:24:14,676 --> 01:24:16,678
Growing up
on a chemically-intensive farm,

1238
01:24:16,761 --> 01:24:19,597
we live in the middle
of 3.6 million acres of cotton

1239
01:24:19,681 --> 01:24:21,391
that use a lot of chemicals.

1240
01:24:21,474 --> 01:24:24,853
And so, at that point in time,

1241
01:24:24,936 --> 01:24:27,647
organic was no longer important to me,

1242
01:24:28,439 --> 01:24:30,024
it was imperative.

1243
01:24:30,108 --> 01:24:32,235
It's imperative
that we change agriculture.

1244
01:24:32,318 --> 01:24:35,864
It's imperative, if we're talking
about the long-term sustainability

1245
01:24:35,947 --> 01:24:38,825
and well-being
of our lives on this planet

1246
01:24:38,908 --> 01:24:40,743
and our children's lives on the planet,

1247
01:24:40,827 --> 01:24:43,580
that we have to change.

1248
01:25:05,685 --> 01:25:08,062
[Minney] This is the beginning
of a turning point

1249
01:25:08,146 --> 01:25:11,065
not just for, you know,
a responsible way of doing fashion,

1250
01:25:11,149 --> 01:25:14,861
but for a new way of doing capitalism,
for a new way of doing economics.

1251
01:25:15,486 --> 01:25:20,450
I'm sure that we will see
a significant change

1252
01:25:20,533 --> 01:25:22,285
over the next ten years.

1253
01:25:22,368 --> 01:25:25,413
Um, whether it's in time or not
is another question.

1254
01:25:27,582 --> 01:25:29,167
[Kasser]
Martin Luther King Jr.,

1255
01:25:29,250 --> 01:25:31,461
at a speech in a Brooklyn church,
he said

1256
01:25:31,544 --> 01:25:35,256
that what America needed was
a revolution of values.

1257
01:25:35,340 --> 01:25:38,426
It needed to stop
treating people like things.

1258
01:25:38,510 --> 01:25:41,513
It needed to stop treating
people in ways

1259
01:25:41,596 --> 01:25:43,348
that were just about profit.

1260
01:25:43,431 --> 01:25:47,560
But instead to treat people
in a real and human way.

1261
01:25:48,228 --> 01:25:51,397
[Wolff] My God,
we can do better than this.

1262
01:25:51,481 --> 01:25:56,653
If what we want is to spread,
as I would argue we do,

1263
01:25:56,736 --> 01:26:00,823
spread industry around the world,
not concentrated in one place.

1264
01:26:00,907 --> 01:26:04,994
Let the benefits be shared globally.

1265
01:26:05,078 --> 01:26:10,667
Then let's do that in an orderly,
reasonable, careful way.

1266
01:26:10,750 --> 01:26:13,878
[Shiva] We need to recognize
that capital is just money.

1267
01:26:13,962 --> 01:26:15,547
Money is a means,

1268
01:26:15,630 --> 01:26:18,508
and people should be accountable
for how it's used.

1269
01:26:18,591 --> 01:26:23,555
We need to celebrate the creative power
of human beings.

1270
01:26:23,638 --> 01:26:27,559
And we need to talk of creative work,
we must stop talking about labor.

1271
01:26:27,642 --> 01:26:32,188
We need to look at the land
as not a commodity,

1272
01:26:32,689 --> 01:26:34,983
to be speculated on and traded,

1273
01:26:35,066 --> 01:26:38,862
but as the very basis of our life,
as Mother Earth.

1274
01:26:38,945 --> 01:26:42,156
[Siegle] You change all consumers
into activists,

1275
01:26:42,240 --> 01:26:44,284
all consumers asking ethical questions,

1276
01:26:44,367 --> 01:26:47,704
all consumers asking
quite simple questions about

1277
01:26:47,787 --> 01:26:49,414
where their clothes are from,

1278
01:26:49,497 --> 01:26:53,501
all consumers saying, "I'm sorry,
it's not acceptable for someone to die

1279
01:26:53,585 --> 01:26:55,170
in the course of a working day."

1280
01:26:55,253 --> 01:26:58,631
We can't just roll over and say,
"Yes, have it. Do what you like."

1281
01:26:58,715 --> 01:27:01,134
It's too important,
it's too significant an industry.

1282
01:27:01,217 --> 01:27:05,722
It has too much impact and effect
on millions of people worldwide

1283
01:27:05,805 --> 01:27:07,724
and common resources.

1284
01:27:13,730 --> 01:27:16,065
[narrator] Will we continue
to search for happiness

1285
01:27:16,149 --> 01:27:18,193
in the consumption of things?

1286
01:27:18,985 --> 01:27:22,572
Will we be satisfied with a system
that makes us feel rich,

1287
01:27:22,655 --> 01:27:25,658
while leaving our world
so desperately poor?

1288
01:27:25,742 --> 01:27:27,535
Will we continue to turn a blind eye

1289
01:27:27,619 --> 01:27:30,038
to the lives of those behind our clothes?

1290
01:27:30,121 --> 01:27:33,625
Or will this be a turning point,
a new chapter in our story,

1291
01:27:33,708 --> 01:27:37,045
when together,
we begin to make a real change,

1292
01:27:37,128 --> 01:27:42,133
as we remember that everything we wear
was touched by human hands?

1293
01:27:42,717 --> 01:27:45,678
In the midst of all the challenges
facing us today,

1294
01:27:45,762 --> 01:27:47,889
for all the problems
that feel bigger than us

1295
01:27:47,972 --> 01:27:49,807
and beyond our control,

1296
01:27:49,891 --> 01:27:51,809
maybe we could start here

1297
01:27:51,893 --> 01:27:53,520
with clothing.

1298
01:27:54,305 --> 01:28:00,606
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